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I think you left off the front cover AJ812108 and Fuel line-hose C2Z30691 as those were replaced on my repair.
I have the front cover, though the name is different (it’s called the lower timing cover on my list).
My independent guy suggested not replacing the fuel lines as they are reusable (despite Jaguar’s recommendation to replace them). He said when you are doing the full replacement of all the timing stuff, there are several fuel lines that are recommended for replacement but it would cost a heck of a lot and he has never seen failure of a reused fuel line.
The supercharger gasket is the right number.The Land rover fuel injector seal kit is the same LR037089. The WSS M2C947 oil speck has been superseded by ford to WSS M2 C945B1. Now Amsoil list an signature oil for the Jag 0w30, Also Mobile1 0w30. Make shure you get the latest tensioner made in Germany get them from Land Rover or Jag not from Ebay.
Thanks, I’ll add the injector seal kit to the list.
So I don’t assume incorrectly, could you please let me know if these are replacing specific part numbers that are already on my list, or are they additional? Thanks
Actually I just realized that part number you listed is for the hose from the throttle body to the heater inlet that runs under the supercharger so you have the correct part number listed. The two I listed are for updating to the new style water pump.
Last edited by RoketRdr; May 29, 2019 at 03:52 PM.
Also thanks XJsss for pointing out the brake booster vacuum pump on your invoice. I asked my independent shop where it was located on my car, and he showed me one on a torn-down Landrover. It was low down on the front of the car, attached to the crankshaft. Without any further prompting he said,
“The problem with these are they leak oil and then can seize up. They are mechanical pumps (not electric) and are driven by the crankshaft. One customer’s seized pump damaged their crankshaft, which resulted in a very large repair. I would recommend replacing it around 100k miles. I replaced it on my own Landrover already.”
So I’m going to add this to my preventative repair list too. He said there would be no additional labor (yay!).
Also I am working on a revised parts list (some numbers were incorrect for my car). I will post all the latest part numbers when I get it finalized.
Nedoerr the vacuum pump is driven by a slot in the high presser fuel pump jack shaft ,witch is chain driven from the crank To replace the chain or shaft the oil pan has to be removed, or the motor has to come out.I have read about oil leaking but not of seizing. I changed my drive belts at the same time as i changed timing chain.
Thanks cwalkey for the more detailed explanation. He said the pump seizure only happened with one customer, so maybe not too common. The oil leak did sound pretty common though.
Have you replaced yours yet? What symptoms would drive you to replace it? I haven’t been looking for small amounts of oil unless they are on my driveway. Guess mine will be replaced regardless.
Nedoerr The reason for changing is if it leaked oil, or failed to make vacuum. This 5.0 motor is costly beast. It looks like you have to change every thing to prevent a catastrophic engine failure. You have to check oil levels every week if you run low it could be a big problem.
I’ve quite a few people say the same thing, but I just thought no extra labor just pay for the part. Also are all 3 upper and lower timing covers supposed to be replaced or just the lower one?
So first off the disclaimer that I’m not a mechanic, but I have spent a bit of time reading up on this repair. That being said, this is my best understanding of the repair.
I think there is extra labor if you change the chains because the timing has to be redone and they take more of the car apart. XJsss invoice is good example if you don’t want to do the timing chain. Though I think the book hours should be shorter than quoted. I’ll ask my indie when I pick up the car how much labor just for the tensioners/ guides using zip tie method. I think they just take off the lower cover, zip tie the chain in position and then replace the tensioners/guides.
But as you want to do the supercharger too, you might want to do the full job with chain as you’re already digging in from the top. Therefore the difference in labor goes down. It also gives you access to lots of other wear and tear items. For example I decided to swap out all fuel injectors, some coolant hoses (including the infamous one that runs under the supercharger), valve covers with PCV, and supercharger nose. I recently did the water pump, spark plugs, and belts, but you can add those to the list if you haven’t done so already. The upper valve covers don’t need to be replaced if you do the guides/tensioners only. If you do the chains too, then you need to replace all valve cover gaskets. I found it easier to buy the whole valve covers which include all the gaskets and the PCV. If you can figure out all the gaskets that are needed and buy them aftermarket, then that may be a better option for you.
Again I hope to provide an update next week after my car is returned to me.
So first off the disclaimer that I’m not a mechanic, but I have spent a bit of time reading up on this repair. That being said, this is my best understanding of the repair.
I think there is extra labor if you change the chains because the timing has to be redone and they take more of the car apart. XJsss invoice is good example if you don’t want to do the timing chain. Though I think the book hours should be shorter than quoted. I’ll ask my indie when I pick up the car how much labor just for the tensioners/ guides using zip tie method. I think they just take off the lower cover, zip tie the chain in position and then replace the tensioners/guides.
But as you want to do the supercharger too, you might want to do the full job with chain as you’re already digging in from the top. Therefore the difference in labor goes down. It also gives you access to lots of other wear and tear items. For example I decided to swap out all fuel injectors, some coolant hoses (including the infamous one that runs under the supercharger), valve covers with PCV, and supercharger nose. I recently did the water pump, spark plugs, and belts, but you can add those to the list if you haven’t done so already. The upper valve covers don’t need to be replaced if you do the guides/tensioners only. If you do the chains too, then you need to replace all valve cover gaskets. I found it easier to buy the whole valve covers which include all the gaskets and the PCV. If you can figure out all the gaskets that are needed and buy them aftermarket, then that may be a better option for you.
Again I hope to provide an update next week after my car is returned to me.
All the best.
Thank you, I got a quote from my mechanic. Just labor is $2030 for the chains, guides, and tensioners. I’m just a mess with the parts lol. It seems like parts are going to cost me $1k or more. I was anticipating around $500-$600 for guides, tensioners, and chains. Now seeing this thread in detail seems like I need to add valve covers, fuel injector seal kit, coolant hoses, gaskets, and maybe even fuel hoses. This seems way more than $1k in parts
Edit
Is the fuel injector seal kit required if I’m not replacing the fuel injectors? Also you listed AJ811948 for Supercharger plenum gasket. However on the parts diagram online I see another one that’s $80 more expensive. The part number for that is AJ813939. Which one is required? Are the upper timing covers required as well?
Last edited by Supercharged Jag; Jul 9, 2019 at 09:39 PM.
You will need eight of the fuel injector seal kits if you don’t want to replace the fuel injectors (~$18 a piece at atlantic British). These include two seals and a retaining clip. If you do replace the fuel injectors (~$90 a piece for the Landrover ones) they come with the seals and only need the retaining clips (~$5 per clip on eBay). I dont have the part number for the retaining clips on hand. I can post those when I get back home.
Im not sure of the difference between the gaskets, I had mine confirmed for my VIN by a Jaguar parts department. Maybe someone else can comment. Visually they look the same IIRC.
I don’t think the upper timing covers need replacement as no one has ever posted a need to change them.
You will need eight of the fuel injector seal kits if you don’t want to replace the fuel injectors (~$18 a piece at atlantic British). These include two seals and a retaining clip. If you do replace the fuel injectors (~$90 a piece for the Landrover ones) they come with the seals and only need the retaining clips (~$5 per clip on eBay). I dont have the part number for the retaining clips on hand. I can post those when I get back home.
Im not sure of the difference between the gaskets, I had mine confirmed for my VIN by a Jaguar parts department. Maybe someone else can comment. Visually they look the same IIRC.
I don’t think the upper timing covers need replacement as no one has ever posted a need to change them.
All the best.
Well I found the injector seal kit for $50 for all 8 oem Jaguar part. As far as the gasket goes I’ll call a dealer and find out. Thank you
I got them off of eBay. This is the item number 293108388909. He only has one left (8x). I messaged him and confirmed twice that it would fit my car and there are 8 of them. So it’s legit
The top timing covers are reusable all you need is silicon The lower cover is reusable all so if you have the means to replace the front crank seal.There must be a short cut to replace the guides and chain with out removing injectors and vale covers, you have to lift the valve covers to remove the top front timing covers. There is room to lift theme up with out removing the injectors and slide out the front covers.You will not be able to replace the valve cover gaskets, so they might leak.
I agree that the oil leak concern is probably why the valve covers are taken off and the seals replaced. Valve covers are prone to leaking on their own, let alone moving them around.
I personally ended up using the opportunity to also replace 7 fuel injectors (one was already replaced a month ago). They are a major reason for rough idle and misfires anyway. I got each injector for ~$75-$80 then added the retainer clip ($35 for 8). Figured it was worth the cost. I got the injector seal package for the one reused injector (~$18, ouch).
Hopefully all this preventative maintenance will be worth it.
Okay, so here was my final parts list. Note I reused one fuel injector (it was only one month old) and replaced the other seven. That is why I have weird quantities of injectors/ seals/ clips. Hopefully I have the parts itemized under the correct category. Obviously there is some overlap, which is why all the jobs were done at once. Hope this is helpful.
Here is an image of one of my guide rails. Generally it looks like XJsss' photos. There shouldn't be a circular dent in this guide rail; all of that is damage. You can even see the metal burrs around the edge of the dent.
Here are my tensioners. Note how far out the tensioner pins are, suggesting I was getting near the end of their range.
