Thanks to you and Ed (below) for correcting me; it wasn't clear from Gaudin's website if the pads were per axle or per wheel. Regardless, the OEM parts are still very expensive compared to aftermarket parts And I said "at a miniumum", so that would apply to adding brake wear sensors if they were worn out. The point of my calculation was to determine how the dealer came up with a $1400 brake job and the answer was the really high cost of OEM parts.

I've had dealers do brake jobs who insisted on installing new wear sensors and rebuilding all the calipers "as a small extra cost just to be safe", even though they didn't appear to be leaking or sticking after 40,000+ miles. After all, the calipers could start to leak or stick at 43K miles so I can understand why a dealer would not want anything to come back to haunt them and also want to minimize their liability. Just like tire shops that insist on installing a new TPMS rebuild kit whenever you replace a tire, even if it was the OEM tire with non-repairable damage with less than 500 miles. Just because they remove the TPMS valve stem they insist on rebuilding it, regardless of age or miles. They want to avoid legal liability, and it's a small price for the customer to pay.

Do it yourself is the way to go. SAVE $$$$
Ed, of course, it will always be much cheaper to DIY with aftermarket parts. But many, if not most, of us who are now old farts and drive XJs are no longer shade tree mechanics and are at the stage of our lives where we can afford and prefer to pay someone else to skin their knuckles and get their hands dirty. So, for some of us, the extra cost is worth it. We drive an XJ, not a Prius.

Sure, I still do some work on my cars myself, but just for the fun of it. My last really fun project was installing White XKRs remote control convertible top kit on my XKR. See my post #153 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-109235/page8/ I've never done a brake job, and doubt that I want to start now.

Stuart

 

Ed, of course, it will always be much cheaper to DIY with aftermarket parts. But many, if not most, of us who are now old farts and drive XJs are no longer shade tree mechanics and are at the stage of our lives where we can afford and prefer to pay someone else to skin their knuckles and get their hands dirty. So, for some of us, the extra cost is worth it. We drive an XJ, not a Prius.

Sure, I still do some work on my cars myself, but just for the fun of it. My last really fun project was installing White XKRs remote control convertible top kit on my XKR. See my post #153 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-109235/page8/ I've never done a brake job, and doubt that I want to start now.

Stuart[/QUOTE]

Come on Stuart, you're not too old , this is fun knowing you're doing the job right. Some this "liability service" is excessive and unnecessary just to inflate your bill. In fact I just had negative service on my Suburban, where my wheels jazzed/scrathced up after a "free" tire rotation/balance and oil change at the largest Chevy dealer in Wisconsin.

It's easier that golfing 18 holes. Follow this. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...job-how-85582/With a compressor, a floor jack and simple had tools you can do it and with the money you save put on a set of Mina Stainless mufflers and light up the neighborhood. I know this is not for everyone but it's nice to know you can do it if you would like to try.

 

I guess I'm blessed as I have a great service adviser and tech team at my dealership that has never tried to oversell me. Also, my tire dealer that I have gone to for many years prides itself on doing things right the first time and not trying to oversell either for all 3 of my cars. BTW my tire dealer offers no charge balance and rotation for the life of the tires and has never tried to sell me replacement TPMS's and I have scuffed my wheels and they happily remounted the tires on a reconditioned wheel that I supply them. I have an extra front and rear wheel that I have reconditioned and are available as needed.

 

I will be doing the same thing as well to my XJL... I mean the brake dust it is out of control.

 

As an update, I finally had the ceramic brake pads and aftermarket caliper covers installed on my XJL and am so far am very pleased with the reduction in brake dust build-up.

Although not as significant as the ~ 90% reduction I achieved on my '09 Corvette with similar measures, I would "guesstimate" the reduction in brake dust deposits on the Jag wheels to be ~75%, still a tolerable level.

The "Claret" color caliper caliper covers are free of any Jaguar "Leaper" or inscription, and the "fake" bolts are black instead of silver, so their not as noticeable as those with silver bolts and other decorations.

The contrast of the Claret caliper covers with the XJs Metallic Caviar (Burgundy) body, although subtle, seems to me "just Right" for a luxury car, plus they do the job of covering the not very attractive brake calipers, and help keep down visible brake dust deposits on the wheels.

I didn't have the rotors turned down even though they had a small protruding ridge outside the pad wipe zones.

I haven't heard any brake noise, nor felt the slightest suggestion of rotor warping, but then again I don't drive this car on the Autobahn where triple speeds are common.

I prefer the brake feel and response over that provided by the original brake pads.

So, all in all, I'm very pleased and would recommend this "mod" to any XJ owner, at least those in the U.S.A.

 

I did all 4 wheels recently with Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic pads and Centric disks, all ordered from Rock Auto. I've had good luck with their products previously, 1000 miles later I'm happy with this setup. The reduction in brake dust from switching to ceramic is awesome - no more filthy wheels!

One warning. DO NOT buy Centric REAR rotors from RockAuto - they list the wrong part on their site, as indicated below.

 

John,

Would you please provide the source for your caliper covers at your convenience. Thanks.

- Mike D.

 

The covers are "MPG" brand, which I have used my '09 Corvette as well. They have been trouble free, and do seem to help minimize brake dust some, although I believe the ceramic brake pads are the biggest influence in this regard. Regardless they do cover the brake calipers themselves, which aren't really all that attractive, even when painted or dipped.

 

I just purchased a 2011 XJL with the 5.0 Supercharged (470hp). Back brakes are all new but the fronts have very little life remaining. Can someone tell me what tool I will need to removed the front caliper guide pins? Some say it's a 9mm hex and others say its a torx. Also, what size wrench will I need to remove the caliper brackets? Thanks, Tony

 

The front slide pins are 9mm hex. Rears are 7mm hex for reference.

The bracket bolts need a 15mm socket.
Replace the bolts or clean and use a suitable threadlock

The discs should be held on with captive washers to prevent them moving when the wheels are removed. They will be destroyed during removal. You don't strictly need to replace those but it is recommended.

 

Please view this link to my XF SC Brake job, Show photos of tools and sockets needed. You will need a long shaft Allen head socket. Changed to Ceramic Pads just because of the dust. Made a lot of difference reducing the ugly black dust on rims.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...job-how-85582/

 

All, doing some looking around, I found something pretty interesting. The rear brake pads for a standard XJ (that is what I was researching since that is what I have and I know the supercharged version may have a slightly different setup) are what I refer to as a 1095-series pad. This same pad is used on a large variety of vehicles (Volvo S40, Ford Fusion, Mazdas, etc). I guess my question comes down to the basic thing of if all of these vehicles use a pad that is built to the same size in all dimensions, why can't you get a pad from say a Ford Fusion and put it on the XJ? Sure there are different weights and power of the two vehicles which ultimately affects the requirements for the job needed for the pads to do. But, like in a lot of applications, the pad used may be way over rated for the intended application since it is something that is available and can be used over a large product line. Curious to see if anyone has any knowledge on why going to your local auto parts store and telling them that you have say a 2012 Ford Fusion and getting the rear pads for that where if you told them that you have a 2012 Jaguar XJ, they will tell you that they don't have anything (yet, they use the same size pad).

In case people are interested, the XJ uses an "ATF" size caliper for the rear of all models of Jaguars (XF, XFR, XJ, XJR, etc). I pulled this info from the EBC website.

I know that when you start looking at improving stopping distances, you can find some pretty expensive stuff (say EBC yellowstuff pads for example). These have a specific purpose (very spirited driving) which falls into a limited category. I am looking at simply taking a given manufacturer and why they may offer numerous listings/part numbers for what would appear to be the same pad. Looking to gain some knowledge and hopefully help others in their desire to find the best pad for their style of driving.

 

Hi guys, I'm changing the brakes on my 2011 X351, and on the rears at least, this will involve new rotors. Since I need to take off the caliper carriers to get the rotors off, I wanted to check to see if anyone on this forum knew the part number for new carrier bolts. Most of the online videos I've been watching detailing this process (on other Jaguars, unfortunately) mention that Jaguar suggests replacement of the caliper carrier bolts anytime they're removed, along with a new coating of threadlocker. If this is true, does anyone know the p/n of the carrier bolts that screw the carrier to the knuckle/hub? Thanks very much!

 

Parts schematics abound, as do dealers that sell OEM parts at a discount. These are two I have used:

https://www.jaguarlandroverrenoparts.com, or
https://oemdiscountcarparts.com

I just replaced my brakes, and did NOT replace bolts. Just cleaned and re-loctited them. So far, no issues, though some would argue that
"if Jaguar says . . .it is for a reason". Sometimes I am not sure the reason is anything more than Tata Motors' profitability, kind of like their elusive motor oil spec., but you'll have to decide that for yourself.

 

Thanks for that! The parts diagrams especially are super helpful. I suspect you're right about the mothership's desire for profitability, but at $1.46/bolt + shipping, I can live with it. $250/ea for rear rotors, however?! That seems a bit absurd for some dumb lumps of iron. I'll be putting on Centrics which seem much more reasonably priced. Paired with PosiQuiet ceramic pads, it seems to be a popular choice. Hopefully the set will be able to contend with 2+ tons of big English lady!

 

Hello again folks,
Would anyone with JTIS access be able to post the caliper carrier mounting bolt torque specs (15 mm bolts on my 2011 XJL) and whether or not they're different front to rear? I'd also be interested in the torque specs for the slide pins removed with a 7 mm allen bit. Thanks in advance!

EDIT: I have read Edobernig's 2004 XJ brake thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...23/#post409524 which specifies 135 lb*ft. However, I'm concerned that might be a typo given that I've seen 135 Nm listed in other places. Thanks again!

 

DiggityDog, the front bolts are torqued to 85 ft-lbs (115 Nm). The rears are torqued to 76 ft-lbs (103 Nm). This is per the Jaguar repair manual for your year XJ.

As for seeing the 135 ft-lbs for a 2004 XJ, that has nothing really to do with your car. Each application you have to factor in a lot of different stuff to determine what the final torque will be. So, while it may get you into the ballpark, I would not make that my source of information.

 

Thanks so much, Thermo, just the info I was looking for. Can I trouble you for where you were able to find a repair manual for my year, make, and model? It's actually frustrated me how my search for one has really turned up nothing in the way of an actual manual. Or is JTIS really all there is? Thanks again for your help! I can finish the job now!

 

Diggity, I was able to get a copy of the manual from a fellow member. The member knew that I would put it to good use and help out others with the info that is in it. If you do some looking online, they are available. Granted, they will normally set you back about $150-200. But, in my opinion, they are worth that much for the info that is in them.

 

There are a lot of similarities with the X250 e.g. engine so have a look at that but as Thermo says its best to check where you are not sure.