Yes the problem is the mounting duct/bracket/assembly for sure!
Looking forward to what you come up with too.
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If this would be for track use only project i would recommend to use something like this:
https://www.24mx.eu/product/twenty-h...pid-PM-0017567
And make simple shroud around it from PVC sheet warming it up with heatgun.
But it different story for road use. In case of accident if somebody get injured, the self made mods can turn very expensive...

 

That's a pretty cool Al. bracket!
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I’m trying to install this ZZP pump with their pigtail and I can’t seem to get the pump to kick on no matter how I wire it. When checking the plug for power, since my original pump is a two pin but I believe variable rate, I’m not getting anything on the meter.

Is there a way to check this thing is wired correctly before putting the bumper back on? I’m decent on mechanical but not so much on the electrical side.

Thanks!

 

Alright. Seems that the car MUST be running. But now I’ve got to figure out how to make sure she’s spinning the correct direction…

 

Alright—got the pump sorted. For anyone looking to put a ZZP charge air cooler pump in your car, here are a few lessons I learned along the way.


Prep;
I’ll assume if you’re tackling this job, you’re already comfortable pulling the bumper cover. Nothing else needs to come off.


Fitment;

This pump is not a direct drop-in replacement—at least, not on my 2015.

• The factory mounting uses rubber isolators: one around the pump body held by a single bolt at the top, and another odd-shaped rubber mount at the bottom that locks the pump housing to the radiator.
• Neither of these mounts fit the ZZP pump. There’s no easy way to reuse or adapt them.

On top of that, the coolant hose routing creates an issue:

• The factory hose runs L-shaped from the bottom of the radiator to the center fitting on the pump.
• Because of that shape, you can’t just relocate the pump without buying a replacement hose ahead of time—something you can trim and adapt to the new location.

I’ve ordered the proper parts for a permanent fix, but in the meantime I improvised: cut a section of silicone intake hose, wrapped it around the pump body, and zip-tied it into the stock location. It’s solid enough and “silicone-mounted,” but I’ll eventually switch to a proper isolated mount.


Wiring;
Here’s where things got interesting.

• My 2015 has a two-wire, two-prong plug.
• Unlike some 2014 models (e.g. Clubairth1’s), the pump on my car doesn’t activate with just ignition on—it only runs once the engine is running. Not sure why the difference.

Couple of wiring quirks worth knowing:

• You can wire the pump backwards—it’ll still run either way. One direction is correct, the other is wrong. The pump plug itself is marked positive/negative.
• To confirm orientation: with ignition on (or engine running), probe the factory connector on the crash bar with a voltmeter. One side will show ~13–15V, the other will be dead. That’s your positive.
• Mark everything! I used a red paint pen on the ZZP plug and factory connector to keep polarity straight.

Finally, you’ll need to cut the factory plug off your OEM pump. Leave yourself plenty of wire to work with—the factory harness is thickly molded in rubber and takes patience to trim. Once stripped, match positives, build your wiring assembly, and use the ZZP adapter. From there, it’s plug-and-play.


Final Thoughts;

It works, but it’s not a straight swap. Plan ahead with hoses and be ready to do some careful wiring. My setup is temporary until the new parts arrive, but the pump is in and running correctly.



I also took 3D scans. I’ll start playing with them this week and see what I can come up with on that after I finished permanently sorting the pump mounting out.

 

On my 2013 I was able to easily slip the factory rubber mounts over the ZZP pump. I didn't even need to trim anything and reused the factory hoses also. I assumed a 2015 would be identical. Glad you got it sorted!

 

Yeah, I wasn’t so lucky. On mine, the lower rubber grommet mount thing with the eccentric that goes to the radiator couldn’t even be used at all. The pump Is quite a bit longer than OEM, making the snail area is below the OEM location. Since the factory elbow hose was being used, everything shifted down rendering that lower mount useless.

The body of the ZZP is also almost twice as big as OEM. So the upper mount that had the single bolt couldn’t be used as the rubber would stretch to the failure point just to get over the body.

None of it is a huge deal and easily remedied. This is all to give people who are thinking about doing this another point of reference.

 

Good write up and anyone installing the ZZP pump should read it before starting the install.
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