Thanks for the info @Jaaag_drivah . Yeah, I think I will do those as well, the gaskets and the water pump. However, do you know the plastic part numbers of the cooling system that I need to replace? I want to make sure I have those on hand when I actually do the job.

@clubairth1 - the tool part number is 303-1621. I got it as part of this kit: which includes other things to do the timing job.

Also, does anyone know what I need to take out to remove the fuel pump chain? There are no videos that I could find that show the disassemble procedure and all other ones show the engine already out of a vehicle with the bottom sump completely removed. Do I have to remove the bottom sump? Anyway, thanks for all the help everyone!

 

I actually just went over this process with someone today, and have done it myself on a 2011 N/A 5.0, it was in a Rover but the same thing.

As above, you need the crankshaft locking tool in the flywheel where the CKP goes, then the tool should slip into the vacuum pump mounting hole, if it does not you will need to reset the cam timing on that sub cam. It's done by removing the lower cover and rolling the chain over the crank, does not affect the engine timing chain.

 

Thanks much puzon23! I have not had the pleasure yet of working on these HPFP so it's all new to me.
Rover thanks again as your access to Topix is very much needed on the forum!
.
.
.

 

Take a look in my post history- I have done a write up with part numbers at some point. You will want to double check those part numbers' fitment with Jaguar online catalog as mine is a 2013, supercharged.

 

Thanks for the reply @Jaaag_drivah I will check it out.

Also, one more thing... Do I have to replace the crankshaft bolt after removing it? I believe that the steps in the manual call for it but I wanted to check if it's a 100% requirement. I had cars before where you could put the bolt back in after removing it.

 

Crank bolt is torque to yield and one-time use as a result. They are also reverse thread on later applications, which is unusual.

 

Hi All,

Quick update on my adventure. I was able to disassemble the bottom timing cover and adjust the camshaft that drives the HPFP timing chain. I am in a process of putting it back together and I have a question for someone who can help... The main crankshaft bolt has a torquing sequence of first tighten it to 200Nm and then do a 270 degree final turn. Well, I did the first part but was not able to do the final 270 degree turn. I only got to about 190 degrees give or take. How critical is it that I go all the way to 270? I mean I was using a 50" pipe to get the leverage and I was just not able to move it anymore. I'm thinking that it is not going anywhere at this point. However, I wanted to ask here just in case. Again, I know what the shop manual states but I have put all the muscle and leverage with my pipe to it as much as I could and it simply won't move any further. Hope someone can tell me if how I have it now should be enough. I mean, I know that going over the 200Nm already puts that bolt over the torque of no return so maybe it's good enough?

 

I would leave the bolt where it is, (I can't imagine the degree of pain if it sheared off) then run the engine for a hundred miles or so and then try to re-torque the bolt. If it moves, good. If it doesn't, also good.

wombat

 

They often get put on with power tools and never have an issue. Normally I would say always follow the manual, but in this case you will most likely be fine. They self-tighten in operation due to the direction of thread, so there is no chance of it coming loose on you later. I have also seen one broken during re-use and it's an engine out job to remove the snapped off piece usually. I'd rather avoid that if I can.

 

RoverJoe thanks for the explanation but I have been confused for a long time by JLR's use of LH and RH crank bolts? If the RH versions do self tighten with use why don't the LH versions loosen up?

Why RH and LH versions? What were they trying to solve with that added complication? I have worked on many different brands of engines big and small as well as aviation and never seen RH and LH crank bolt versions?
.
.
.

 

I may be wrong, but I believe it depends on if there's a supercharger on the engine or not.
IIRC The NA engines are reverse-threaded, and the SCs aren't.
The pulley system is a little different (to drive the blower).
Of course the engine is turning the CW on both though.

 

It has to do with the torque on the belt drive or something, above my pay grade as to why. As stated though it's flipped from N/A to S/C engines, with the S/C versions using the 'reverse' thread crank bolts. I just know i've seen them broken by techs during install, but never come loose once they were on, and most of them are not being put on properly with the flywheel locked and the special crank pulley tools being used, torque multipliers, etc.

 

If you think about it, the N/A only has one belt, and the torque from that belt only ever pulls in one direction. With the S/C engine, the 'normal' belt and the 'blower' belt are pulling in different directions. I'm guessing that the 'blower' pulls more torque than the 'normal' belt, and hence, the need to reverse the thread on the bolt.

I hope that makes sense.

wombat

 

Both SC and NA engines use the reverse threaded crankshaft pulley bolt. Only the very early 5.0 engines used the normal threaded bolt. I do not know when the change occured but I have worked on many 2010 motors, both Jaguar and Land Rover, and have never encountered one with the normal thread.

 

Thanks for all the answers and discussion. I finished the job today by putting it all back together. The car started right up and the fuel pressure is showing within normal range. The reduced performance message is gone and there is no CEL. I will take the car for a test drive tomorrow to see how it drives but I do not expect anything weird to be frank. Like I stated earlier, I pushed the bolt as far and as hard as I could with that 50" pipe. I had the flywheel locking tool in and also the special support tool attached to the flywheel. I have a hard time imaging it coming loose. My engine is a regular NA and it is reverse threaded bolt.

Thank you all again for all the help and advice!

 

gt40,

So, did JLR realize that they made a mistake with the crankshaft bolt, or realizing that in the very near future everything would be supercharged and the torque requirement needed the thread reversed?

Anyway, puzon23,

Glad you got it sorted! Fingers crossed!

wombat

 

I'm sorry - I was thinking about the viscous fan bolt on the AJ133 on the Range Rover. Same engine, but unlike the Jaguar it uses a belt-driven fan.

 

Quick update... Did a test drive, car drives like a champ, no issues!

 

Result!
Thanks for checking back. It's a huge frustration when folks don't report success, or failure.

I would still check the bolt after a 100 miles or so , but I think you are golden.

wombat