Hi all,
I have a 2013 XJL 5.0 with only 47K miles that I've had for 10 years. Lately the problems have started to mount up, and I made the decision that I would try to do my own work (and also find an independent mechanic for the jobs I can't do) as it would not be smart to continue to use the dealership for an aging car.

To date, I have repaired:
water pump leak ( installed new pump and hoses)
headlamp replacement
driver door actuator

So about a week ago I was driving like a madman (as I usually am), and hit a pothole. I noticed the other day that the tire had a bulge. My elderly parents were coming to town today, so I needed new tires, ASAP... the only way was the dealership, who could get my tires same day (vs 3 day shipping to get them myself) and would only cost me like $125 bucks more including labor.
I go to pick up the car, and they did an inspection and found:

• rear brakes (1mm left until rotor)
• oil leak from driver side valve cover
• torn front lower control arm bushings (replace front lower control arms)
• broken driver engine mount

They wanted $10 for the work... of course no. I was planning to do the brakes and control arms myself. Question- can one live with a broken engine mount? I assume I could not do this without lifting the motor. 2- oil leak from driver side valve cover- is this reasonable to fix on my own?

Thanks!

 

Greetings, Tonyman,
The rear brakes are straightforward.....Send the rotors out to be turned, unless they are under thickness spec, in which case replace them (have the new rotors turned as well, they are *usually* warped from the factory.
To change the pads, you will need a piston resetting tool (Harbor Freight has them) to wind the pistons back in....Make sure the fluid bleed screw is open so you don't push dirty fluid back up into the ABS system 🙄
Front suspension is most likely the "banana" arms, about $150.- each side, Lemforder brand is OEM, easily available
The engine mounts require lifting the engine to provide enough clearance to remove and replace the mount 😥
The valve cover requires a fair amount of disassembly to access, unfortunately.....

Remember to change oil every 6000 or so, and check oil level regularly as these engines do burn some

 

Thanks! Great advice! I just got a pneumatic pump to change the oil. Thanks also for the note on the pad tool- i would have started without it otherwise.

 

You need 7mm allen key for rear caliber sliding pins. (front 9mm)
Brakework are very easy as long as you have piston tool. Pistons needed to be rotated same time when lightly pushed in. Possible to be done with multigrip plears but extra caution that the rubber dust cover dont broke. The piston winding tools are so cheap that no reason not to get one. (if i remember right, one side clockwise, other counter clockwise?)
There are lot of instructions/youtube videos how to do it. MY 2013 no need of diag tool for reseting hand brake either. After work take extra play off from piston by operating the handbrake cable lever by hand (or pliers). Then when you power up the car operate hand brake by button once and then release. Done.
Note: If you are purchasing new rotors, please verify that you get genuine parts. Huge amount of counterfeights are in markets. All major brands have instructions on their webpage how to identify genuine product.

And yes: Lot of works can do yourself. There are complete x351 Service & Repair manual available for download from this forum.

 

After work take extra play off from piston by operating the handbrake cable lever by hand (or pliers).

Any guide for how to do this??? I had to wait for the brembo pads, so this project is stalled and I already removed the old pads.

Thanks!

 

Have you watch your brake caliber? Seen an cable coming for it an connected to the lever? Once you have new pads and mounted the caliber back to hub, operate this lever by hand or pliers same way that the cable would pull it, say 4-8 times. This will move the pistons near to the disk so the electronic motor operating the cable will have enough space to operate and dont run out of tolerance on mid of pad wearness. Only once you have done this you can turn ignition On and calibrate the electronic handbrake by adding it and release. (most cases sytem will ask you to do so in instrument display)
Btw: Do you have brake piston wind back tool? The rear caliber pistons have to be rotated in. Best way to do it is with wind back tool, what costs around 10 bucks.
Like this: Piston wind back tool
You also need 7mm allen key for sliding pins. (9mm for front)