Hi Group. My coolant is slowly going down on my 2017 XJ, and it is time for pipe replacement at 80,000 miles. I have found these pipes and materials, but am following the suggestions to use the Jaguar O rings seals. Can someone please provide me the part numbers for the Jaguar seals that I will need?
Is this brand/supplier OK for the pipes and water pump? I am asking for your opinion, so please be nice.
I plan to replace the oil cooler gasket and the supercharger gasket. Is it OK to buy from non Jag parts supplier?
It OK to replace the plugs and not change the coil packs?

 

Up to you. As you found out the JLR parts are usually the most expensive. I do like and have used Euro-Amp but others have posted they did have some problems.
I am sure with some searching you can find the O-ring part number's as they have been posted before somewhere on this forum.

Do you plan to DIY the repairs?
It always helps to give full car details but from your picture I think you have a V-8 and it's a 2017 so a SC V-8?
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Check in my post history and I have a long post that includes part numbers for those rear manifold O rings. You can reuse the OEM supercharger/intake gaskets. Oil cooler gasket I would stick with OEM.

 

Here's a quote from when I did the job earlier this summer (with part numbers):

There wasn't any real trick to getting the supercharger free, just rock it back and forth grabbing the sides and levering up by holding the snout. I was working solo and did not use any engine hoist or pry bars. When you start getting desperate is when you start breaking stuff.

The job is so miserable that you might as well expand your scope and address everything underneath the supercharger that is known to fail. I spent just over $1K on parts and materials, but this is over $5K worth of work at a dealership, so I feel like I got a bargain.
Here is a list of what I addressed/replaced:

-valve cover gaskets
-spark plugs
-Injector teflon and fuel rail seal kits x8 C2D24387 (Injectors need to be removed for the valve covers to come off, do not buy aftermarket or used injectors. Amazon slide hammer tool is essential to remove these injectors and profile the Teflon seals correctly. I had to weld additional counterweight on the slide hammer to remove some of these injectors successfully and one of them took over 500 whacks to remove- ouch! Soak the injector bores in penetrant for 24 hours before attempting removal. Do NOT lever against the valve cover or try to pry them out at a sideways angle or you will break the top of the injector off the lower solenoid unit and create a bigger problem for yourself)
-2x new Bosch injectors #62120 I broke while removing them
-upper and lower coolant pipes in aluminum (I used the Euro AMP kit with new water pump, pipes, rear manifold, in all-aluminum components as well as several hoses and seals you'll need: https://euro-amp.com/products/10-17-...44050298601671)
-rear coolant manifold OE seals AJ811600 to replace the cheap seals the aluminum replacement comes with
-coolant line from the front of the car to the to rear manifold, this has been updated without a bracket so it's easier to install T2H3431
-Throttle body to rear manifold hose AJ813614
-Expansion tank cooling vent hose C2D6362
-Radiator drain plug Dorman 61138
-Supercharger oil 150ml
-Bosch MAP sensor #0261230295, 4-pin, on the rear of the supercharger (it is cheap and only accessible with the SC removed)
-Accessory belt Dayco 5060968DR and rear smooth flanged idler pulley-Autozone Duralast 231629 (requires the SC belt tensioner bracket to come off to be replaced)
-I also cleaned carbon off the intake valves with B12 chemtool spray and a brass bristle drill brush.

 

Thank you all for the great information. The engine is the 3.0 Super charged one. I neglected to say previously.
I also want to go with the waterless coolant to help prevent any more issues. Other than the cost, I have not heard anything bad.

 

One additional tip is I also spray some penetrant around the injectors. I use compressed air and blow the pockets out around the injectors and spark plugs. Before removing them. It's surprising how much dirt, grit and grime hides in there.

The kit you pictured is for a V-8? See the 4 hole gaskets in the picture. Most of the other parts are the same as the V-8's BUT that rear water manifold from a V-8 won't work on the V-6 as those use much longer legs where it bolts to the rear of the engine.



Where the rear water manifold bolts to the engine I did swap to the JLR seals on my 5.0L SC V-8.
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I need to change that pipe behind the engine... may I ask where you got the oem seals from?

Also... is it doable on the 3.0L without removing the supercharger?

 

Meanmugga,

When I changed the rear cross over manifold on my wife's F-Pace, I got the OEM O-Rings from my local LR dealership. In general, LR parts, although identical to Jaguar parts, are 30% cheaper!

Get the OEM seals. Trust me, this is not a job you want to do twice! (While you're at it, invest in a bumper box of 'Band aids")

wombat

 

Removing the supercharger isn't difficult, and it is absolutely necessary to do these jobs.

 

Lol 😅 damn not the Band aids. I would have thought the LR would be more expensive 🤔. Now to find the model number.

Man..I was really hoping I could manage with the wiper cowel removed
I removed the SC before to change the Y pipe. Didn't want to buy the gaskets and stuff over. But now I might as well do the oil cooler gasket while I'm at it.

 

While you're in there, delete the stupid symposer! There are kits available on eBay etc, that contain everything you need including blanks for the vacuum system.

wombat

 

Here is a great thread about the aftermarket metal rear water manifold and it's all documented nicely by bydand. Many pictures too!
Rear Water Manifold

As I posted I was not happy with the aftermarket seals used in the Euro-Amp version so I went back to the Jaguar seals which are made very different from a plain O-ring like what came with the metal water manifold. If you have the LR factory version part number please post them.




Yes the V-6 is WAY easier to swap out with the SC on. You have all that room behind the SC to work which is completely gone on the V-8 versions. I did it on my 5.0L SC engine and after all that I recommend removing the SC if at all possible. It is possible but it was a miserable job with the SC on..

I have also changed both PCV diaphragms with the SC on and again it will be a bunch easier with the SC off.

Agree 10 times with Wombat! One of the best thing's I have done and certainly the cheapest. Outside of that expensive VAP block off plate! But I wanted a bit of bling so I got it.
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Found the LR part number!


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No need for those seals just bolt the pipe and go
mine has been going strong for 3 years now

 

Interesting thought, but although I understand you're sharing your personal experience I can't even begin to believe that it would not leak without the seals installed.
I would never suggest that anyone install the heater manifold without those o-rings, and I will certainly never do that myself, but perversely I wouldn't mind reading what happens when someone else tries to install sans the seals.
With all due respect I could see how the existing seals (albeit worn & flattened) may have stuck to the back of the heads & remained there when the new manifold was installed; when I replaced my manifolds I did see at least one of the seals stuck to the head & I had to pull it off before installing the new ones.
But if your engine does in fact have the manfold mated directly to the heads without the seals, I would consider you to be one lucky instance that is the anomaly, not the norm.
Otherwise, the seals wouldn't be there.

 

Thank you for the part number! 🙏🏾

 

I think he's probably referring to just running the thin red seals all the aftermarket rear manifolds come with. They're much thinner than OEM, and 3 years isn't a long time, but to each his own. OEM seals provide a better sealing area.
Personally, this job is not something I want to do again to save $10 on seals.

 

Hey Mean! Your very welcome and you got me curious so I did some research. As people have posted above and I can't explain why but very often the LR part numbers are cheaper than the same Jaguar parts?
Just an oddity of the JLR world I guess.

Yes again I owe fellow forum member bydand a big thanks as he really dug into the metal after market rear water manifold and then discussed the pluses and minuses of it. His pictures convinced me to use the JLR seals. The OEM ones start out like my pictures show but after time and miles they are very smashed/distorted when removed. In fact when I removed the old seals I thought they were O-rings!

I did NOT want to face that repair again if possible and figured using the JLR seals was a step in that direction and just cheap insurance.
Jaguar put that seal in instead of an O-ring and there must have been a reason why.
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Ahh - okay. And if that's the case that sounds much better than what I misunderstood.

 

...And if I recall correctly, the mating surfaces of the manifold and the head both have channels or grooves that the OEM seals fit into. That's why I had to dig the original seals out with a pick - because they fit into the grooves.
So an o-ring won't seal as good, even one that's otherwise a good size.