Hello. I been the owner of an 2011 XJL for two months now. Bought with 68,000 Miles. I have only put around 300 miles or less since owner ship. I’m on I.R. At the present moment.

One owner car and the Carfax stated the coolant pipe was replaced at Dealer around 63000. Today I was driving highway and local for about a couple hours. Once home I noticed the warning overheating message and gage full red. I immediately shut off. Then I heard the pop and steam coming from car. Antifreeze was on driveway. I removed the radiator cover to get a closer look and green antifreeze was sitting at the bottom where rad and condenser sits.

After searching a lil more I noticed the driver side sensor was out of the hose.
My question is is this the possible area where the pop and lost of coolant cane from. I put it back in but have not filled resovoir up as of yet. Not sure which coolant I should be using to top off it look like the resovoir had orange how could this be? And what are does anyone suggest for diagnosing or repairs . Thanks

 

Post a picture. You might have lost coolant elsewhere and overheated then the pressure build popped there. You will have to fill and see if you find another leak. Orange coolant is common on aluminum engines.

 

I have a 2011 XJ and this happened to me.I was in dynamic mode coming off a speed burst and It started steaming from under the hood and low coolant light came on. I immediately stopped and shut the car off looked under the hood and coolant was everywhere and the engine sounded like a pressure cooker. Had it towed and turned out that the cross pipe under the engine intake burst and the auxiliary water pump for supercharger went out simultaneously. I had the shop replace all of the coolant plastic parts while they were in there and now she runs fine. one thing the shop did say is thank god I didn't overheat the engine because these aluminum blocks do not like heat I just hope you didn't blow your engine good luck with your repairs.

 

Stics2Clips, I would start with first adding a bunch of distilled water to the overflow tank to see if I can spot where water/coolant is coming out. No sense in adding more coolant at this point as you will probably end up just draining everything out to do the repair work. If the system seems to hold fluid, then you may need to get your hands on a coolant pressure tester. Atleast here in the US, most auto parts places have free tool rentals and you can pressure test the coolant system and that will find any leak. Of note, the plastic tubing on top of the engine (if you open the hood/bonnet and stand in front of the radiator, if you were to lean in, about where your right hand will want to go is where all of these tubes are) will become brittle with heat cycles and it is very possible that is where your leak is coming from. But, it would also sound like you have a bigger issue with either a blocked thermostat or a failed water pump as the system was able to hold fluid in (it built up pressure to cause something to pop when the motor was turned off and then start causing fluid to come out). So, I would not be running the car too long until you get that resolved. Unless you are a backyard mechanic that has flushed a coolant system before, this would be something that I would recommend taking to a shop to have them look at and diagnose.

 

Use the correct coolant to Jaguar specification after the system has been flushed.

Use distilled water to refill the system when COLD and use a pressure tester to determine the source of the leak. The AJ133 gets very cross when overheated quite often resulting in warped block and heads.

 

I do have a lot of back yard mechanic skills lol. I work on all my vehicles However. Since this is my newest machine Perhaps I’ll stick to A shop to correctly diagnose the issue.

I top with distilled water and let it run for a good ten minutes. I notice a leaked by where the plastic elbow pipe attaches another connector With the a tree of hoses. Also I notice the coolant fan never came onas the temperature reached 114 centigrade according to my icarsoft I930. The upper radiator hose also had steam coming from beneath the nettted area. Looks like more than one problem. I checked the Carfax the coolant pipe was replaced at 40,000 not what I stated on first post. Now I’m probably do for the updated pump and all the other issues that are associated with the coolant.

 

Leaking out this area is this the thermostat?

 

DO NOT let the engine get to more than 105 Celsius or the block/heads can warp. The system also needs to be bled to remove any air pockets.

Perform any inspections for coolant leaks only when the engine is COLD using a cooling system pressure tester.

 

Looks as if the water pump was replaced but there is a hose with a Plug in the end. And they also use the green coolant . My leak is coming from thermostat housing. . My photo attachments are loading facing the wrong way sorry

 

Hi all,

The update on my repair: I replaced my thermostat with a genuine Jaguar part and flushed the green coolant out and put in dex cool orange. Rinsed radiator fins with a Garden hose to try to remove Coolant spillage from the area.

After topping off and test driving so far no leaks as of now. However, I scanned the modules and it came back with P0481 and Bfe12. Which relates to the cooling fan which I observed not running at all even with the ac see on.

Possibly the fan is bad. I checked the 100 amp fuse with multimeter. Is there any other relays or module to check on the circuit. I looked through the fuse panel diagrams perhaps I missed something.

Do these fan have a short lasting history? Being that the car is 9 years old.

 

Stics, look at fuse F31 in the engine bay fuse box. This wire tells the fan module that the car is turned on. If this fuse is bad, the module doesn't know that the motor is running and it is fine to run the fan. Then you may want to also check relay R6 in the same box. If you look at the top of fuse F31, you should see 2 small metal posts. If you take a multimeter, you can measure between those posts and chassis ground to see if you are getting 12 VDC there. If you are, then you know the relay is good.

The P0481 code simply refers to there being an issue with Fan2 in the car. This can be either the control module or a lack of voltage to the control module. If you can connect up SDD to the car, then you can look at this code again and it will then have a dash after the P0481 along with 2 more characters. Those characters would then say exactly what the computer is seeing as wrong. An example would be if it was P0481-04, then this would indicate a damaged fan controller. That makes figuring out the problem a lot easier.