In fixing my DPS valve in the AC system I had to partially drain the coolant because I had to disconnect the transmission cooler brick. Since my car was put into service in Sep. 2013 is now been 10 years. I decided to change the coolant and drain the rest of the coolant. Well this turned into a bit of a problem until once again this list came to the rescue!

I found a very cheap Dorman petcock that is the EXACT replacement! On my 2014 XJ Jaguar does not even list a radiator petcock. You "might" find reference to JLM20622 which is the correct part number for many, many Jaguars. But check the price if you can find it!

The Dorman #61138 is around $6 and available everywhere. I recommend after dealing with numerous Jaguars to just replace it. I also found that almost all of the plugs will be tight and then seize in place after about 1 complete turn loosening it. Not a problem just carefully spray it with WD-40 and try to work the screw back and forth 1/4 turn to work the WD-40 into the rubber/plastic. This will usually tear up the plastic screw head and I use pliers to pull it out all the way. I find I get a much stronger coolant flow out the bottom of the radiator with the plug completely removed.

Also use the largest flat blade screwdriver you have and "try" to not shear the plastic plug off! It's pretty tough but you must use the largest tool possible to fill screw slot with no movement.

Here is my stock plug next to the Dorman replacement.





Can you tell which one is factory and which one is the Dorman? I can't and it all measures exactly the same.

Here is a comparison of the screw head. Now it's easy to see the damage on the factory screw head on the left.





So a super cheap and easy to get replacement part!
This exact same part has been used in millions of Fords since about 1995. The thread size is M14 X 1.50.

This will also be the maiden flight for my new vacuum radiator filler. Looking forward to see how well it works too.
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The Dorman #61138 is a great find - thanks. See me earlier post I had real problems removing but as clubairth1 says just cycle it back and forth and it will come out. I had to fabricate a tool to not chew up the plastic.

 

hafren you were my inspiration as I did read your thread and stole the WD-40 AND working the screw back and forth suggestions from you! But only after getting a single turn and then it all appeared to lock up and was seized pretty solid. I stopped before I broke something and started searching on the forum. Up popped your thread and suggestions. Got it moving in about 30 seconds with the lube and the large flat blade screw driver. Not as nice as your custom tool though.
So thank you again!

But it just seemed like this should be replaced so I took some time tracking it down. Like a lot of Jaguar parts they do interchange IF you can find enough information!
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Man two more failure points due to plastic! Do you guys know any others other than those three? I already replaced my bleeder screw on top with a brass one from a BMW. I didn't even know about the other two. I am not putting any more plastic parts in the car that need to be replaced, do you think this would fit in there if it has the same thread size and pitch?

Brass Petcock

What otherplastic is in this engine that I don't know about? I have already replaced all the coolant xovers and y pipes and thermostat, and getting the metal ones on the next service. What other plastic is in this driveline? I have a metal mechatronic seal in the transmission to replace the plastic one. We should go collectively and study all the engine/transmission diagrams and find all the plastic $#!* and have a company make a plastic delete kit.

 

No I don't but like you I am always looking to see what's available for replacement parts. Metal better than plastic for sure!
Did you replace the rear water manifold with the metal version?

I did when I removed all that ridiculous Symposer crap at the back of the engine.

Not exactly what you asked but there is a better rear heater hose assembly that connects to the rear water manifold. Simpler and cheaper as well.

This is the XJ factory hose with the terrible hard to get to attaching bolt. This bolt threads in straight from the back of the engine. I removed and installed it twice with the SC on and I hope to never do it again! It's a bit hard to see but this is the hose that has the bleeder screw in it on the passenger side of the engine.




This one was suggested by someone on the F-Pace forum as his mechanic for some reason figured it out and now installs it regularly on all the Jaguar's that go thru his shop. No bracket or bolt! Plus it's about $30-$50 instead of $140 for the big crappy one with the metal bracket. It's what should have been installed from the beginning too.




But Jaguar never goes back so no parts manual will show this hose to fit anything earlier than about a 2017 F-Pace.

Looks like you got the correct thread with that brass one. M14-1.50. Only problem I see is there are not many threads on the brass one so not sure it will reach all the way up to the threads in the radiator? The factory plastic drain plug is flush after it's screwed in.
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I did replace that rear one. Thank you for that find! Put it in the shopping cart. Looks like this has been an issue for awhile for a lot of cars. Here is a low profile one labled brass radiator petcock.