I was considering rock auto for the brake parts. I am thinking of having front calipers replaced on my 2013 xjl awd. 90k miles. Rotors and brake pads too.
What is a good source for these? Rock auto? Which brand? They have several brands at rock auto.
Auto zone also has them. Duralast brand.
Does it make any difference?
In the past, when a mechanic used after market brake pads for my XF, the brakes kept making loud noise when stopping at low speeds. Once we had OEM pads/rotors installed, the noise went away.
In the past, I had used successfully and without noise, after market brake pads on other cars - with no noise issues. One of them was the "place for brakes" or a name like that.. They worked just fine.
I would appreciate suggestions for the rebuilt calipers, rotors and brakes.
Also, some of the rebuilt calipers come with and without mounting brackets. Is it important to buy with a mounting bracket?
Thanks
PS: Also, considering the age of the car (8 years), is it better to simply change all four calipers? The cost is minimal, with these rebuilt units. Might as well change them all? How long are the calipers expected to last? 10 to 15 years?

 

Rock Auto is fine but I changed my pads because the stock pads put out so much dust. I went with Porterfield CF pads.
Just make sure you know what size your rotors are. There were several sizes and it's easy to get confused and order the wrong stuff.

Do you need rebuilt calipers? I don't change the calipers unless the slider pins are sticking or I see uneven wear from one pad to the other.
Same with rotors. I usually cut the rotors a bit just for new pads.
You might not need to spend as much money if nothing is worn except the pads?
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The vibration went down quite a bit, when I pumped the brakes a lot, during stops at traffic lights. This indicates that the calipers are probably sticking. Even though the brakes have only about 12k miles on them, there are grooves in them. This is the 3rd set of rotors/brakes (all OEM) in the past 3 years! The dealer had even replaced them once under warranty. Interestingly, even the first set had grooves in the rotors. So, I am assuming that there is something inherrenty wrong with the front brakes and the next step is to replace the calipers. The rebuilt ones are very cheap at rock auto. $60 + $90 core charge. The mechanic quoted $500 for each non OEM caliper. So, I ordered from Rock auto instead (autozone also had similarly priced calipers).
Anyway, I will know more, once I have everything changed.
I hope the rebuilt calipers work fine? Has anyone used rebuilt calipers?

 

jaguarxjl, I am getting ready to rebuild my front calipers. The rebuild kits are cheap (like $20). To rebuild a caliper takes a matter of like 30 minutes. Very easy to do. That would save you a lot of money. Looking around here, some members have had a funny wobble in the steering wheel that went away wtih new calipers (some minor sticking?). I have that same wobble (light braking, wobble, get on the brakes harder, the wobble goes away). Once I get my car back from the shop, I am planning on doing the brakes all the way around the car with new rotors and pads (ceramic). In the process, I am going to do a complete fluid change out too.

 

I am wondering if I should have the brake fluid changed? I have to have a mechanic do so. The brakes are working fine. So, I am wondering if it is worth it or even necessary?
Update, The jag dealer just emailed me that the brake fluid was changed in july 2020 and that he would suggest doing it again this year! Is brake fluid change, annual? I didn't think so. What is the recommended brake fluid change interval?

 

3 years

 

jaguarxjl, brake fluid should be changed when the fluid goes from a fairly clear fluid to something that you can barely see through. The fluid is hydroscopic (ie, wants to absorb water). That is what causes the fluid to change color. The water in the fluid will cause parts inside the brake system to rust. So, how often is too often to change the fluid? I don't think there is a true answer to that. This is where the fluid will tell you when. Living in a humid area like I do (on the coast of Maryland), the fluid should be changed atleast every 3 years (the brake reservoir is not a sealed container). You live in a drier place like the midwest or Arizona, you can probably go longer. But, the fluid will be the telltail.

Besides, if you are looking at replacing the calipers, you are going to have to bleed the brake system anyways, it is an extra pint or so of fluid to do a complete fluid change out than to simply vent the air out. Cheap insurance if you ask me.

 

If you're going to flush the brakes yourself you will need a suitable scan tool. The ABS block needs to be opened in the correct sequence to flush the lines properly. Investing in a power flush is not a bad idea either.

wombat

 

The calipers from rock auto were actually Jaguar calipers, which were rebuilt. The rebuilding brand was centric.
It was very easy to return the core back to rock auto, using their shipping label (only $10 for return shipping of both calipers!).
Pads were Brembo - also quite good. They even sent a free wear sensor (only one side requires a sensor).
Rotors - I dont recall the brand. No issues.
Over all, I am very pleased with the parts from Rock auto. I think it is a good idea to choose their most expensive parts (which are still a fraction of what a mechanic quoted. The calipers were $150 - $60 core charge Vs Mechanic quoted NON OEM at $500 each and told me that rock auto parts re junk! It turns out that Rock auto part was actually Jaguar caliper rebuilt!).
My mechanic simply bled the brakes fluid at each bleed point at the wheel, until the liquid came out clear. No ABS/scan tool was needed.

It turns out that it was the sticking calipers which were causing brake shudder. Even the dealer didn't realize this and he changed the brakes/rotors free, under warranty, within 12 months, due to shudder!

A friend was visiting me and he was the one who suggested that it was likely the sticking calipers and he was right! So, if you have brake shudder, please pump the brake while parked/stopped and see if there is improvement. If there is improvement, you need to get rebuilt calipers!

 

+1 on the above. Used the motive products power bleeder and bled them in the correct sequence until the fluid ran clear. Didn't need a scan tool.

 

I did the same thing, but I do believe that this method doesn't flush the fresh fluid through the ABS module. What I've done, with other ABS equipped cars that I've owned, is after flushing the system with the bleed tool, I find a grassy area to drive on, and actuate the ABS on the somewhat slippery surface, a couple of times.

 

Being hydroscopic is also the reason calipers stick (rust build up), hence the rebuild (seals, boots and pistons) or a replacement! As ChaosphereIX and Thermo replied, every 2-3 years or when the fluid in the brake reservoir goes dark; whichever comes first. More frequent stops and starts, like in heavy traffic, would warrant a more frequent change.