Is there anyone who's added a subwoofer that fires into the cabin?
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 183
Likes: 26
Ok. I am going to try this route
After a ton of research in different car forums....
40CWD82 - These are some bad *** sub's for the money and is mountable as infinite baffle.
I have a PBR RF Amp and so I am going to take the factory subs out and replace with these. Ordered them already
First thing I will try is to run the subs directly with factory amp (we have a 15 channel 375 W ) to see if I get bass increase. Remember I am going for a decent increase not too much.
Second if that doesn't work I will wire in the PBR and see how that works. Since I am replacing factory I should get enough with these subs to satisfy my needs.
I will get the subs next Tuesday so I will post pictures and results soon
..
fingers crossed
After a ton of research in different car forums....
40CWD82 - These are some bad *** sub's for the money and is mountable as infinite baffle.
I have a PBR RF Amp and so I am going to take the factory subs out and replace with these. Ordered them already
First thing I will try is to run the subs directly with factory amp (we have a 15 channel 375 W ) to see if I get bass increase. Remember I am going for a decent increase not too much.
Second if that doesn't work I will wire in the PBR and see how that works. Since I am replacing factory I should get enough with these subs to satisfy my needs.
I will get the subs next Tuesday so I will post pictures and results soon
.. fingers crossed
Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 14
Hi. Ok so quick update. I have talked to quite a few people around the areas and different shops including those who compete and I have some findings to report
1. The Jags modulate everytime we increase volume and rolls of bass as needed. This is not good because this means i cannot run it off the factory amp as it wouldn't even push it.
2. The best way to overcome this is to use a LC2i. This would solve the problem. However this means using your subwoofer control in the console may not be direct and its best to run a bass knob , which I really did not want to do
3. Fitment, I can see from some ebay parts from 2011 that the fitment may require a little juggling around.
So the subs
1. Kicker DVC is economical choice
2. Hybrid audio 8 inch imagine is a more audiophile option to run infinite baffle on this (however you will need atleast a 500X2 rms amp which runs around 350) to move these.
I am going to go with the LC2i, Kicker and Rockford PBR 300X1 and figure out about bass knob as I go along.
Still waiting on the subs to show up. Fingers crossed. I will try to be in the shop and take pictures.
I want all my fellow Jag owners to enjoy crisp audio ...
1. The Jags modulate everytime we increase volume and rolls of bass as needed. This is not good because this means i cannot run it off the factory amp as it wouldn't even push it.
2. The best way to overcome this is to use a LC2i. This would solve the problem. However this means using your subwoofer control in the console may not be direct and its best to run a bass knob , which I really did not want to do
3. Fitment, I can see from some ebay parts from 2011 that the fitment may require a little juggling around.
So the subs
1. Kicker DVC is economical choice
2. Hybrid audio 8 inch imagine is a more audiophile option to run infinite baffle on this (however you will need atleast a 500X2 rms amp which runs around 350) to move these.
I am going to go with the LC2i, Kicker and Rockford PBR 300X1 and figure out about bass knob as I go along.
Still waiting on the subs to show up. Fingers crossed. I will try to be in the shop and take pictures.
I want all my fellow Jag owners to enjoy crisp audio
...
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Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 89
Likes: 15
From: Cleveland, OH
I paid for access to the service manual. You have to take the rear seats out before you can get to the parcel shelf, and then the shelf comes out. You absolutely cannot take the subs out from the trunk.
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Hi. Ok so quick update. I have talked to quite a few people around the areas and different shops including those who compete and I have some findings to report
1. The Jags modulate everytime we increase volume and rolls of bass as needed. This is not good because this means i cannot run it off the factory amp as it wouldn't even push it.
2. The best way to overcome this is to use a LC2i. This would solve the problem. However this means using your subwoofer control in the console may not be direct and its best to run a bass knob , which I really did not want to do
3. Fitment, I can see from some ebay parts from 2011 that the fitment may require a little juggling around.
So the subs
1. Kicker DVC is economical choice
2. Hybrid audio 8 inch imagine is a more audiophile option to run infinite baffle on this (however you will need atleast a 500X2 rms amp which runs around 350) to move these.
I am going to go with the LC2i, Kicker and Rockford PBR 300X1 and figure out about bass knob as I go along.
Still waiting on the subs to show up. Fingers crossed. I will try to be in the shop and take pictures.
I want all my fellow Jag owners to enjoy crisp audio ...
1. The Jags modulate everytime we increase volume and rolls of bass as needed. This is not good because this means i cannot run it off the factory amp as it wouldn't even push it.
2. The best way to overcome this is to use a LC2i. This would solve the problem. However this means using your subwoofer control in the console may not be direct and its best to run a bass knob , which I really did not want to do
3. Fitment, I can see from some ebay parts from 2011 that the fitment may require a little juggling around.
So the subs
1. Kicker DVC is economical choice
2. Hybrid audio 8 inch imagine is a more audiophile option to run infinite baffle on this (however you will need atleast a 500X2 rms amp which runs around 350) to move these.
I am going to go with the LC2i, Kicker and Rockford PBR 300X1 and figure out about bass knob as I go along.
Still waiting on the subs to show up. Fingers crossed. I will try to be in the shop and take pictures.
I want all my fellow Jag owners to enjoy crisp audio
...
Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 14
I also took the car to several tech's. one of them recommended that I add the amp to factory sub's to see how it boosts the current speaker setup without having to tamper.
Once I get to go tomorrow I will try to take pictures to post it.
Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 14
Ok. So I spent the whole day in the shop today. As UH2 said, it is a PITA to get to the factory subs and its opening. it involves removing the back seat, then removing the side panels and two back panels before reaching the shelf and removing the subwoofers.
The factory subs are super shallow and light. They are meant for low power applications. We tried to fit in ARC Audio, Kenwood and a Alpine, all of which do not sit into the basket.
Basically none of the readily available subs would sit in that basket so you can just replace it and add amp to it. One exception was german maestro sub, however it is more like the factory sub so its not worth it to replace it.
So here is what I did. I left the subs out, took out the shelf and inner lining so there is nothing to rattle and wired the subwoofer lines to trunk.
I then took a shallow 10" Rockford P3 with an Alpine MVR500 (auto sensing input in this amp so I chose this) and ran the output to the P3 in a shallow enclosure. This basically ports the sound into the cabin through the factory subwoofer. I put the amp in the spare wheel well cutting the tool foam a bit to accommodate the amp.
I have a good bass now but I feel I need to tune the heck out of it this weekend. I have pics in my phone will post them shortly
The factory subs are super shallow and light. They are meant for low power applications. We tried to fit in ARC Audio, Kenwood and a Alpine, all of which do not sit into the basket.
Basically none of the readily available subs would sit in that basket so you can just replace it and add amp to it. One exception was german maestro sub, however it is more like the factory sub so its not worth it to replace it.
So here is what I did. I left the subs out, took out the shelf and inner lining so there is nothing to rattle and wired the subwoofer lines to trunk.
I then took a shallow 10" Rockford P3 with an Alpine MVR500 (auto sensing input in this amp so I chose this) and ran the output to the P3 in a shallow enclosure. This basically ports the sound into the cabin through the factory subwoofer. I put the amp in the spare wheel well cutting the tool foam a bit to accommodate the amp.
I have a good bass now but I feel I need to tune the heck out of it this weekend. I have pics in my phone will post them shortly
Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 14
Ok. So I spent the whole day in the shop today. As UH2 said, it is a PITA to get to the factory subs and its opening. it involves removing the back seat, then removing the side panels and two back panels before reaching the shelf and removing the subwoofers.
The factory subs are super shallow and light. They are meant for low power applications. We tried to fit in ARC Audio, Kenwood and a Alpine, all of which do not sit into the basket.
Basically none of the readily available subs would sit in that basket so you can just replace it and add amp to it. One exception was german maestro sub, however it is more like the factory sub so its not worth it to replace it.
So here is what I did. I left the subs out, took out the shelf and inner lining so there is nothing to rattle and wired the subwoofer lines to trunk.
I then took a shallow 10" Rockford P3 with an Alpine MVR500 (auto sensing input in this amp so I chose this) and ran the output to the P3 in a shallow enclosure. This basically ports the sound into the cabin through the factory subwoofer. I put the amp in the spare wheel well cutting the tool foam a bit to accommodate the amp.
I have a good bass now but I feel I need to tune the heck out of it this weekend. I have pics in my phone will post them shortly
The factory subs are super shallow and light. They are meant for low power applications. We tried to fit in ARC Audio, Kenwood and a Alpine, all of which do not sit into the basket.
Basically none of the readily available subs would sit in that basket so you can just replace it and add amp to it. One exception was german maestro sub, however it is more like the factory sub so its not worth it to replace it.
So here is what I did. I left the subs out, took out the shelf and inner lining so there is nothing to rattle and wired the subwoofer lines to trunk.
I then took a shallow 10" Rockford P3 with an Alpine MVR500 (auto sensing input in this amp so I chose this) and ran the output to the P3 in a shallow enclosure. This basically ports the sound into the cabin through the factory subwoofer. I put the amp in the spare wheel well cutting the tool foam a bit to accommodate the amp.
I have a good bass now but I feel I need to tune the heck out of it this weekend. I have pics in my phone will post them shortly
Here is everything that has to come out to get to the subs
The back when we got to the subs
The subs. Light weight super shallow. Someone should try earthquake sws cos it may fit better.
Two guys three hours to install
Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 14
I have two of them. Will post pics this evening. One is a downfiring 10" box with a Rockford P3 Subwoofer and the other is a Kicker Solo Baric Square.
But basically once I ported it, any subwoofer would fire into the cabin just as fine. I did one thing though, I removed all the additional trims underneath that would rattle which makes it clean .
But basically once I ported it, any subwoofer would fire into the cabin just as fine. I did one thing though, I removed all the additional trims underneath that would rattle which makes it clean .
Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 14
Just a quick note to all. So I tried a few boxes.
1. Sealed - if you use a sealed box, the downfiring is not a good choice lke I have in the picture. The bass gets lost before it comes to cabin, use a side firing.
great if you listen to a lot of rock music
2. ported - best choice IMHO for us, the ported solo baric kicker has a good response range when the filter is set to 125 hz. I listen to a lot of heavy beats so this is a good choice.
1. Sealed - if you use a sealed box, the downfiring is not a good choice lke I have in the picture. The bass gets lost before it comes to cabin, use a side firing.
great if you listen to a lot of rock music
2. ported - best choice IMHO for us, the ported solo baric kicker has a good response range when the filter is set to 125 hz. I listen to a lot of heavy beats so this is a good choice.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: NY
Just a quick note to all. So I tried a few boxes.
1. Sealed - if you use a sealed box, the downfiring is not a good choice lke I have in the picture. The bass gets lost before it comes to cabin, use a side firing.
great if you listen to a lot of rock music
2. ported - best choice IMHO for us, the ported solo baric kicker has a good response range when the filter is set to 125 hz. I listen to a lot of heavy beats so this is a good choice.
1. Sealed - if you use a sealed box, the downfiring is not a good choice lke I have in the picture. The bass gets lost before it comes to cabin, use a side firing.
great if you listen to a lot of rock music
2. ported - best choice IMHO for us, the ported solo baric kicker has a good response range when the filter is set to 125 hz. I listen to a lot of heavy beats so this is a good choice.
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