2011 xj l sc 5.0, i put the newer style chain guides with the steel inserts, along with newer style tensioners, everything is on the marks, but when i want to try turning the engine 2 revolutions, the guides push the tentioners in and if feels like its almost ready to jump a tooth. Shouldnt the tentioners be the ratchet style so once the come out they cant be pushed back in? And the thrust washer behind the lower sprocket, does that need to be there? Whats its purpose? What if i had left it out?

 

Since your screen name says that you trust no one, be wary of what strangers tell you on this Forum. You can trust the Workshop Manual.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...guides-222545/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...manual-188563/

 

Thank u much. Doesnt really answer my questions. I already have the manuals. But thanks. Ill ask around some more.

 

The timing tensioners are dual stage with an inner and outer piston setup, one is sprung/ratcheting and one is floating and activated by oil pressure.
Silly question but you did remove the grenade pins on the tensioners after you fitted them?? Sorry had to ask, you never know lol.
So if you have not started the engine you do not have any hydraulic oil pressure on the tensioner pistons and therefore the tensioner guides.
The lower crank has two drive spockets, and yes you definitely need the thrust washer in place unless you want extra bits of drive sprocket and hardened steel facing in your oil system. But if you have the coin to buy a new crankshaft in the near future i guess you could omit the thrust washers.
There are plenty of threads in the X351 forum regarding the new timing guides and tensioners including one where a member has taken the trouble to saw one in two to reveal a cross section to help you understand the function.
Well as far as trusting no one, i imagine that leaves you to your own intuition, i hope thats not where the notion of omiting thrust washers came from. In that case you are relying on the principle of suck it and see, which kind of makes posting to the forum an exercise in futility. Good luck, read the manual as posted and do your research. Advanced searches here on the forum will reveal a great deal to those willing to use it.

 

Thank u for the advice. I dont have a problem taking it all apart to put the thrust washer behind the crank sprocket. I just didnt understand its purpose being that its soo thin. And with the new style tentioners and guides installed and yes both pins pulled, it says to rotate the engine 2 revolutions but it feels like its gona skip a tooth if i try turning the crank. I can literally push the tentioners in by pressing it with the guide. I would think that they should be ratcheting so they cant be pushed in once they click out. I would think upon starting the engine, the few seconds itd take to build pressure in the tentioners, the chain would skip a tooth or two till pressure built up enough to push the tentioners tight?

 

Something does not sound right, the moment you pull the pin, the considerable spring pressure on the inner piston should have taken up the slack due to the outer piston not having any hydraulic oil pressure.
upload a few pics so we can see exactly what is happening.

 

The 2 new tentioners are exactly the same, both had pins to pull. Once i pulled the pins, i wanted to turn the crank 2 revolutions but it seems like the chains want to jump a tooth on the cam sprockets. I can literally push the chain against the guide and the guide against the plunger of the tentioners all the way in. I would think that the plungers shouldnt be able to be pushed back in regardless if theres hydrologic pressure or not. That means upon start up there wont be pressure until after a few turns of the engine and oil pump.

 

Dude if I remember reading the topix on thos, it calls out prying the tensioner. I dont think just pulling the pins is enough. I'll see if I can find it.

 

We really need some pictures. You will spend eternity describing what going on.
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Actually, i figured out how to reset the new style tentioners when they lock up and wont move. U gota put them in a vise and force them all the way in till it clicks. Then put the pin in and then remove from the vise. Itll feel like its going to damage them, but they wont, they just click and then theyre reset. Id post pictures but if a spec of rust is seen, ill be hearing alot of people chewing me up. My next question is, thrust washers behind the crank sprocket. In what order do the go?

 

Ok, ok, ok now. No worries. I got it all understood after just dissecting the whole timing chains system. I had no other choice once i hit a road block with this thread. But thanks everyone for the help and advise. Im glad I figured it out and learned the answers i needed. Thank u all.

 

And the answer was?

 

Not to hijack the thread, but thanks for the link to the resources. But one word of warning: When looking through the TRADEBIT options for the manuals, DO buy the "great deal" manual for $14.95 UNLESS you have the diesel engine. I do not. There is nothing I could find in the description of the GREAT DEAL manual which covers the X351 for 2010-2012 that says it's for the diesel engine.
If, like me, you have one of the PETROL engines, you need the year-specific (in my case 2012) for $19.99 (still a GREAT DEAL as far as I'm concerned).
I bought the $14.95 2010-2012 manual for (petrol) engine info, but it has almost exclusively diesel engine info.
It does cover the rest of the car too, which I assume is the same other than maybe transmission info... but I need the PETROL engine manual.

Just a word of warning.

 

I have the manual ur looking for. I just don't know how to "share" it because its a big file.

 

There is a sticky at the top of the forum and there is a link to manuals.
If you would like to donate yours I am sure a moderator would help out?
I added my manuals with a mods help.
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