I still have one more question.
The passenger side vaccum actuated turbo actuator? Left hand drive
Its for the big recirculating gas in the back of the engine? Red pipe in the engine picture?


And…. Whats the primary turbo and that's the second that starts above 2500 rpm?
On a left hand car drive?
Driver side is main?
Because my passenger side turbo moans, not whistle….. Moans and seems to shut of real hard…… and the moaning si heard really good starting from low rpm.…. 1000-1500 rpm, when at shifting gears moans on discharge and drops rpm. Of course… same moaning at 2500 rpm.
Maybe someone knows why? I guess vacuum actuators? Or the moaning sound from leak?

 

May someone can enlighten me




C2d48748
Electrical and vacuum? How does it work??
Its from passenger side turbo, back of it!

 

The Bi-Turbo system on AJDV6 engine works so that exhaust gasses are transferred to the primary turbo only on low rews (drivers side on left hand driven vehicle). Pipe colored red on pic above are used to transfer exhaust from other side of engine. When rpm rises about 2800rpm the valve closes "red pipe" and that bank exhaust gasses run secondary turbo providing increasing need of boost by increasing rpm:s. The turbo boost divider valve on low front of the engine have an flap valve to connect both boost pipes in Bi-turbo mode.
By this setup engine have very good low end torgue, practically without turbo lack at all, and also high torgue up to the max rpm.
This was simple description. System also have pre-spin for secondary turbo to prevent "torgue valley" on transition phase arounf 2800rpm and this is also used to rotate secondary turbo when its not needed for the oil flow over turbo bearing.

 

So….. Another question for all of you guys.
Whats your opinion? About air duct tapes. For protection from heat.




Did someone used this kind of product?
For the plastic air pipes and metal exhaust?
I am interested mainly for the front plastic air pipes.
Any ideas? Feed back? Guys from America use this more frequently….. So…. Opinions?
How is it? How is it acting? Its improving air temp? Hot about covering plasticnpipes junctions?

More ideas or experience is better.

 

Today I got delivered the hand pump. I checked the vacuum actuated egr valve from under the radiator, that is brand new second hand, and here is the opinion and opinion request

At first, until 1/4 of bar, didn't move the valve.

From 1/4 to 2/4 (0, 5 bar) opened approximately…. 20-25% of the valve inside.

From 0, 5 bar to 0, 6.……. It opened fully.with the mention that it opened directly the rest of the movement…. With pressures shown above 0, 6 bar wild hand pumping, but between pumps pressure was fixed at 0, 6 bar . And kept pressure and valve open without any problem!
That seems to me like normal behavior for a 90% correct working valve and vacuum actuator.
Because, I don't think the valve gives intermediary commands for the valve to have intermediary positions! I think it supposed to work... Close or fully open.
Is that correct? Does anyone knows exactly? Any other opinions?

 

Hi,

First: Yes. I have been used exhaust thermal insulator a lot. In a race car its the way to keep engine bay cooler (and exhaust hotter) plus on XJ 3.0L Diesel its a trick to keep DPF burning cycle short in cold winter days. Note: Important info when added to any exhaust: Leave about 10cm space unwrapped on headers. Reason of this are that if you wrap your exhaust pipe right up to the cylinder head of flange, you rise the temp of the flange very high. (can burn the gasket)

2nd: The vacuum operated valve low front of the engine is Closed/Open type. Not meant to be partially opened, so i think yours is Ok.

 

did you use thermal insulator on the front plastic air pipes? And if yes…. What type? Like plastic scotch tape or material carbon wove!????

 

No need to insulate the front plastic air pipes. Worthless. If you like to have cooler intake air on turbocharged engine, the intercooler is what you want to focus. (dry-ice mesh, waterspray system....)

 

For those who are interested
This is the front egr valve vacuum actuator!
About 140 euros


As you can see in the pictures, made in 2015, I bought one of the last original specimens on the market as the all the parts programs of the shops in Romania could find ever.
Taking under consideration that the whole egr from assembly is 1200 euros, its the better option
Next….. Check all the vacuum lines and actuators, all the air intake pipes for leaks
With this tools




The smoke machine was about 100+ euros and the hand vacuum pump was about 14 euros

Thanks for the information from all that wrote on this post and created it, special thanks to vasara!

Will follow up with info on the finds in vacuum system and how affects the valve, and the condition of the parts that are on the car at this moment!

 

hello
can someone Enlight me on a matter

This is the vacuum actuator solenoid valve for egr and the two turbos

What hose from what of the 3 exists should I disconnect to use the vacuum hand pump and check for leaks!????
Guess the side with the electrical plug is in for the solenoid?
And the bottom one is for exit…. Towards the actuators?
And the side exit is for what?

Or….. If I am wrong.… please explain.
Just want to use the vacuum hand pump to se if from them to the actuators everything is ok and the hose has no leaks

And second….. On the same part, the vacuum solenoid, that are 3 identical on the car, they give errors? Because I have no errors for them and I am not sure if they are signaling errors to the computer

And third... Someone a parts number for that solenoid? Thank you

 

Hello….
can someone Enlighten me?
The electric command solenoid for the vacuum valve actuator for the egr and turbos….. How to check them? They don't give any errors!
I checked the vacuum system with negative pressure hand pump….. For example, the line to the engine mounts hold pressure at -0.8 bar, front egr at -0, 6 bar, and passenger side left hand drive hold pressure at -0.64 bar. So I guess….. It s ok.
But if the lines between solenoids held negavite pressure(vacuum ) that was clear when I disconnect them a land the cork effect was evident, all the air line to the actual valves ware discharged, no cork effect!
So….. Solenoids? How…. To check for problems or if they are all in perfect operating order? Ps: I cleaned they're contacts also.
Regarding front egr situated under the intercooler….. The valve actuated, but, not as fast as the other 2 ones I have one new and one second hand, and it opened fully at -0, 8 bar. So it was also a little… delay and not fluid move around -0, 4 bar, where it seemed a bit stuck until -0.6 bar, with full open movement (last 20%) movement at over -0.6 bar, negative presulsure where the other were all ready fully opened

 

so….. two solenoids. front top of the engine. one is for the passanger side egr and one for the front spliter egr. one is c2d58333 and one is c2d58332. they are not the same. they have different codes part
but they send vacuum to the same vacuum actuated valve type.
the physical difference between them is that one is thicker and has one vacuum exit on the lateral side as the wiring plug and the other has the vaccum line on the same side as the wiring plug from the electrical harness and its slimmer.
the colleague vasara was saying that exchanging them one in the place of the other could reveal witch one is bad.
so……. are those solenoid valves….internally, the same? i am not asking to buy the same for both of them because one is cheaper, i am asking because i want to know how the act and if they are trully the same in the function point of view.
and……can you check them in a different way? 12 volts and see what happens? or any other way?
i already bought one, will buy the other one, but how to check the old ones? not necessarily on the car.
ps. i checked the lines for vacuum, they had vacuum, lines are fine. ant they hold vacuum , -0,6….-0,8 bar




thanks in advance to anyone who helps.

 

So….. I don’t know that somebody did this…. So I did it





partially disassembled front egr……
the gasket….. is that band of rubber. Truth be told……. The slot for that rubber is easily twice the size. How that works……. Why it’s not thicker…… don’t know. Mine had a play in the arm actuator inside the pipe. That attaches to the vacuum actuator arm. When vacuum actuated the arm, and the arm outside moved the door inside, the arm in the middle, that goes through to the actual door inside had a play.1-2 mm play….. at max opened maybe 3 mm. And some gas leak . The vacuum actuator is still working …… surprisingly. -0.6 bar and holds. The main problem I think it’s with the solenoid that sends vacuum to the actuator. That….. behaves randomly.

I had a new one (proper part code I think) and switch it. The vacuum system works just fine, but beside the actuator, I don’t know how to check the electrical side of it…..!
AND because I got 0 responses on my last questions, ques it’s not interesting enough for someone to answer.
but…… here are my findings. In my own. Just asked a shop to swap parts on the car because they here don’t know or care with this kind of stuff especially for jag.

hope someone finds this pics useful! Btw….. the gasket doesn’t have a code. It’s too small for the slot anyway. And…. ISUSPECT it had a leak by the gasket. So……. That whole egr part is designed to be one use part because of the gasket. But it can be done better by crafty guys with a little bit of know how!

in the same page…… I am just going to ask.
One of the plastic pipes from the air intake, filter to turbos has some leaks at the plastic welds.


worth gluing with some bad *** high temp epoxy? And a aluminum sticking tape over it?

I don’t see why not…… but someone did it before and has feed back. Or plastic welding? The seems are a bit wet.

and that’s the only spots I have at this moment where gas leaks. That…..
AND a huge leak of oil from the passenger turbo .

btw….. you guys in uk or UE…… where can I buy some secondary turbo cartridge? But some good quality…… not the cheap Chinese one that’s sold in the eu very expensive(3 to 5 time the original price)
any ideas for the turbo or even a very good refurb one….. something good and with normal price not 1000+ euro for a second hand or refurb

 

Hi,

That part is turbo pressure divider.
Mine have also some play on arm, but it closes what is most important. This big valve opens when secondary turbo is taken in the game on above 2600-2800rpm (twin turbo mode)
Yes, the original rubber seal have plenty of space on its groove to expand. If the outside is dry around the seam it have been held.
The plastic part seams are near to impossible to clue back together if leaking. Just replace. (new or used)

 

thanks for the answer.
I will buy a second hand one and try to glue the hell out of it. And see if it holds. If not….. new.

 

The piping on your pics are low pressure side, so they should last well without any issues, but increased long term vibration of failed mounting can broke them.

 

Question about the turbo vacuum actuated!
the solenoids, that let vacuum act on the turbo egr and splitter valves, get signals from computer via relays? Or directly from the computer?
Reasonnof question is that after vacuum solenoids are changed…. The solenoids not getting any signals or commands, up the stream so to speak….. what could be the reason. Up stream…. On the electric part….. any relays? And if yes….. about where?

ps. I bought a relay tester and I am going to check every one I can see on the car just to be sure

 

Hello.
same question.
the vacuum actuated actuator
this

nr 5…. Secondary turbo recirculating valve
Is getting the comand to actuate from a solenoid valve
this

this solenoid valve…… gets its comand from where?
directly from the computer ??????
of from some relay?
and if it gets its comand from a relay….. from what relay? Does anybody has some idea?

why the question and I insist on it. After changing the nr 5 piece on the schematics , and the solenoid valve with a brand new one, I still have the impression that both, after being changed ….. still don’t work as they supposed to work. They work intermediate. Some time yes…. Some times no.

please …. If someone knows….. give me a hint. As best of that someone knowledge!
ps: I bought a temu rely checking device. I will check all the relays. But…… some idea would be great

 

Hello.
this question is relates to the thread. S-o Please, moderator, please stop deleting the questions I post

the solenoid that actuates the front “egr” splitter , via the vacuum actuated valve. That solenoid is getting signals to actuate from some relay or directly from the cars computer?
so….. this solenoid valve


that actuates the valve from the schematic……… gets the electric signal from where?

I am looking for an ideea on what to search if the solenoid has intermitent comand of loss of command to open close the valve.
So…. Again…. Please stop deleting my posts with questions
thank you

 

Highly suspect that it is controlled by ECU. I don´t have a clue what pins, but should be in wiring shematics. (they are also available around)