Hi guy, I acquired a 2014 Jaguar xjl from my uncle. He was rear ended the car still starts but it does not see the key unless i put it by the sensor by the wheel on the left side then it starts up. Also after the collision the virtual dash was working fine but now it doesn't display it will show park or headlight or smart key not found but the speedometer doesnt show. the radio isn't working either is there a fuse or certain module i should check out? Only thing ive done was disconnect the rear bumper harness and put a new battery in the car and remote. Any help is greatly appreciated

 

Why wasn't the damage covered by insurance?

 

Fx3kid, let me do some looking at the diagrams that I have. Sounds like you have a single fuse that is blown that is affecting both the instrument cluster and the key.

 

Fx3Kid, look in the central junction box at fuse F61. It is a 10 amp fuse. Then you will want to check fuse F69 in the same junction box. This will be a 15 amp fuse.

The other place you are going to want to look is in the trunk area. There should be a fuse box near the battery that is going to have some larger fuses associated with that fuse box (40+ amp fuses). If you look, you should see 2 fuses labeled BCM_3 and BCM_4. Both of these are 40 amp fuses. I bet you will find that one of these is blown. It may be even possible that the associated wires (BCM_3 has a blue wire with a red stripe running from it and BCM_4 has a green wire with a red stripe running from it) were damaged in the accident and shorted to the chassis of the car, causing what you are seeing.

If this does not fix your problem, let me know and we can take things from there.

 

They payed him off and he has given the vehicle to me

 

Thank you for your quick response i checked both the fuses in central junction box f61 and f69 as well and they were good ,also checked those 40 amp fuses and wiring and they seem fine i even bypas the fuse with no luck same symptoms. Also the radio does not power on or have any light if that helps the rear bumper harness was damaged so it is unplugged the key doesnt lock or unlock from the fob i cant even see the little jaguar logo on the cluster its simply blank but will show ignition on, and headlight logo when switched on.please let me know what you recommend thanks in advanced.

 

Fx3kid, odds are, you have power disconnected from the virtual dash because of the harness that you unplugged. Those 40 amp fuses feed power to the dash. You have the harness unplugged, it doesn't get al the power it needs, hence the limited indications that you get. Sounds like you are going to need to fix the rear wiring harness before you are going to get the dash back.

 

Did you ever get to the bottom of this problem? My symtoms are the exact same, the car was vandalised with all the glass broken, wondering if may have water damage by the rain.

 

Of course not. He has been MIA since 2019.
Can you DIY the repairs? Do you have SDD and know how to use it?
If not get rid of the car now.
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I'll fix it one way or another.. i have literally took all the interior out , was wet under the carpets , not sure how long this car has been parked up with all it's glass broken including the sunroof! Windows will work now and then , sometimes stay stuck open. Same symptoms as if the rear bumper harness is not plugged in. What could it be? Also need to replace the panoramic sunroof , wondering if its bonded or will it come out in one piece, I have removed the 4 bolts on each corner

 

4RUNNERS,

You can remove the sunroof glass and leave the glass carrier in place.

There are 3 or 4 (can't remember exactly), small torx screws on each side of the frame. To remove them, place the sunroof in the tilt position. Then remove the two plastic trim pieces on each side, you should then see the torx screws. (The trim pieces come off with a gentle tug)

Be warned, replacing the glass is a two person job and the gap at the front edge needs to exact or it won't close properly.

wombat

 

Didn't found a topic on cluster for x351 so I will write here
Can you enlighten me please about this cluster light? With the car locked…. And it blinks. Its not permanent. Whats it doing? Why? I didn't saw it before! And I have problems with drained battery! Related? Thank you

 

And another problem. I had done something by the car yesterday evening. And…. Don't remember if car lockedor unlocked, but definitely the car was asleep! I keep the car key in a pouch, rfid blocking pouch. And it wasn't in the car.
But…… roof lights and footwel lights started flickering. On of….. And more than that…….
They started switching from automatic to off. Like I was touching the touch button over the mirror.
I plugged immediately in the central console s lighter socket a plug that shows volts. It didn't start so the cars contact was definitely off. No power to the systems!
Is there something in the touch sensor wrong? This toggle.… lights auto to off lights and light auto….. Can be done only by the touch over the central mirror wright? X351 has the same problem with light touch button like xf has? Contacts gone wrong and connecting plugs need cleaning?

 

The blinking led on cluster is an indicator that your vehicle is locked and armed.
Power consuption is very low so not your draining problem.
When you car is locked and sleep listen under bonned that do you hear high pitch noise? (injectors)
If you do, your ECM don´t set on sleep mode. I found once this issue from my friends car and we suspect that it was caused by jamming / lost calibration of one EGR. Once we performed full vehicle reset with SDD tool, the EGR:s made calibration cycles and after that the high pitch noise disappeared every time shortly after engine was turned off. No issues with draining after that.
2nd: As you have diesel, and if i saw right on another thread, you had code for electric heater? The electric heater control PCB are known to fail and can cause issues for LIN network controlling heater flap motors or keep heating up all the time. The electric heater control PCB is (just and just) accessible from drivers footwell. You can try to remove thick minus cable to test if its help for draining issue. (Warning: flexible back needed. Might want to remove drivers seat to lay down inside vehicle instead hanging partly outside twisting your back. - its just 4 bolts and some connectors)
Used electric heaters are well available (XF use same part), but note: Changing whole heater is a big job. Dash need to be removed for access. Most people purchase the complete heater, but only change the PCB on site without pulling the whole heater matrix off. (check this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266305666847 and this https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/...-fixed.139576/ for reference )

Edit: I have no experience of interior lights issue. Sorry.

 

Yes…. I have the electrical heater error and is permanent. But…. I have purchased last year the radiator second hand. With pcb. I know about that procedure. O was waitti g for the summer to do it, I don't have a garage.… and like I said multiple times, really don't trust mechanics! 🙂

Personally, my money is on the interior lights. Its not just they go on off…… the setting is being modified. Auto lights on…. Auto lights off. With engine running…. Without….. Even with engine off and contact off.
Thanks for your advice.…👍much appreciated

 

Checking the fusebox you might want to try remove F57 (10A) from passenger comparment fusebox (rear seat)
"Glove box, glove box lamp, front and rear overhead consoles,
sun visor lamps, vanity lamps"

Maybe also F21 (5A)
"AC sensor, Front overhead console, Front dual climate control
module and smog sensor."

Hint: Always write on paper what fuse you removed and where. Its pain in the *** trying to place bunch of fuses back without remembering what goes where. (i was young and hurry )

 

That's why I take pictures…. A lot of pictures of everything ofln the car. 🤣🤣🤣
Noted 👍👍

 

Guys….. help with an electrical problem
i checked the fuses , with ignition on and engine not started and with engine running.
on the Bonet and booth panels
I have about 10 fuses, that checked with the pen show no light on both cases.

this is the pen used for the check

errors from 5 amp to 40 amp fuses.
for example, 40 a if I remember correctly it’s for the heated windshield. That….. works…. But a bit tired and not fast and …. Some areas more slowly heated.
same pen…. Same day…. Mercedes w211 . All fuses good. No errors

on the jag I have some comfort system errors….

what’s happening? Why? Replace the fuses and recheck?
someone meet this problem?
related maybe to the errors? That are intermittent and com errors??

please enlight me!

ps: for better fuses…. Some brand? Some suppliers? Or just generic fuses….. because they are all made in china?

 

I would start a new thread. This one is old with multiple people posting and then never returning. It is a mess!
A picture of a wire and a clip is of no use at all. There are no "better" fuses and I don't know what that means? I don't think where the fuse is made makes any difference?

You mention errors and that's where to start. As always note that battery issues can cause a LOT of strange behavior! What is the resting voltage after the car has sat all night?
What exactly is the problem or problems with your car?
Start a new thread and post your errors and what problems you have with the car.
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