Yes it's tight! Be sure to move from tab to tab as you hit it. It will unscrew in a hurky jerky fashion with the hammer and screw driver method. The tool shown above will rotate it out like a socket. Nicer for sure but hardly necessary. The tank is way tougher than what a screw driver could ever hope to do. These are crash rated and very tough.

I was going to get that tool but found it was not needed considering how many tank rings I need to remove in my lifetime!
.
.
.

 

lol.... a recent viral video comes to mind but decorum needs to be maintained.

 

Hopefully this is one and done for me. I already have my fingers crossed hoping that the part from FCP Euro is the correct one and with the correct specs. They did cross check it with the VIN of my car. It was a third of what it would have cost to get it from the dealer.

 

And the saga continues. The pump I obtained from FCP Euro is likely not an exact match. It’s 99% the exact same part including the plastic mesh and the fuel level arm but it has the white indented / corrugated “nozzle” in an upside down orientation as compared to the stock unit . I have the picture below. On the stock unit this nozzle is on top . On the replacement part , it’s on the under side. As a result , there was no way I was able to connect the small black plastic tube that comes out from under the what appears to be the sending unit into this nozzle. Curiously enough , I noted that this tube was already off its nozzle on the stock pump when I was removing it . For now, I have hooked it back onto the stock unit and put the stock pump back in. Car did start up after this on first crank. I plan to test the fuel pressure today ( car sitting overnight) without starting the motor to see what it’s putting out on the lpfp end. Guess I’ll have to order it from the dealer which sucks cause of the mark up . Pics to follow in the next post

 

This is the plastic tube that I am referring to that is attached to the top portion . Is this the sending unit ? Because the replacement part that I ordered only came with the bottom pump that sits in the tank ? Don’t know if that is the only source of my problems
[img alt="This is the replacement part. There is a white nozzle under the junction from whence the corrugated plastic tube is coming out of. It’s behind the clip like looking thing. On the stock pump assembly, that plastic nozzle is on top and not the underside. Still
A pain in the *** to hook up the relatively inflexible black tube in the pic below on the stock pump, but it’s impossible to do it on the replacement part . Just not enough length "]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jaguarforums.com-vbulletin/920x1100/img_9619_f3b3b5efe299386e45ca53d1b32768315a3e1be8. jpeg[/img]
This is the replacement part. There is a white nozzle under the junction from whence the corrugated plastic tube is coming out of. It’s behind the clip like looking thing. On the stock pump assembly, that plastic nozzle is on top and not the underside. Still A pain in the *** to hook up the relatively inflexible black tube in the pic below on the stock pump, but it’s impossible to do it on the replacement part . Just not enough length

 

Pic did not attach in first post

 

Isn't that the filter?

 

Don’t think that’s the filter. There is a mesh that sits at the bottom and is connected to the main body of the in tank pump via right angle elbow. I am assuming that is the filter. This top plastic part has a definite electrical component to it , kinda looks like a miniature inverted propane tank and it buzzes when you turn the car on without cranking the motor. Secretly I am hoping that the disconnected plastic tube was my problem . If not , at least I have gone through an entire removal and reassembly process so that even if I need to order an OE part , I should be able to rely on muscle memory in those super tight spaces

 

That top part is a filter, the pump is the bottom part with the plugs on top of it and the two corrugate lines coming out.

 

So being late to the party when I read your issue the first thing that came to mind was the fuel pickup filter in the tank collenting particles on it and slowing the flow of the in-tank pump. Classic is the issue going away for a bit if the car has sat a little time, as the particles settly off it and allow fuel to flow, then are picked back up with suction again, choking the flow and causing low fuel rail pressure issues. Looking at the images of your new pump i don't see a new filter so if it wasn't included in the purchase I would absolutely change that out. You need to get eyes on it anyway to see if that really is the issue; if so the tank needs proper cleaning to get the trash out of it and to ensure you don't end up with the same issue with the new pump.

 

Yes that is the filter. Here is a picture of what Rover posted above.




Here it shows how they hook together.




One thing I am not sure about is does that special 575 model use a different pump?
.
.
.

 

@clubairth1 - to your point about the 575 model. I do not know affirmatively if the 575 uses a special pump, however, the stock unit on mine looks exactly the same as compared to what you have in your pictures (except that light blue junction connector is white on mine but looks exactly the same). Which is why I am not going to go with the FCP Euro part, since, as you can see in one of my pictures, it has exposed soldered connectors that likely will be immersed in fuel as opposed to the plastic covers for the red and white wire connectors that sit on top of the stock pump. Also, the light blue colored junction part looks different in the replacement part as compared to the stock part.

@JHendo and @RoverJoe - thanks a ton for your input. That schematic really helps my understanding and the debris question is literally the first thing I asked the dealer when they recommended replacing the HPFP pumps initially.

After looking at the schematic and y'all's comments, I have one question - that black plastic tube coming out from underside of the white "cap housing" on the fuel filter assembly - what does that do? I can see it in the schematic but do not find that tube specifically labelled in the schematic unless I am missing something. Does that hook up to the nozzle on the light blue plastic junction piece? Or does it just free float in the tank with one end open? This is the tube that I mentioned in my earlier post that I assumed (do not know if I am wrong) needed to be hooked onto that light blue nozzle piece. I assumed this since the open end seemed to have indents on it that looked like it came from that nozzle end. So I connected the open end to the nozzle on that light blue junction piece, put the stock pump back into the tank and reconnected all the fuel lines and electrical connections. How badly have I messed up? Car does start now without any hesitation and on first crank, both after an overnight shut off and also after short shut offs while running errands. I did run some diagnostics after this and I have the readings posted below -

Previously - LPFP pressure sensor reading with car turned on with start button pressed without cranking motor - anywhere between 90 kPa - 530 kPa. Car did not crank over when pressures were around the 90 kPa mark. Car needed to be "primed" a few times before pressures hit >500 kPa for it to crank over. Then the pressures remained the same around 530-560 kPa with engine idling and did not change much on throttle blips or gradual revs to 3k-4k rpm.

After connecting the said tube to the nozzle - LPFP pressure sensor reading with car turned on with start button pressed without cranking motor - consistently around 720 kPa. Car starts up first crank like when it used to be normal with no hesitancy or extended cranks. Pressure stays around the same for the first few seconds once idling and then gradually drops to around 560-590 kPa during steady idle and increases to around 600-640 kPa during throttle blips but not much with a gradual increase in rpm to around 3k-4k rpm.

Took the car to work this morning and no issues. So, question is, did I fix the issue or have I messed up by connecting that black plastic tube to the nozzle? If I do need to change the LPFP, then I will probably order the LPFP as well as the filter from the dealer at this time, unless someone has a contact for an OE / OEM purchase. If I need to get the filter, do I order just the black part that sits in the white housing or does the entire thing come as a pre-assembled part?

 

In addition to my previous reply above, the tank looked very clean with hardly any debris in there. When you mention getting eyes on the filter, does the black part come out of the white housing that it sits in? Or is it one preassembled unit ? If I do land up needing to clean the tank, I am guessing then it will be a trip to the dealer? Or is there a way or a "tank clean" procedure that allows it to be performed with the tank still in place?

 

Just bumping this thread to see if anyone has input on the long black tube (in the pics that @clubairth1 has posted and on @RoverJoe posted schematic ) - that comes out from under the white plastic housing for the filter and if it connects to the nozzle on the light blue plastic part that seems to be the pressure relief valve per the schematic. Thank you everyone for their input. In the process of getting estimates from various dealers for both these parts (the filter and the LPFP, both OE).

 

Sorry I don't know and what follows is just a guess?

That is the pressure relief valve #12 in Rovers diagram.




I don't think anything attaches to that nipple from what I can see? I think fuel comes out when the valve opens dumping the gas back into the tank.

That long black plastic tube does not seem to attach to anything either? It goes to what looks like a vent in the top of the assembly.
Is there a hose attached to this point?
I think it's just a blocked off port from the pictures. It's dirty so nothing was attached to keep it clean.




I have not had things taken apart as far as you. Take this with a grain of salt as I am just not sure.
.
.
.

 

Many thanks for your input as I have to admit I am a bit confused too. To your point regarding the item circled in red in your picture - no, in my car, it did not have any tube / hose attached to it externally. I did not necessarily take much apart. It was just puzzling to me to have that long black tube free floating in the tank. Maybe it's another vent? I do not know. I did notice that when I looked at the stock pump in place in the tank when I approached it, that pressure relief valve unit along with its attached hoses was not in its opening in the main body of the pump but was just floating around. No disconnected hoses or anything, just that the main body of the pump seems to have an opening that seems to match the tabs on the pressure relief valve body that twist into place. Again, do not know if this is my problem or not.

At this point, although the car starts up and runs fine, it has had one hesitant start with a relatively longer crank and no failed starts. I am just going to order both the filter and the LPFP as OE items from a dealer that can give me a good price on those and replace both these items and see how it goes. My start up procedure currently involves - get in the car - press the start button wth foot off the brake pedal - give it a few seconds and then thumb the started again with foot on the brake to crank - seems to work so far till I get my parts replaced.

 

It's my understanding, and I may be very wrong here, that opening the drivers door energizes the LPFP so that the car is ready to start as soon as START button is pressed (with your foot on the brake pedal).

I know this is throwing a spanner in the works, but perhaps the LPFP isn't getting the run signal from the unlock/door opening command.

Sorry to muddy the waters,

wombat

 

I do not think you are muddying the waters at all. I appreciate your input. Deciphering your comment, I do not know if I will able to read the LPFP pressure readings on my scanner tool with it hooked up into the obd port with just the drivers door open and car shut off. Last time I did that, it only registered ECU as fitted . I had to get the starter button pressed without any cranking to get a baseline pressure readings on the LPFP pump. It would have been to get a read with just the door open and then with the car on but engine off.

I guess at this point , going step wise, I have the parts ordered ( both the filter housing and the LPFP) and will
go ahead and replace these two units with new ones anyways. That way I will have new high ( already replaced) and low pressure pumps as well as a new filter . I’ll see how that goes. I guess if it really is a signal problem as you mentioned , then it would worry me cause then I am assuming it gets into CAN-BUS and electronics issues and I am useless in these and have no option other than the dealer. So hoping and praying that the issue is resolved with parts replacement .

@clubairth1 you are correct in your earlier post. I had a very long talk with the JLR dealer in Portland who went over the schematics and the shop manual while I was ordering the parts. He indicated what you had said - that longish black plastic tube coming from the underside of the filter housing does not connect to the nozzle on the pressure relief valve. He could not say if there would be any damage since I have mine connected that way but I am only using the car right now for short errands till I obtain parts.

I really appreciate all you helping me out in trying to fix my car . I’ll update once I receive parts and get the job done . Fingers crossed

 

You are correct, the LPFP is energized when the door is opened so there's no delay in starting.

 

The long pipe on tank might be the "balance" pipe between sides of the tank. The middle shaft tunnel separates the bottom part of the tank.
The balancing is made by "JepPump" effect using return fuel flow. If the balancing hose is lose, your pump side will run dry and your dash still show fuel. (two floaters combine the level)
Not sure what level the free flow of fuel stops because of tunnel, but i think its more than half tank.
This is well descripted on X351 Service and Repair manual