Version one of illustrated how to replace your starter motor.

Adding more images and part numbers for a version 2

 

Has to be under 5 mb

 

Nice write up.
Many will benefit!

 

I'll add a few more images and all the part numbers and socket sources etc shortly.

 

This is an awesome write up, I’m about to give it a go in the coming days. Does anyone have any hints on how the steps might differ for a RHD car?

 

G'day N Bath,

I did this job on my RHD V12 years ago and I had to remove the steering rack in order to be able to remove the RHS exhaust downpipe as the rack valve body is in the way.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Thanks, sounds like a bit of a bigger job than I thought. I guess I’ll need a ball joint separator?

Nathan.

 

G'day Nathan,

I have found that separating the ball joints can be done by loosening the nut until the top of the nut is slightly higher than the thread of the tie rod end and while supporting the steering arm with a bottle jack or axle stand and then giving the top of the nut several sharp blows with a BFH (big ...... hammer).

When I replaced my starter I also undid the rear transmission mount and lowered the rear of the gearbox to give me better access to the top starter bolt. You can see it from above but can't get at it and you can get at it from below but can't see it!

Oh and incase you didn't pick up on it the top bolt is not a hex headed bolt but has a twelve pointed head and needs the correct socket while the bottom bolt has a hex head.

Cheers and good luck,
Jeff.

 

Nice write up Oliver.
Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Jeff mate - do you reckon you could just undo the steering knuckle and 4 bolts holding the steering rack to the sub frame and just drop it a few inches (supported from blow) to get at the bolts, leaving the steering arms attached?

It's probably better to carefully lower the rear of the transmission enough to be able to see the nightmare upper bolt, but when I did mine I was consumed with anxiety about the possible state of my motor mounts and damaging/tearing them if I moved the motor. In hindsight probably a bit too paranoid.

 

I’ll see if I can do it without removing the rack, will let you know how I go. I’ve also got an endoscope that I’m planning to use to help with seeing the top bolt.

I’m expecting to get stuck somewhere, but still keen to give it a go. Thanks for everyone’s help.

 

G'day Oliver and Nathan,

Yeah I reckon you could just lower the rack out of the way without separating the ball joints however the hydraulic lines and electrical connector would still need to be disconnected. Access to the downpipe bolts is not really the problem, it is the same as your car, but having enough room to remove the downpipe is the issue with the power steering valve body being quite tall.

Using an endoscope is a good idea.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

OK, after 9 hours, the rack is out and the exhaust is off.

Initially I couldn’t get the spline off the rack, and still managed to get the exhaust out, confirming that you could probably do it without disconnecting the steering column.

Wow, what an awkward job.

I given up for the day, will try to get the starter out tomorrow.

 

Endoscope working well, dangled down from the top, so I can see when the socket is in the right place.

Still some way to go to actually get the bolt off.

 

Got the starter out, phew. Will post some info later, but the one I’ve got as a replacement from British starters, has 11 teeth, and not 9, is that ok? Any help appreciated.

 

Here’s the massive extension I used from between the two mufflers.

I ended up going for a 7/16 12p socket, on a wobble extension that was about 1m long. I think I got the idea from the XJS forum, although I had to use an even longer extension.

I put loads of pressure along the axis of the extension, and used a breaker to get it moving.

I also used a cheap endoscope from working the bonnet to make sure I want slipping.

Then, after all that, I couldn’t get the replacement gear reduction starter to fit. Defeat from the jaws of victory.

Large extension

 

Oops, accidentally posted twice

 

Great. The endoscope idea is a good one. I think I wore away the teeth on the top nut on mine putting huge pressure on with a breaker bar from the rear of the car, glad you were able to break it loose.
I installed an identical starter in mine so no insights on the gear reduction version, will be interested to hear from others

 

Removed the startermotor today. What a pita that is. As N Bath described, the upper startermotor bolt is a 7/16 12p



I started this job 3 months ago originally as a cleanup of the right front of the engine bay. Due to a oil leak many years ago everything behind the right hand headlamps was covered in an oily black crust. The people that refurbished my alternator asked me never to bring anything like that into their workshop ever again and charged me an extra hour of labour just to clean the thing up.



As you can tell from the picture I removed everything from the front of the engine bay. Radiator, bumper, condenser, cowl, fan, all pulley tensioners, alternator and steering pump. This enabled me to access the nut on the most forward stud holding the downpipe onto the exhaust manifold. Frankly I can’t see how else I could have had access to that last nut. It is said through the access hole on the side after removing the wheelwell liner. I have my doubts. On the other hand I have found it less challenging to get the socket onto the upper startermotor bolt. Once I knew it was not an E18 torx socket but a common 7/16 12p socket it came off quite easily. The car was on a scissors lift so I was laying on my back working above me. I decided to remove the startermotor and have it rebuild since I read this thread on how difficult it is to do and knowing I had easier access to it now the steering pump and alternator were out of the way. When removing the catalyst converter/downpipe I noticed a rattling noise when turning the catalyst up and down. Material has come loose inside so it is going to be a costly exercise this one.

 

You're lucky with the bolt coming off - the problem with using a 7/16 12pt socket on it is if it's too tight the socket just polishes the end of the bolt to become round - an E18 torx will give you a lot more bite