I recently acquired a 96 XJ12, after I've been looking for one for ages, my first non-5.3HE V12. Just got it up and running a few days ago, and had a few questions.

1. Where is the coolant sensor on the 6.0? I ran it for a while to get it up to temp and check for leaks and the gauge never moved, so presumably I either have a dead sensor or a bad connection.
2. I redid the o-rings inside of the oil cooler hose fittings (looked like someone had been in there before and used the wrong size o-rings so it was spraying pretty good), and now have no leaks. The hoses themselves look good, and are still nice and pliable, but I was wondering what's the actual difficulty level for removing them? I was debating on taking them off and doing it as a preventative, but I'm not sure if it's possible to do without a subframe drop.
   1. Is there supposed to be an aero shield/undertray? My car doesn't have one, but it seems like the longer oil cooler line would be pretty exposed to road debris without one, and I swear it looks like there are clip holes for one in the bottom of the bumper.
3. I would like to get a second key fob and/or a new shell for the existing one that's falling apart... Anyone know of where to get either? I haven't owned an X300 in several years, but they're the same as a Saab 900 of the era if I'm remembering correctly?
4. The steering wheel has a little up and down play, almost like a worn column bushing on an XJ40... Any insight into this? Maybe something just needs tightened?
5. My oil pressure gauge dropped to zero randomly several times once I got it up and running. I removed and cleaned the connector for the sensor and the issue didn't return, but I was thinking about replacing the switch/sender as a preventative... I saw a few threads referencing some JLM PN#'s but that it turns the gauge into a dummy light of sorts... Is there a PN# or an aftermarket switch that works that retains the correct oil pressure reading?
6. Throttle bushings? I can 3D print some polyurethane ones as a temporary solution, but saw some mentions about a shouldered brass bushing or perhaps some delrin ones being available.
   1. How much spring tension should there be on the center throttle capstan assembly? I can't tell if my spring is either just weak, or maybe broken/disconnected on one end.
7. For those that have rebuilt your own alternator, how difficult is it to remove the slip ring? I opened up my alternator because it wasn't working, cleaned everything internally (decades of oil leak/grease buildup on the brushes), and it actually works now. The slip ring looks fairly worn though, so I was thinking of replacing it before reinstalling it this weekend.
8. I would like to keep the car 100% stock, and although the factory radio works, the display seems to have died... Is there anyone who refurbs these and/or are the parts available like they are for the clock displays/ribbons?

Some pictures of the new purchase for you all as well:

 

1. B bank water rail.









https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.../brand/jaguar/

 

3. The SAAB LTQFM433 (which, counterintuitively, transmits at 315) should work on 315MHz cars. I believe a 1996 LWB could be either 315 or 433MHz. The rear windscreen is a clue (though not definitive since a SLCM is easier to swap than a backlight):

OE fobs are rare and expensive. A shop recently killed my only working original transmitter, so I may have a mostly-intact shell ready to go on the market.

 

2.1. There should be a little baby undertray. The center rear protrusion gets ziptied to the swaybar, IIRC.
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic...undertray.html

 

6. I used sintered bronze oilite bushings (part no. EF050806), but if you have the time and money, these custom Teflon jobbies from Lithuania are probably the best:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324493998270
The off-the-shelf bronze bushes took a bit of grinding to fit into the bracket holes.

 

8. I've heard it said that instrumentclusters.com / Southern Electronics can refurb the Alpine AJ9500A.

 

On the rear window antenna for the FOB freq , the TSB indicates the rear windows were mixed as they came into production line even though they committed to go 315 or 433 so.........................

You'll have to commit to antenna freq and verify the freq as labeled on the SLCM , the FOBS will have the freq inside , or outside on the 315 like mine , the battery cover and the 433 can be found on the FOB circuit board inside , there are some tips on opening the FOB as other TSBs

18-12

 

Gents,

Just to clarify a little, there are two coolant temp sensors on the V12, one on each bank thermostat housing.

The one on B bank sends coolant temp info to the ECU and the one on the A bank sends the coolant temp info to the temp guage in the instrument cluster. This temp guage is programmed to read midrange most of the time so it really is only a glorified idiot light.

A scan tool will read the ECU temp info and give you an accurate idea of the engine operating temperature.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Thanks for the information everyone, just had some free time to get back to the car over the weekend. I was able to find both temp sensors, gave them a clean, and the gauge started working again, so that's good. Still haven't checked to see what the ECU is seeing for the engine, but I will later this week.




Still not sure what to do about the oil pressure sensor/sender. Haven't ran it long enough since cleaning the connection to figure out if it was just a bad connection or if the sensor is failing. I would like to preserve the actual oil pressure readout if possible, rather than swapping to a switch that acts as a dummy light.

Rebuilding the alternator was easier than expected, new brushes, slip ring, bearings, etc. Should be good for many years to come unless I messed something up while in there. First alternator I've personally rebuilt, but I figured it was a safer bet judging by the quality of rebuilt/reman ones I've come across these past couple of years

This weekend I plan on doing the front shock mounts/bushings, a transmission service, oil change, new belts, and reinstalling the alternator (of course). Maybe investigate the throttle tower return spring... Seems a bit weak from age, but it looks like I can adjust it tighter by one revolution.

 

G'day Buckle,

I have a late 1994 build car and the oil pressure guage is similar to the coolant temp guage, it is a glorified idiot light and sits mid range most of the time.

I bought a cheap direct reading guage from an auto spare shop and connected it to the junction in the Vee at the rear of the engine to see what was going on. As expected the pressure fluctuated with engine revs but at idle dropped to a really low reading which is apparently a characteristic of the oil pump on these engines. Nothing to worry about according to Jaguar but it looks scary.

I have attached a doc which sort of explains it.

Also here is a link to all sorts of Jag literature. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...48/#post263943

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

I got mine from a wrecking yard, same as on an x300, needed a bit of plastic welding

 

2. I've done this and recommend hose replacement, it is easiest to drop the subframe which isn't as a bad as it sounds. The hoses typically split right up by the oil filter housing, Be aware the motor mounts are unobtanium and may fall apart when you drop the subframe though. Also easy to replace the starter motor while the frame is out, bit of a nightmare with it in place.
3. 
   Here's a photo album: pictures speak louder than words.
   
   
   
   

 

That album will be very helpful in the future, thanks.

Looks like the oil cooler lines will just have to be what it is for the time being. My garage space is being taken up by my XJS, and I only have a weird angled and heavily sloped driveway to work in... and I'd have to buy an engine support brace, and there'd be a lot of "while you're in there's" I foresee. Maybe in the summer if I could borrow my brother's lift for a week.

 

I suggest if possible exploring as much as as you can get to with a flashlight around the flexible lines where they end up near the oil filter, they tend to fail there due to heat and when they blow they pump oil onto the exhaust manifold at an impressive rate. Not fun away from home, fortunately it happened to me locally. People have managed to replace them in situ without dropping the subframe, it's doable.
These and the two flexible fuel hoses front and rear of top of the engine connecting the fuel rails tend to age and get heat brittle so good idea to inspect closely for peace of mind.

 

G'day Buckle,

I blew one of my oil cooler lines years ago and once I got the offending one off the car the other one was easy.

I couldn't get replacement hoses so I took my hoses to a hydraulics workshop and had the metal bits re-hosed and they have been good for the last fifteen years or so.

I didn't have to drop the subframe but my car is RHD and the steering column is on the other side to your car though come to think of it I did remove the steering rack and the exhaust down pipe for access.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...emoval-256046/