It's all in the details! I've got the pop-up dipstick too. I'll see if I have an o-ring to fit it.

What kind of tweeters did you fit? If you saw my old post, I fit originals into the pillars and rear doors. All the original tweeters were dead. FYI you've got two unused oem tweeters up under the windshield panels. Only used on the standard audio system. I relocated them to the A pillars, worked out great. Same type went into the rear doors, but the output is almost non-existent.

Good work on the door latch. Agreed it is an absolute necessity. I struggled with many latch problems on my old X300s. Now I'm ready. I just acquired used latches from the honorable Mr. Jerry Hoback, veteran forum member.

You can also slightly bend the window frames (with window open) in or out to get a better seal on the body if necessary.

 

Boss TW18. They literally stink of toxic Chinesium but they are verified to sorta fit, $16/pair shipped.

The defrost vent tweets in my car have been sun-baked to where the magnets can be seen through where the driver membranes used to be. I don't intend to repopulate rear tweeter spots either.

An intermittent transmission fail light (it happened a second time and I felt the TqC lockup release while at a steady ~50mph), the gas gauge reading empty with a full tank, the leaking spare, and the intermittent NOT CONT are the projects going forward, plus a passel of cosmetic/minor fixes to do:
Shifter garnish unmoored
Center vent louvers untied, of course
Brake reservoir ugly; clean inside or replace
Clean and lube seat/window/mirror switchgear
Tighten or renew left defrost grille friction fasteners
Apply Scotchcal stripe tape to engine cover
Remove oily grime from heat exchangers
Put caps on front brake bleeders
Passenger lumbar bladder possibly leaky
Front bumper skin missing two belly pan attachment tabs
Detail interior
Cut & polish exterior

 

Finally removed the CD changer. I own only one CD, and while it would appear to play, no sound ever resulted. Made room for the A2D-JAG97 to be mounted to the changer bracket:

And a Honda accessory cargo hook:

 

Kick panel, or what Jaguar calls A-post finisher, turn studs were unavailable in Oatmeal so Barley it is.

Any idea what this pigtail is supposed to go to? The connector is like ones that go to the A-pillar tweeters and has brown-white and black wires.

My TCM received the firmware update. Fwee.

Lubricated the sunroof rails, and noticed that when tilted, the rear edge of the sunroof headliner panel hangs lower on the right than the left. Maybe I should leave well enough alone since it currently works well, if a little unenthusiastically in sliding mode, and I don't intend to use it much, but I do want to find out how the headliner panel is supposed to attach to the sunroof itself.

 

Have a look through this thread for sunroof info, I am sure I read about it in here
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-parts-232118/

 

I looked a little harder. Oy vey, it's a 2001!

I can probably get a cheap new tire mounted and balanced for well under $100. Might be worth it for the peace of mind even though I have only once had to use a spare over more than two decades of driving.

 

I don't even recognize that date coding. 29th week of 01? I guess its time! YOU NEVER KNOW when you might need it.

I think I'm seeing 97S on the sidewall. Let's step it up to 97H or preferably V?

I've had very good experience with new or used tires from several reputable ebay sellers. Sometimes its the only way I can find an exact match for whatever I'm currently running. BestUsedTires, UnitedTire, etc. For used tires they will tell you the date code if it is not in the description.

Hope I'm being helpful but you probably already knew all of this stuff.....

 

Probably going with this. Though I must say the most impressive set of tires I've ever run were used Bridgestone Turanzas (EL30 perhaps? It was 20 years ago, at least) picked out of the skip behind the Goodyear store.

 

The Classic Parts Catalog biffed this one.

KRA106001 is hardly a drop-in sub for KRS112120, arrowed blue. The correct clip is unavailable so I ordered a grab bag of 200 assorted plastic automotive fasteners from China and will keep fingers crossed.

 

Where did you find your china grab bag of 200?

 

I searched "bumper clip assort" on eBay, sort by lowest price, seventh result. $5.15 shipped, not bad assuming it ever arrives.

 

Hey that KRA106001 is the undertray pin rivet. I never nailed down that Uro # (or the undertray!) so THANKS. Now I can get some from... Those rivets are one-time use. I remember buying a "full set" of 6 a while back, when the car takes 8 I think.

 

Last night I got my second real fill-up, 19 gallons and change. Went from intermittent reserve light and needle in the red before, to solid on and gauge pegged low after fill, like the last time. But then after 15-20 miles, the light went out and the needle barely crept up out of the red. I could live with it being wonky for the top quarter of a tank if I didn't know that the sender is accessible right behind the trunk carpet.... If I can definitively diagnose a faulty sender, the work and the ~$50 part are lesser considerations than the inevitable gas stink in the trunk.

No trans light lately, but "TAPE/CD" button doesn't even report "NOT CONT" anymore. I have a Bluetooth cassette adapter as backup, but its S/N is nowhere near as good as the A2D-JAG97 that I can't use now.

I am watching the coolant temp as reported through OBD. I think it gets as high as 91°C, but it seems to want to maintain 80-86°C. I am using the heater pretty extensively in cool weather, but this seems low to me.

 

From this state as of post 17 in this thread:

I've brought my wheel-barrels' cleanliness to a slightly higher standard. After hours with a brass brush, scrubby sponge, and Meguiar's Hot Rims, I'm going to stop at "less bad."


Also applied Gummi Pflege to the shut seals.
My tach needle seems to be delaminating.

 

And I thought those 20-spokes were hard to clean on the outside!

When I have the wheels off, I try not to disturb the smooth matte finish on the inside of the barrels. It is a grey powder coat finish.

The tach needles on these cars are usually very durable. But I suppose there are exceptions!

 

G'day Guys,

I changed my brake pads over to Akebono years ago, they make very little light coloured dust and it tends not to adhere to the wheels. Much cleaner wheels is the result.

https://akebonobrakes.com/applications

Cheers,
Jeff

 

I'll make sure the previous owners refit only Akebonos from now on.

 

The departure of the CD changer also left room to install my little in the trunk.


I would have preferred to put it in front of the passenger seat cushion in the because racecar tradition, but that would have required fabrication beyond my current toolset and skill level.

Could also have been a little too on the nose for a V12 Jag, I think.

 

A big shipment arrived from the Old Dart.

~50kg of aluminium

They're Jaguar Solar 17x7.5" wheels for my summer tires.

But to take advantage of sticky hi-po summer tires, I'm going to have to get some new suspension bushes put in. The car clunks heavily when it hits a deep pothole or, as I just discovered, undergoes a full-ABS stop. Otherwise it rides wonderfully. I understand this is probably worn front subframe and vee mount bushings. I might start a new thread to ascertain a parts list and all the while-you're-in-theres for a front subframe drop. Transmission filter, fluid, pan gasket, sensors, and solenoids are probably going to make that list.

 

The clips arrived today. They are of pretty miserable quality, but there were a few scrivets that fit. The whole bag cost about what a single push rivet at a dealership goes for, so no surprise at all the flash and thin walls.

Also today, I removed the dome covers from the factory lugnuts to make them open-ended. About half required a hacksawn relief cut, a few pried right off.

In a lucky coincidence, the unshrouded nuts have a 13/16" drive, just like the chrome Gorilla-brand nuts I'm running on the exposed-lug 20-spoke OE wheels.

I test-fit a Solar wheel. The bare nuts fit under the hubcap just fine.