Finally got a 96 x305 and drove it 800 miles in the last three days without mishap.

I've got a whole laundry list of things to fix but very happy with the drivetrain which was my main criteria for purchase. Like driving a turbine, creamy eager power up and beyond 100!

some questions I'm pondering

-The car wants to go right, I have to keep my hand on the wheel to stop this. The PO said it was a bushing issue, before I inspect should I get an alignment first and anyone got any insights what the likely issue is?

- I have a sunroof with the rear interior section not closed and a glimmer of daylight at rear. Is this a common issue and are there any fixes above and beyond what is in the shop manuals?

- The windshield washer reservoir is kaput, PO said it is at front and gets damaged. Is this the same as on the x300 cars, can I get one at the junkyard or is it a unique part?

- Same question re centre console, mine is pretty bear up and the cup holder won't close. Is this an interchangeable x300 part?

- i've only got one key, anyone know where and how to get duplicates?

I'll be depressurizing and replacing the fuel lines this weekend, I think they are the original ones!

Thanks to all who helped me on here before I found this car!

 

Welcome to my addiction.
Put front end up on jack stands get yourself a long bar and start poking and prying on the steering components to see where the movement is. Do this before alignment. Wheel bearings also need to be checked. Grab tire and see if any movement. Tough to say what would cause pulling to the right without inspection.
Sunroof interior rear trim piece is..... hmmmmm.... I've worked on this but at the moment it escapes me if it is cable or spring loaded. Alzheimer's. I'll have to go and look.
Same windshield washer reservoir. Be careful if you use ramps on the front end. These will damage the reservoir when coming off due to clearance. Trust me I know.
Center console is the same.
Dealership will provide duplicate keys. Mail them a copy of your title and they will mail you the keys.
Your gonna like your purchase once everything that has been neglected is addressed it's a hell of a ride. I have seen 160 mph on an emergency ride to the hospital. (Not recommended but saved a life.)

 

On the sunroof if you open the sun glass holder there is a release slotted fastener and the control panel cover will come down

You will see the sunroof motor and a place to manually close the sunroof

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...nd%20Setup.pdf

On the reservoir , the X308 fits in the same space but the fill tower is different and may be able to swap the fill tower

In a worst case a powdered protein shake jug fits perfect but sits a couple inches low

https://www.vitacost.com/optimum-nut...colate-5-lbs-1

I'll get with you later in the day with more

The center console hinge point on the cup holder has the hinge ears breaking off and can be rebuilt with some JBweld with some reinforcing threads to give it strength , just need a bamoo stick for a mold in rebuilding the ears

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/X300/13Body/13-33%20Damaged%20Cupholder.pdf

There is a steering rack index mark as you attach the column shaft to be verified

See page X of the doc below

http://jenniskens.livedsl.nl/Technic...F%20BMW%20.pdf

Yours will probably have the speed dependent variable steering servo attached which dampens your steering throws with speed

The control module is on the drivers left foot area

See page 19 in doc below

 

Thanks for all your help before, during and now acquiring the car!

 

Answering my own question about keys I found this useful looking info:

https://www.triple-c.com/How_To_Read..._Key_Codes.cfm

 

Thanks, greatly appreciated! I drove the car fro Portland Oregon to the Bay Area yesterday and tootled around the Portland area the previous day (visited the museum of speed there, highly recommend!).
I was pretty jittery about having bought a bag of problems but was delighted with the way the car ran all the way down I5, and was tempted to push it but had to check myself until I've had a good look over it, didn't want to have issues 500 miles from home with a relatively rare car. Very impressed with the torque band and acceleration from 60 to 100, I was cruising at 90 a lot more than I should have but it felt effortless to the car!

 

Thanks for the key link as I need a second one

For future information the US X300 models do not have a chip but the rest of world does have this immobilizer transponder chip

https://www.triple-c.com/zcaGO/zFile...FDD36534DCBD23

The ignition switch is removable from the key barrel

 

One more question if I may - when attempting to start the car the park position on the gearbox has some sort of switch in it that prevents the car turning over. The PO told me this was a minor issue, if I jiggle the gearshift or put it into neutral and back to park it starts after a bit of undignified futzing. Before I dive into this any insights on what to look for would be warmly appreciated. I have the 'good' gearbox with no delay between P & D and it was shifting flawlessly.

 

Some one has the same issue on the inline 6 as the same starter circuit on the V12

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-crank-221336/

I opened up this rotary switch on a salvage car to inspect the contacts before mailing off to someone

The original o - ring that does not fit in the o - ring groves because of expansion can be clipped of a bit of legth on the bottom portion

There is a separate linear switch which gives you the lights and there is issues with this and a superseded replacement part #

 

What's the best point to jack up the front against so I can inspect the steering and front suspension? I'm too good at finding out I tweaked something underneath I didn't see and these are complex cars. I'm assuming get it up then put it on two jackstands at the body jack points.

Thx

 

Its a heavy car so a center of the suspension point may over rate your jack , ask me how I know

On the rear , the left and right jack square attach tubes pointing out , I painted the rubber caps white to give it class

Will have to look at the front in a bit

 

We need pictures!

 

+1, Pictures!!

You did well to wait and search out the right car. Sounds like it has been good so far. Glad you got the upgraded transmission. Many miles and many smiles ahead!

A 2-ton floor jack should lift the front with no troubles. Park brake on!! You will want to place a flat block of wood between the jack and the center crossmember, which is shown in Parker's picture above. Only difficulty is that the car is so low it can be tricky to get them into position. Then get jack stands at each point behind the wheels, and lower a bit for a solid 3-point lift.

Pulling to the side can be caused by the tires alone, if they are worn. They may be unevenly worn because of the bad alignment, in which case they might not ever track straight again. Aside from actually worn out parts, the toe is one of the most important adjustments to get the car to go straight. Adjustable at the tie-rods.

The second piece of the inner sunroof liner sometimes gets stuck back in the channel. You'll have to get a flexible grabber or two and pull it out a little at a time. It will come out easier if it is in correct alignment. I think... it is supposed to be attached to the rear of the sunroof main liner by metal clips, which can come loose.

Good man. Get to those fuel lines under the engine cover sooner rather than later. Snug up the coolant hose clamps (there are many), but be careful with the upper radiator inlets, they may be weaker than they should be.

I recently had my console apart to clean and lube the linear switch and Park microswitch. The gear indicator works much better now. It was a bit too involved to remove the linear switch so I cleaned it in place the best I could with contact cleaner spray. That should resolve your difficulty with the P indicator.

It is heart-warming to see this fresh, new beginning after the tragedy that came upon Nick's @NTL1991 XJ12 in June. Can you match this shot??


Cosmics! Gone but not forgotten. RIP

Best wishes for SAFE travels. Don't neglect your tires.....

Pictures!!

 

G'day Oliver,

My car pulls slightly to the left. It may be that your car pulls to the right because you drive on the RHS of the road and mine pulls left because where I live we drive on the LHS of the road.

Most roads are cambered for rain drainage purposes, go find a deserted road and drive your car on the "wrong" side and see which way it pulls. If it still pulls to the right then you definitely have some wear in your front end. If it pulls to the left then it's normal. A wheel alignment workshop will probably be able to locate the problem.

Cheers,
Jeff

 

Hi Jeff
Definitely front end issues, it is pulling to right all the time. Haven't gone under yet to carry on your antipodean analogies but will be doing that this week to have a gander...

 

Roof has issues

Steering wheel, center console and seat wear

A couple of in-progress pictures after a day of inspection, gathering up random bits before vacuuming, a lot of interior and paint cleaning. I'll condition the leather in next few days, got it clean enough now.
There was some kind of weird very sticky coating on the entire roof which I wound up taking off with 'goo gone', followed by a lot of washing, scrubbing and trials with cutting compound. I'm going to wind up painting it to get an even finish and clearing it, so it's going to need some sanding. The other areas of the car that are dulled can probably be cleaned up with a touch up gun where needed for dings, scrapes and rear parking rash, and a lot of clearing over scuffed dulled clear.

Does anyone have the paint code - there are lots of blacks, would be good to know the match.

I've retrieved the rear section of the sunroof which looks as though it needs cables which aren't there, does anyone know where the sunroof drains are I'd like to test them to make sure they run through.

I've had a good look a the engine but haven't touched anything yet, next up is hoses and a good cleaning from above looking for leaks and issues, will follow this up with a good look from below of the entire car this week.

 

The color codes are on the door sticker both exterior and interior colors

The moderator just gave me a good paint match source including spray cans , quarts , gallons and touch up brush bottles

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ations-220110/

On mine by super cleaning the car of all wax exposed the clearcoat the speed up its deterioration with no wax

Will be doing what your doing in repairing the paint

Found this at Eastwood and is probably a good 2 part clear coat as a block in process before claybar or buffing wheel

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-aeros...ear-26897.html

See the little picture boxes on the page

I'll probable do the British flag on the roof since it has to be addressed and the rest of the car is original Nautical Blue / Green mica




Personally I would change and test before installing a coolant temp switch and test the fan control by jumpering the connector

There is a thing about properly filling the coolant system on the V12 having to do with the header

 

Great! I love the darker colors on this car. Black paint code = PDT. Cream interior code = NDR.

My nod to the car's British heritage is just a little more subtle:

 

Your color looks like mine and the headlights can be swapped out with much superior looking X308, commonly done

The wheels can be stripped of old clearcoat with one quart high quality paint stripper for all 5 , at the auto parts store

Polishing the old clearcoat doesn't get what you want , ask me how I know

you can try the spare tire and no tire removal from the wheel needed , washes off with soap and water

 

Do you have a source for the emblem ?