That would be news to me as I never had a problem in squirting penetrating oil inside the spark plug wells. As I had mentioned previously,, with the aluminum block engines, I would typically allow that penetrating oil to set overnight before attempting to remove the plugs. Actually, that all seemed to work for me. Well, to each his own I suppose, but I sure don't fancy myself staring down at stripped threads. Believe me, something like that would hardly be a rare event with these aluminum block engines.

 

I'm a big fan of penetrating sprays but generally, I only use them when conventional elbow grease isn't the answer so I'll have to wait and see. But, while we're on the subject is there a good source (or part number) for replacing rusted-out hardware? Recently, I had to remove the rear bumper cover to replace a parking sensor and some of the U-nut clips that held it on were so bad I had to cut them off. I was able to find smaller sizes to replace the rusted ones on the underbody splash guards but not these.

 

Front right coil on my 2004 XJR hits the shock tower a couple inches before it could come out. I really don’t see how to get it out with the engine in place. Any tips? Thanks

 

pull harder it has just enough flex to come out

the 2006 updated coils don’t have this problem they slide in and out with no issue.

 

I concur, I did not have a problem removing it also on my early SV8, built in September 2003.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

I had no issues with my 2004 NA.

 

You were right. Just took a bit of force. The new Beru ones are narrower at the end and went in much more smoothly.
I took the whole cowl off for rear access which really isn’t a big deal.
Mission accomplished. Thanks again.

 

Hi I am formally Known as mlspratley driving a 2004 XJR (purchased new) with Brembo braking. I am now MSpratley.. lost my orginal email address was under AOL.
I am also interested in the best proven way to change the spark plugs and coils on my 2004 XJR. Over the years I could always purchase suspension/brakes/lights via Parts Geek or Rock Auto.

 

Bottom line: Can anyone list the specific and exact tools required to experience an uncomplicated spark plug changes for a 2004 XJR?

 

Take off the wiper arms. 13mm nuts. Wiper arm puller pops them off nicely. Disconnect the washer lines.

Take the ~10 plastic clips off the cowl with a screwdriver. Clip removal tool helps.
Remove the cowl - there’s one washer line by the cabin filter that you’ll have to disconnect.

Remove the little plastic panel on the side of the compartment that has the brake master in it - will need a screw driver and clip removal tool to remove the clips securing it - not great access, a bit fiddly, but you can get it out.

Pull off the engine cover with your hands. Straight up. Disconnect the vent line by the oil fill cap by squeezing and pulling, then put it out of the way - it’s a quick connect fitting - I left the fuel line in place and just worked around it. You can tell which is the fuel line because it connects to the metal fuel rail. Remove the dip stick. Remove the plastic covers on both sides that cover all the coils.

Disconnect the 8 electrical connectors on the coils. I used various screwdrivers and long picks to carefully push/lift the tabs securing them without breaking them. These can also be fiddly.

Remove the 8mm bolts holding down the coils. Might need to disconnect the PCV saucer lookin thing with two 8mm bolts as well, just so you can push it out of the way - don’t really need to remove it. Same for the bracket on the other side of the engine supporting the AC lines - 8mm bolt - just so you can move those lines out of the way a little. Pull the coils.

Blow out the spark plug tubes and the surrounding area with air to help ensure no dirt drops into the cylinders while you’re changing the plugs. Need an air compressor and an airgun for that. Maybe a leaf blower would work.

Unscrew the spark plugs with a 5/8” spark plug socket. I like the magnetic style. I used a maybe a 4” extension + u joint + 1” extension for most of them. Torque the new ones to 20ftlb. The coil bolts are 53 inlb. As they say, installation is reverse of removal. Wiper arm nuts are 13ftlb. I got all the torque values from an X350 service manual I found posted for free somewhere online. It’s really not horrid if you’re not in a rush. Good luck!

Edit: This write up is better:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/xj-xj6-xj8-xjr-x350-x358-28/changing-spark-plugs-how-104935/