Today will be the 3rd time I replace the oil sump gasket. I used both the Jaguar part and also the after market Victor Reinz gasket. Either the gaskets don't hold up or I am doing something wrong. It is *definitely* not coming from the top - it leaks throughout the perimeter of the sump.

I clean things really good and always torque the bolts in the correct pattern to the specified torque per the factory manual. Is there a trick or something that I am not aware of?

 

Your sump pan may be warped from previous over torquing of bolts.

 

Ditto on the above.

You can always clean it off and lay it flat on a piece
of glass to determine the truth.

Did you go back and retorque after several heat/cool
cycles?

I know it's not called for, but it may help.

I see in the engine repair manual that it is an "in groove" gasket.

Maybe it is coming out of the groove as you fit the pan.
I would fill the groove with heavy grease before fitting the
gasket so that it holds the gasket in place while fitting.

 

Awesome guys! Thank you!

Once I put the sump cover over a piece of glass it was ultra obvious that it was not straight. Upon closer inspection, I realized that the cover had a crease.

I took my auto body hammers and worked the crease it out and got the cover to lay flat on the glass but, at the end, I decided to order a new one from Gaudin.

So the mystery leak is now solved.

 

I think I may have the same thing going on. How much is the replacement pan?

 

I know you said you know it's not coming from above the pan, but I change the oil filter stand gasket on these engines a lot. I think the gasket is like $17 also. It's in the form of an "8".

 

Well, I thought it was $74 at Gaudin but they told me the price was incorrect on their website; the part was superseded and is now close to $400!!

I found a used one on eBay.

 

I shall take a closer look. Thanx!

 

A while back I had the same issue. Even though yours was a bent pan it's worth repeating.

My leak came from loose bolts in the pan. The bolts as fitted from the factory do not have any thread sealer on them. Over 150,000km mine started to work loose creating a small leak.

When I checked them, some bolts where loose to the touch.
Initially I just removed all the bolts and torqued them in order and to spec.
This resolved the issue while I waited for a pan gasket which took 3 weeks to get to OZ

I replaced the gasket once it arrived and used low strength loctite to prevent a recurrence

Cheers
34by151

 

Sorry. There seems to be some miscommunication.

I meant that the face of the pan that mates to the engine
should be laid on the glass. That is the one that has to be
flat.

 

That was understood. The face of the pan that mates to the engine was not flat. It was bowed.

 

BTW have you taken the car to a different mechanic recently

From the second Pic (underside of pan) it looks like the car was jacked by the pan. The crease looks like a block of wood was placed between the pan and a trolley jack or a block and post was used on a hoist to hold up the engine.
Did you have some mounts replaced or trans work done?

Cheers
34by151

 

I would try silicone without a gasket on the sump before buying another for $400!

 

Ha. Probably self inflicted. I am the mechanic. But, it was leaking before that! I swear!...

I did support the engine from the top. The block was there for additional safety.

 

I got a used on from ebay. We'll see what happens.

 

Well that explains it then.
Leak could not have been too bad at that point as the bolts don't seem covered in oil. Unless its the ones hidden in the pic.

Id give it a go straightening the pan first but here in oz it would take 3-4 weeks to get a new one. All depends on price

Id use the pan as a template and drill out some flat plate
From the scrap flatbar to go over the bolt holes (outside of the pan)
Give a bit of heat and torque it down working from the crease line out

A couple of goes would have it back in shape

All depends on access to a new pan and price

Cheers
34by151

 

So I got a used oil pan from eBay but it, too, was slightly bent. Not as bad as the original one but enough to where it make me get my little hammer out and straighten it out.

I cleaned the surfaces well and put a thin layer of ultra black gasket maker on the pan itself in addition to the rubber gasket that goes in between the pan and the block.

I used the two stage torquing procedure outlined in page 341 of the power train manual. Will let it sit overnight before putting oil





The used one is not quite straight





Worked it with the hammer on the side that was lifted.





Cleaned the surface





Thin layer of ultra black gasket maker





Gasket installed in the block





All buttoned up

 

Hi Lagonia,

I wonder if you still have the Jag and if the fix hold up?...I am having the same issue..with mine but I don't think my pan is bowed. Thinking of putting some gasket maker as well

 

Still have the Jag - the pan was a red-herring - the leak comes from the front engine cover and finds its way to the pan. I learned to live with the leak for now - if it gets worse, I will have to deal with it. Having over 10 cars to play with I have to pick and choose my battles....

 

What do you mean front engine cover and finds its way to the pan? is the source of leak came from elsewhere but ended looking like the pan is leaking?