Thanks Norri!

 

Well, I began looking at the problem this afternoon. The first thing that I did was to remove the electrical connector from the fuel injector to the No. 3 cylinder, and the two pins that were attached to the fuel injector itself measured 15.2 ohms so the solenoid to that injector isn't open at least. The two pins could be cleaned up a little as they seem to be a little tarnished so that's what I'm doing now.

 

Thanks for the update Rick.
What should it read, anyone know offhand?

Was that reading on the harness side or the injector itself? Just want to understand.

Did you check the reading against another cylinder by chance?

 

Thanks for the reply Sean. The reading was to the two pins of the No. 3 fuel injector itself. No, I didn't give an adjacent fuel injector a reading as the electrical connector retainer broke off as I was removing it from the No. 3 fuel injector. I didn't want a similar fate to happen again. There's something with these Jag electrical connector retainers as they're a piece of crap in my opinion. Well, I cleaned up the two pins to the No. 3 fuel injector, and slapped everything back together. Now it's time for a little test drive.

 

Well, I just came back from a 22 mile test drive. After the first 3 miles, the tachometer appeared to have suddenly climbed slightly for an instant, but the car otherwise performed flawlessly for the rest of the cruise. In fact, it idled nicely at the stop lights, and had plenty of pep. With that kind of performance, there's nothing more that I can really do with the car (at this time). I previously cleaned up the two pins to the No. 3 fuel injector so that certainly couldn't have hurt. With only 12VDC applied to those pins, it doesn't take much at all to break a connection. Now that I have a better electrical connection to the injector solenoid, perhaps the solenoid would be functioning equally as well. Time will tell. Thanks.

 

Glad to hear it Rick. Nice work. Did you clear the light/code or did it go out on it's own?

 

I erased the code before I took the car out for the test drive. Well, we'll see what happens. Thanks all.

 

Understood and thanks for the update again Rick. If that was your issue and you got at it first, congrats and nice work.

If the light comes on again and you move on to the next test, please don't clear the code. It should clear itself. Annoying, I know but it's worth getting through the drive cycle to know for sure.

Here's to hoping you never see the error code again

 

Well, the following day (Friday), I did clean up the two pins to the No. 3 fuel injector much better using a small file that I brought along with me. So, the first trial run after that began yesterday when I drove the Jaguar back home last night under hazardous winter weather conditions. In fact, I had to climb up the incline of my mother's icy driveway with nothing but radials on the Jaguar. Thanks to the traction control, I made it out of the driveway without much trouble at all on the first pass. To make matters worse, the roads and expressway were very slick last night. In fact, they were snow covered with black ice underneath. Through it all, the Jaguar performed marvelously, but it was a miracle that I even made that 11 mile journey back home as I could have easily had gotten the Jag stuck. Actually, it was a matter of sheer luck and timing. Today, I was told by my sister that the roads had gotten so bad that even those with 4 wheel drives were slipping and sliding. Well, for now, I'm going to stay put until the roads are back to normal as we had something like 6" of snow or better since yesterday evening.

 

Hi Rick. Curious to know, did the pin cleaning resolve the issue? Still no waring light?

 

Well, after all this time, I finally managed to return to the problem today. I took off what appears to be the coil pack to the No. 3 cylinder, and I could measure no resistance whatsoever between the coil pack ground (where the mounting bolt attaches to) and the spring inside the tubular portion of the coil pack which attaches to the No. 3 spark plug.

The coil pack was a 4-pin Denso (Made in Japan) 2W93-12A366-BA. This is where I'm at right now. Without an electrical diagram of the coil pack layout before me, I'm assuming that the secondary of the coil pack is open, but I could be wrong. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

You can find both the electrical diagrams and the service manual here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

You can download the wiring diagram and the service manual here Rick:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

It still may be easier to swap out the coil pack with another cylinder and see if the code moves with it.

 

Well, I just got through swapping the cylinder No. 1 coil pack with the cylinder No. 3 coil pack. If the problem is with the No. 3 coil pack, the error code should transfer over to the No. 1 cylinder.

I didn't bring the code reader with me to my parents' place today so I couldn't clear the codes afterwards. I could have disconnected the battery, but my car is blocked anyway as my sister is working on her Jeep.

When I return to my parents' place tomorrow, I'll bring the code reader with me and clear the codes. Then we'll see what happens.

I did take resistance values of both coil packs, and there is a slight discrepancy between them. Of course, I'm liable to find out quick enough tomorrow.

Thanks Sean!

 

Fixed! The ignition coil that originally went to the No. 3 cylinder was indeed defective (just as I suspected yesterday). As you know, I swapped that ignition coil with the ignition coil to the No. 1 cylinder and the error code afterwards transferred to the No. 1 cylinder.

I picked up another ignition coil at NAPA today, and installed it to the No. 1 cylinder. I could tell that the problem disappeared as I could detect no miss after I started up the engine. Afterwards, I took the car for a test drive, and it performed flawlessly.

Now, since the car was missing for so long, would it hurt to pick up a can of catalytic converter cleaner, and pour it into the gas tank?

 

Outstanding Rick. Nice work. Congratulations.

 

I would not do that. If the PCM knew the cyl was misbehaving then it will probably have shut off the cyl so no harm was done. If it was unsure and kept putting in fuel then the unreliably burned fuel&air burned in the cat. Any damage that causes is not recoverable so an additive would be pointless AND MIGHT not be harmless in itself.

Fortunately the OE cats are REALLY GOOD quality in my experience so you're probably OK.

 

Okay, thanks for the advice. The car runs great!

 

There is one other thing, but this is purely cosmetic. When I attempted to install the engine top valve cover back on (which was secured by four black plastic Phillips head clips), one of those four black plastic clips came out. I searched for that clip, but I was never able to retrieve it. Can you guys tell me where I can pick up another one of those clips? Thus far, I haven't been able to locate one. Thanks!

 

Pull the clip and bring it to a Ford Dealership. I can't recall what it specifically looks like but my XK has fasteners supplied by any Ford dealer on the cheap.