Ok so I changed all four struts and the compressor and the relay.

Car will not raise up.........compressor does not even kick in.......what is stopping that.

What am I missing.

Don't tell me to drive it around because right now the car is lower than a race car..........

Im getting a car too low on dash board.

 

Do you have a cement driveway, parking lot, or side street to drive slow on?
If not movement back, & forth should work.
After being put into jack mode from installing the shocks.
The car will realize it needs to turn the compressor on.to raise the car.

 

Here's an update.......Im getting B2810 code which is air suspension vent solenoid circuit failure.

I understand that the solenoid is part of the compressor.

I put a new compressor in yesterday which Im hoping is not faulty.......so I need to check that.

I think my problem is elsewhere though.

I think something is stopping the car from going into the correct mode and pumping up the suspension.
What could do that......

Ive got car sucking out a bunch of data right now.......ill try and post that later . I can drive the car twenty feet forward and back, that's all I can do right now. I did that and that b2810 code came up......I cleared it and drove back and forwards again and the code did not come back, but suspension still doing nothing........

So far my advise to anyone who needs to fix this suspension......junk them and go for the regular strut mod.......I wish I had now...... OK......what a time to find out that the icarsoft will not work with Macs..........I often wonder why companies think there is only one type of computer out there.

 

Check the fuse?

 

Compressor fuse is good.......any others that may not be that obvious ?

 

I'm almost as curious as you are to figure out what is wrong..
The relay maybe, but i doubt it.

 

ok had to go old school

Anyone see anything amiss

accelerator sensors supply......4.58v
damper firm battery voltage out of range.....no
damper firm error....no
damper firm lateral acceleration.....no
damper firm longitudinal acceleration......no
damper firm long wave......no
damper firm low velocity vehicle......yes
damper front firm and rear soft.....no
front left damper status....15
front right damper status.....15
damper front soft and rear firm....no
damper left firm and right soft......no
damper left soft and right firm.....no
rear left damper status.....15
rear right damper status......15
front vertical acceleration.....0.10 g
rear vertical acceleration....0.10g
brake fluid hydraulic pressure....11 bar
control module status.....operational mode
number of permanent diagnostic trouble codes.... -100.39
steering wheel angle.....14.80'
calculated external temperature....9.50 c
barometric pressure.....100 kpa
compressor status......OFF...<<<<<<<<<<< why and what changes this to on........
front left height sensor....102 mm
front right height sensor... -61 mm
rear left height sensor... -64mm
rear right height sensor..... -71 mm
height sensor supply voltage 1 .....5.00 volts
height sensor supply voltage 2 ......5 volts
lateral acceleration......0g
levelling in progress status....no
pressure sensor supply.........5.10 volts
exhaust solenoid status......closed
front left damper solenoid valve output control.....closed
front right damper solenoid valve output control......closed
reservoir solenoid status......closed
rear left damper solenoid valve output.....closed
rear right damper solenoid valve output control.......closed
vehicle speed....0 kph
battery voltage. 11.06 volts
pressure sensor......1.80 bar
engine speed 0 rpm...

 

relay was replaced

 

Battery voltage is a bit low. Put a charger on to bring the voltage up to 12.5+. Compressor should come on.

 

11.06 Volt!
Far too low, either completely discharged or gone.

 

battery was charged prior to seeing if I could get bags to pump up.........Ill give it another charge and see........

 

Should be at 13 or very close minimum

 

Charged battery this morning and got it up to 13 something volts.......still no joy.
battery voltage is healthy so I don't think it is that.

something is stopping the compressor from kicking in..

any one know a way I can force it to kick in and see what happens......... I live on a complex and from my parking spot I can drive forwards and backwards 20-30 feet , with this driving thing how far and how fast do you have to drive.

Im beginning to wonder now that I need to get it in the car park and actually get up to a bit of speed and with some distance......anyone know if there is a set speed distance that you have to do......not looking forward to doing a 100 point turn to get car out of parking spot........lol.

 

Try starting the engine first it may then rise.

If not move the car backwards and forwards as much as you can.

I don't think there is a set speed but it could be up to 20 mins of driving.

 

not rising on start up at all, ill try getting it out of my space and doing 20 mins of back and forth.

to me though that seems a weird thing to do to get bags to pump up.......a 20 min drive on bump stops is not only uncomfortable but can't do the car any good.

Im surprised there isn't some sort of reset method built in other than ...'take the car for a drive'.......thank goodness we don't have to do that to get the brake fluid up to the correct pressure....lol.

From what I've read it appears the car is stuck in jacking mode......that was a bad idea from the get go.......

 

Try a hard reset, it can't hurt.

 

Thats a new one on me, how does one do a hard reset.......?

 

Think the compressor should come on around 2 minutes after starting car, also the car needs to be doing 25mph for compressor to run when driving.
My suspension went awol a couple of weeks back, replaced compressor piston ring (guy on ebay) and also found front near side strut had actually blown out - this was also replaced.
When I lowered the car from the jack I ran the engine with the wheel around 350mm centre to front mudguard, when I then lowered it completely off the jack it stayed up - maybe worth trying jacking one corner up so that the suspension is partly extended - guess it may be something to do with height sensors

 

A hard reset is when one disconnects the battery cables.
Waits a couple min, then touches them together.
Or just disconnect the negative cable, wait,then touch it to the positive cable.

 

Check ALL these fuses, if you haven't and replace the F6 Air Compressor one even if it looks good. The F14 is not likely for the compressor solenoid, but worth exchanging in your situation. I thing the F12 in the trunk is a REALLY important fuse to check, and exchange even if it looks good.

Engine compartment fuse box
F6 40A Air suspension compressor
F14 10A Purge valve, EGR valve, DMTL, V6 intake manifold tuning valves (IMTV), MAFS, air filter solenoid, radiator fan controller

Trunk compartment fuse box
F12 10A Air suspension <-- I did NOT see this fuse mentioned anywhere in the thread. Sorry if I missed it and you have already checked it out.

If you do a battery hard reset ans Wingrider explained (and you have good motivation to try it in your scenario) use the Battery Reconnect list I follow every time. Not just for window anti-pinch, but for the EPB and especially for the throttle re-calibration.

Jaguar XJ8 Battery Reconnection Instructions

1) Insure that no key is in the ignition.
2) Do not over tighten the pinch bolts.
3) Slacken the negative lead pinch bolt and disconnect the negative (-) battery lead.
4) Clean the battery posts and coat the post with petroleum jelly.
5) Ensure the vent tube is connected and free from kink or damage.
6) Connect the positive (+) lead, tighten the pinch bolt and clip the positive terminal cover on the battery.
7) Connect the negative (-) lead and tighten the pinch bolt.

After Reconnecting the Battery

1) After the battery has been reconnected and the ignition switch is turned to position II, the message center display, will initially show an erroneous reading i.e. - - - - - - . This will remain until the bulb check sequence has completed, when the correct recorded mileage will be displayed. This is a normal function of the instrument cluster.
2) Reset the electric parkbrake.
a. The message APPLY PARKBRAKE will be displayed when the ignition is switched on.
b. Depress the footbrake and pull the parkbrake switch up to apply the parkbrake. This is required to reset the parkbrake system which will now function properly
3) Reset the electrically operated windows anti-trap function.
a. Fully close the window, hold the switch in the close position for 2 seconds and then release the switch. Wait for 2 seconds, do not open the window.
b. Again, select the same window to close, holding the switch for a further 2 seconds.
c. Check to confirm the operation by opening the window and then use the one-touch operation to close the window.
d. Repeat steps a through c for the remaining electrically operated windows.
4) Radio Codes not required on US Cars. Don't know about ROW vehicles.
5) Reset the analog clock on the dashboard to the correct time.

Here is one item I just uncovered in the last year, and it corrected a trottle calibration issue I had with Torque Pro OBD2 Code reader.

After battery re-connection, the engine management system must ‘re-learn’ the limits of throttle pedal travel.

Setting WOT,covered in JTP939
Re-programming is done with the ignition switch in position II a follows:
Slowly press the accelerator pedal fully through the kickdown detent to the floor. Hold 5 seconds
Release the pedal and repeat the action.