Jaguar XJR 350 2004.
Having problems with the ABS light and DSC not available on all the time carried out SDD diagnostics C1235 and its recommendations checking out the wiring and including replacing speed sensor. I could not see any problems with the reluctor rings or the air gap decided to give them a good wire brush and scrape out all the little holes. Problem still there.
I am left with the ABS module as the problem.
My car is fitted with ATE module.
I purchased an inexpensive but guaranteed all in working ATE module from eBay which they say is suitable for my car though apparently there is come off a S type R.
Although physically identical part numbers are different.
I plugged it into the wiring harness anyway (but not connected hydraulically) and turning on the ignition ABS light disappeared though DSC not available warning still illuminated (maybe need to run the car for this disappear).
So a strong indicator my ABS unit is the problem.
On checking the web there seems to be a big variation in part numbers for ATE modules for these Jaguar models, but all say they're suitable for Jaguar S type R and XJR 350.
So does anyone know what are the differences?
The unit fitted to my car has a Jaguar number DSC 4W93-2C219-BE. ATE part number which I understand is the important one is 10.0925-1009 .3
The unit I purchased number is as follows DSC 2 W93-2C2 19-PC. ATE number 10.0925-1007.3.

Any advice gratefully received.
Bill.

 

Open up the old one and look for cracked solder joint around the two large connector pins. Common issue with these modules.

 

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I had this same problem on my previous 2001 VDP. I removed the module and sent it off to an outfit that opened it up, resoldered the two power supply connections, and resealed the module. But in hindsight, it probably would not have been hard to do myself. You just need to split the case without damaging the circuit board inside. Also, depending on the model, it might be tough to get the module out past the brake lines without bending them.

 

Thanks for the replies.
I decided to swap over the electronic modules pretty easy on an XJ350. With the electronic module of I decided to check to see if the motor would run. On this model of ABS unit the ABS motor connections are internal by way of a long plug from the back of the PC board, it passes through the aluminum body and connects to a socket in the motor. I managed to pass wires down to the socket in the motor and yes it runs.
Does the motor run continuously or only when needed?
Turned on the ignition started the car ABS light goes out DSC remains on.
Drove the car within a quarter of a mile ABS back and DSC on.
But I can't be certain of that second-hand unit, and there is the mismatch in part numbers.
It does look like I'm back at the beginning.

 

Hi Bill,

If I understand the above, you have replaced the left rear wheel speed sensor with a new one but still have the C1235 code?

The next suspect would be the wiring harness between the sensor and the ABS module. Testing Hall Effect sensors is more complicated than the older permanent magnet types, but since there are three electrical connectors in the circuit in addition to the ones at the sensor and the module, it would be worth cleaning all of those. Their locations are given on the page before Figure 5.1 (pdf page 73) of the Electrical Guide:

2004 X350 Electrical Guide

To test the wiring harness for an intermittent break, disconnect the ABS module electrical connector and the wheel speed sensor. Put a jumper across the two terminals in the wiring harness for the sensor. Set your meter to its lowest ohms range (e.g. 200 ohms), and attach the test probes to pins 36 (White/Red wire) and 37 (Brown/Red wire) at the ABS module connector. Position the meter where you can see it from the left rear wheel well. Flex the sensor wiring harness every inch or so along its length and watch the meter for any sudden jumps to infinite resistance/overload. If you see a jump, you've found a break in a wire, which is a common issue and usually easily repaired with some solder, a short piece of wire to bridge the gap, and some heat shrink tubing or electrician's tape.

Cheers,

Don