Recently developed a pulse while braking, so performed a pad and rotor change on the front axle.

Thanks to forums members for advice, etc. in performing this job. Here are a few pics and part numbers for review.

Used the Akebono EUR938 ceramics for pads and the Eurospares C2C8355R.

Ordered the pads from Autozone; delivered to house for about $80.

Ordered the rotors from eBay (parts container) for about $166 delivered.

 

Please see the following photos:
Old rotors and brakes
Caliper and old pads
Pad clip (spring) and pins
Caliper removed
Old rotor Pistons ready to be compressed
New rotor with caliper reinstalled
New rotor passenger side

Tip: Had a difficult time with the car on jack stands to get enough torque to remove the caliper bolts. Ended up purchasing a 800ft lb. air impact wrench at Home Depot. This tool removed the bolts with ease.

 

Nice one, good job thanks for sharing............presumably stops a whole lot better now?

 

Still breaking it in gently, only done 40 miles or so since, but yes. A whole lot better now...

-mag

 

Added to that

For those without a compressor you can get a manual impact drive for about 20 bucks

Here are some pics I found
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...erWithBits.png

And how to use
http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster...driver_lg.jpeg

For those looking to purchase an impact wrench (rattle gun) a few points
Most cheep ones especially are mostly a copy of the classic Chicago Pneumatic (CP) units have only 230Mm of torque
This is ok for wheel nuts but they runs out of steam very quickly

Compare the copy at 230Nm or less to the CP original that has 576Nm (425Lbs)
My low power rattle gun is the CP734H - 1/2

However I also have the CP7748 ½ that puts out 1250Nm (921Lbs)

Anyway you get what you pay for in this case
There are some good copies out there but look for the output and the number of impacts

More than once I have easily taken out a bolt with a few blows my manual impact tool where an ebay copy rattle gun had no chance of getting off the bolt, even with turning up the air supply well over 90psi

Oh yeah another tick of copies is to quote the the operating pressure at the std 90psi and rate the torque at 145 psi

For most other air tools you can get away with copies but for a rattle gun you get what you pay for.
If you buy only one genuine air tool make it a the rattle gun from a company like CP or IR or the like

While I think of it another trick to get rid of water in the lines is to fit an old AC condenser between the compressor head and the check valve on the compressor. This drops the air temp quite a lot and allows the water to separate so it can be picked up by your water trap and in the tank

Here a good link

Cheers
34by151

 

So, looking at your pics, even though you have brembo brakes, you did not have the drilled rotors? Or were they replaced with regular rotors at some point in the past?

I wonder how much of a difference in braking performance do drilled vs. non-drilled rotors have.

 

None at all in normal use. But drilled add a risk of shattering.

 

Update... It's been about 400 miles or so and the front brake and rotors replacement seems a success.

Wanted to add support to those who recommend the akebono ceramic pads.

Have a look at these pics showing front wheels (ceramic pads) and the rear wheels (oem style) pads.

For illustrative purposes, I did a "finger swipe" on the rim to highlight the level of dust.

Now if the rears weren't only 6 months old, I would be placing ceramics there too!!


The wheels had been cleaned about 250 miles prior to the pics.

 

Nice job!

 

I went with Akebono for the exact same reason you mention - no brake dust. I don't notice any difference in braking vs standard pads, but the wheels are a whole lot cleaner. Now if I can just teach my wife to not hit the curbs...

 

Well it's been a couple months.

Not excited with the front rotors and discoloration on the 'hat', so I did some spring cleaning, or painting as it were....

Functionally great, cosmetically iffy.

Here are some pics. Enjoy -mag

 

Yah, I will always by the rotors with the 'hats' and exterior edge of the disc with a coating already baked on. I see you didn't do the perimeter of the rotor...maybe it wasn't as visible to the naked eye.