I know Jaguar says the trans fluid is lifetime but mine is approaching 50,000.

What is the consensus?

Change or let it be?

Eddie

 

Change it. Definitely change it.

 

Thanks for the reply.

When should it be changed"
What fluid? Has anyone found an acceptable substitute for the Esso LT 71141?

There is no dipstick. How do you know when you have added the proper amount?

Anyone?

 

The discussion and controversy is endless around here on fluid...Royal Purple, Jag only...you name it, theres a debate on it.

If you try a search, you'll see lots of threads on the subject. You can also find the fluid in bulk if you look around on the internet. Someone said VW has the exact same fluid as what jag uses, just in a different labled jug. (and cheaper)

Good luck, and i'm in the 'change it' category as well.

 

This debate is like asking a group if you believe in a God. I did a fluid change in my jag after 74K miles and fluid came out almost the same color as it went in. I used Pentison ATF1 and you can buy it for about $60 for 5 liters. It's cheaper to buy it in bulk. I have about 400 miles since and no problems. A drain will only remove about 4-5 liters of the 11 in the trans. I don't think I would do it again. Even ZF states you only need to change the fluid if you are racing or driving very fast often for long periods of time. In those conditions you should change it every 80-120km. Thats about 74.5K miles.

 

Drew,

I agree with you and like the way you put it - like believing in God. Unfortunately, it shouldn't be this way. Seal for life is a marketing issue, not a technical one, yet everyone crosses that line and tries to crack the technical mystery. Car companies want to advertise a maintenance free car to their customers which are the first buyers. The average first buyer keeps the car for about 4 years or 50K miles. Jaguar offers to that customer only, a pretty free ride. Seal for life legally stops at the end of warranty and does not apply to 2nd, 3rd owners, etc. unless they bought before warranty end.

There is little new in transmission technology in the 5 and 6 speed ZFs, just the addition of synthetic lubricants. Nothing magic and no magic fluids, just exclusive marketing agreements between ZF and Esso.

ZF position on fluid flush intervals has changed recently because, like any poorly maintained transmission, the failure rates on ZFs are unusually high after 50K miles to 100K miles because too many are thinking seal for life means you never have any maintenance, ever.

 

I think under normal conditions that you don't have to change the fluid. If you drive a car 10-15K miles a year, a transmission normally will not last over 15 years. Most rear wheel transmission last about 150K even with a perfect maintenance record. (just my opinion and experiences) I think ZFs position is the clutches will wear out before the fluid gets bad. If you drive more or less it changes all of the above. I believe the biggest factor is how u drive. To many people beat cars when they are cold.

 

Beleive me, I did extensive searching and the opinions and answers are all over the map.

If you do change it how do you put in the right amount of fluid with no dipstick? Do you just put back the same amount you take out?

Anyone used the Amsoil Universal ATF? Give me some specifics.

This is as bad as antifreeze debates.

 

The routine is normally to add the same amount you took out, then bring the transmission up to operating temperature, (checked using the diagnostic system), then use the level plug to check it is full at the operating temperature. It is also necessary to cycle through all the gear settings. I have a Rover 75 with a Jatco (also fitted to X-types) and my mechanic took about 20 minutes to complete the job, and all is well since. Having said that I had a Mazda Xedos previously also with a Jatco, and never changed the fluid yet all was well when I sold the car at 128k.

No modern auto transmissions have dip-sticks. There is normally a filler plug somewhere on the transmission, plus the level plug. Some manufacturers sell a fill tube to be temporarily attached when changing the fluid, then taken off and the plug put back in on job completion.

 

Yah, there's a procedure on here somewhere which documents the correct process...temperature, everything. I just can't find it.

IT may be in the JTIS, haven't looked there.

 

On the 6 speed ZF (6HP26). It takes me about 30 minutes to get the correct fluid temperature and the correct fluid level. The fluid temperature is specific, 40 deg C. At 30 C ,the fluid is still too cold, at 50 C it is already too hot and has expanded to the point that more fluid than should spills and will leave the trans short of the correct amount. If you hit 50 c, you basically have to cap off the fill and wait until the fluid temps drop back down past 35C, then restart by adding more fluid. If you've done a few of these, all the steps become pretty automatic and the correct level is achieved on the first try.

I use a direct placement probe digital thermometer into the fluid which assures accurate fluid temp.

BTW - the 6HP26 holds 10 qts with an extra 1/2 qt in the cooler. The drain yields 7 1/2 qts, about 70% of the total. The 5HP24 only yields about 4 1/2 qts on the drain.

 

Guess my 04 F150 isn't modern. It has one.. My 06 Jeep has one.

 

Change it!!!!! dealer wont do it find a place you trust and witnes that its fulll dealer want you to by new trans at a 100k when you start complaining its slipping

 

KJL,

No need cleaning gunk ot of the pan. The pan is replaced with a new one on a ZF6HP26, the only way to change the filter which is integral to the plastic pan.

Your car uses the ZF5HP24. That pan can be cleaned and filter changed separately.

Also, the 6HP26 uses lifeguard 6 as a fluid replacement, a Shell derivative ATF formula, not the ESSO LT one used in the 5 speed.

Additional to your instructions - It is very important to attain the correct fluid level in the transmission (either 5 or 6 speed) which can only be done running and at temperature (40 deg C).