Coolant leak and overheating
#21
06-28-2013, 08:20 AM
#22
07-07-2013, 05:38 AM
#23
07-07-2013, 07:28 PM
All,
I replaced my cracked thermostat housing (both parts), as well as all coolant hoses (except the one that goes underneath the intake manifold). No more leaking, and it retains pressure (so everything is properly sealed). Also replaced the water pump while I was at it.
It looks like the intake manifold has to be removed to replace the one remaining hose, and according to the service manual, it is a 30-step removal process which I DON'T want to do. The good news is that the removal process has nothing to do with the process to replace the thermostat housing, so I won't be duplicating efforts when I go in to change that hose. If anyone has any suggestions on quick and easy manifold removal (just enough to swap out the coolant hose), that would be great!
Thanks,
I replaced my cracked thermostat housing (both parts), as well as all coolant hoses (except the one that goes underneath the intake manifold). No more leaking, and it retains pressure (so everything is properly sealed). Also replaced the water pump while I was at it.
It looks like the intake manifold has to be removed to replace the one remaining hose, and according to the service manual, it is a 30-step removal process which I DON'T want to do. The good news is that the removal process has nothing to do with the process to replace the thermostat housing, so I won't be duplicating efforts when I go in to change that hose. If anyone has any suggestions on quick and easy manifold removal (just enough to swap out the coolant hose), that would be great!
Thanks,
#25
07-07-2013, 08:13 PM
No real problem. After taking the throttle body out, it was easy except that the T30 Torx driver bit I used was short, such that when put in the driver (screwdriver type), the added thickness of the driver bottom was right at the lip of the intake manifold opening, so I had to put the T30 in at a slight angle, and was concerned about stripping the head. Luckily they came out, but I'm going to look for different T30 bits (longer and smaller diameter driver) for future use.
#26
03-20-2018, 09:31 PM
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Hi Gordon. Good questions and ones I encountered at the start or along the way.
I replaced the entire (plastic) thermostat housing assembly because I had a hairline crack too that was leaking coolant. Similar to you, I used JBWeld as a temporary fix. I found it easiest to remove the throttle body and then start removing bolts from the thermo assembly, working my way logically down to where the final pipe entered at the intake manifold.
That was the hardest part because some bolt heads are hard to get at. But patience, persistence and a variety of tools did the job for me. Because of the tight space, the two farthest back bottom two bolts of the thermo pipe entering the intake manifold were hardest to get off. Not having a small enough open ended wrench I started them off with a socket but then ran out of turning room and finished with a needle nosed pliers.
This final pipe that I'm talking about inserts into the rest of the thermostat housing, sealed not by any bolts but just by being tightly fitted against an O-ring. You'll be able to see what I mean and take it on and off your replacement assembly before installation. It might be possible to leave the old one on if it's too hard to get at and the replacement unit fits it. But while I was there I chose to do the somewhat painstaking work of replacing it (after all, it could fail down the road too). Ironically, since my water pump was bad without my knowing it, I thought I had gotten a bad new thermostat and had a replacement sent. Then I even ended up going with a different manufacturer, so all in all I replaced the whole thermostat assembly twice before I figured out the issue of my coolant not circulating was not the thermostat but the water pump. Go figure.
My hoses looked fine, but that's a good idea to be proactive in replacing yours while you have things torn apart. I hope that's helpful. Wish I had pics for you. Feel free to ask if you have more questions.
I replaced the entire (plastic) thermostat housing assembly because I had a hairline crack too that was leaking coolant. Similar to you, I used JBWeld as a temporary fix. I found it easiest to remove the throttle body and then start removing bolts from the thermo assembly, working my way logically down to where the final pipe entered at the intake manifold.
That was the hardest part because some bolt heads are hard to get at. But patience, persistence and a variety of tools did the job for me. Because of the tight space, the two farthest back bottom two bolts of the thermo pipe entering the intake manifold were hardest to get off. Not having a small enough open ended wrench I started them off with a socket but then ran out of turning room and finished with a needle nosed pliers.
This final pipe that I'm talking about inserts into the rest of the thermostat housing, sealed not by any bolts but just by being tightly fitted against an O-ring. You'll be able to see what I mean and take it on and off your replacement assembly before installation. It might be possible to leave the old one on if it's too hard to get at and the replacement unit fits it. But while I was there I chose to do the somewhat painstaking work of replacing it (after all, it could fail down the road too). Ironically, since my water pump was bad without my knowing it, I thought I had gotten a bad new thermostat and had a replacement sent. Then I even ended up going with a different manufacturer, so all in all I replaced the whole thermostat assembly twice before I figured out the issue of my coolant not circulating was not the thermostat but the water pump. Go figure.
My hoses looked fine, but that's a good idea to be proactive in replacing yours while you have things torn apart. I hope that's helpful. Wish I had pics for you. Feel free to ask if you have more questions.
#27
03-20-2018, 09:46 PM
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