I was thinking height sensor too but there may not be one on that side of the car depending on the year.

 

The car is a 2005 diesel if that helps??

 

yep im not familiar enough with the jag setup, you'll need a level sensor at each front corner for it to be this at fault, if you have 2 on the front then if one sensor has moved,dislodged,bent or damaged it will tilt the car, (it thinks it is level) either try to move the sensor gently back or a recalibration may be required. if you only have one sensor on the front then I would be looking for suspension arms damage/bent , lets hope its the sensor!!

regards

Andy

 

Thank you Andy you have been u huge help thank you.

 

there is a level sensor at each front lower control arm to body to determine the vehicle's height.
yours may have gotten dislodged or other wise damaged.

 

Yes and No; Yes if the problem is the Compressor and No if the Shocks are at fault.

Jaguar did away with the R/front Sensor in Dec 2003. Vehicles manufactured a few months after Dec 03 may have the sensor but it is not providing input to the module.

 

I have taken the wheel off today and there is no sensors at all. There is not even any sockets to where the sensor would be attached too. I assume this is not normal???

When the impact occured, could this have been riped away completely???

 

I doubt it has anything to do with your level sensor or its setting. That is all on the opposite side to that which was damaged. My money would be on something as well as the rim has been seriously damaged. I would be running the car into an alignment shop to have the set up measured and whatever has been bent and is causing your present problem, replaced/reset or fixed.

I do all my own work on my cars but there are times when I would need help doing therepair. This would be such a time.

 

I agree if no sensor is supposed to be there, get it checked out, an impact which wrecked the wheel could have bent something in there,

regards

Andy

 

Andy,
I just read this on the VW/Audi forum from a guy using your repair kit.

"... It was quite easy to do with the compressor in place, a little fiddly and proper lighting is recommended!!! the positive thing is that the whole operation took about 30min, most of the time went in trying to remove the cover(had to saw through one of the fixing points- badly rusted nuts). Did not have to remove any pipes or connectors, just took the Cylinder/top down and to the side and pulled the piston out as far as it came. switched the piston ring and put everything back together.
WORKS A TREAT!!!!!! fast, silent and best of all, all the levels are reached and maintained.!!!!

Fantastic!!!
Sakke"

I plan to use your repair kit this weekend. My rear-end is practically sitting on the frame and it rides like the bed of a tow truck. I'll report my results.

What do you think of repairing the compressor without removing it from the car?
Any unforeseen issues?
If I thought it possible I might give it a go.

 

Hi Tom, i dont think it would be easy on the jag due to access, Sakke managed to change his in 5 mins but it is on an audi allroad, the comressor hangs under the car and had good access and easy to change the ring, it may be possible on the jag but tackle the job expecting to remove the compressor as you may be disapointed if you think it is just a 5 min job, i thinkthere are a few parts to remove just to get to the compressor, wheel, wheel liner,...

best regards

Andy

 

I rebuilt my suspension air compressor a couple of Sundays ago with the kit from BagpipeAndy.

It is a fairly straightforward procedure:

• Disconnect battery
• Place the car on jack-stands
• Removed the left front wheel
• Unscrew the front of the plastic inner wheel well cover
-- Tie it to the side with some mechanics wire or twine
• Unscrew the entire bumper cover, leaving the splash shield attached (saves some time)
• Slide the bumper cover forward (with some initial force) just enough to get access (8-10”)
-- Rest it on a milk crate
• Unbolt the horns and ties those out of the way as well

• Now you have unobstructed access to the air suspension compressor
-- Take a picture of the whole mess because it looks frightening to the uninitiated

• Before unbolting the unit:
-- Remove all electrical connections you can
-- Remove the rubber air intake hose from the white filter at the front
-- See kit instructions for pictures & more
• Unbolt the 3 nuts holding the unit in place
-- Take care to keep track of all the springs, spacers & bushings
-- It’s a little heavy, in an “on your back under a car” sort of way

Follow Rebuild Instructions in kit.
Note: Spray head bolt thread ends with Liquid Wrench (I broke one: nightmare!)
• Reverse procedure above
• Drive slowly around the block a few times
-- It may take a while because the unit automatically turns on and off to keep itself cool

===========================================
A few tips while you have the car on jacks and the bumper cover off:
• Clean the mating surfaces where the bumper slides onto the car for smoother installation
• Consider replacing any/all light bulbs! (See light replacement thread)
• Clean all 3 grounds (earth points) at the front (cause of many gremlins)
-- I had 1 brake right off with alight tap of the wrench
-- The other two seemed fine, but I found light corrosion under both
• If the engine splash shield is missing screws, and sagging in front
-- Get a set of license plate screws ($1.00)
-- Push the square plastic “nuts” into the square frame holes to anchor new screws
-- It may be the same for other splash shield anchor points

=============================================

I hope others do not run into the 3 problems I had with this repair;
1. I could not see how corrosion had cemented the threads and I sheared off a head bolt. I had to drill it out! That took forever….
2. My compressor has only 1 rubber seal, not 2 (2004MY built in late 2003)
-- I had to stretch out the new seal and fit it to an awkward shape: it works fine
3. After I finally had everything back together and replaced the blown fuse, I got a rumbling noise, like driving on highway rumble strips. The same noise I heard just before my suspension began to fail. It turns out that the electric motor it the fail point. So in the end I’ll have to replace the entire unit ($400).

I know the unit still works because I hear it rumbling regularly, but it blows 40A fuses. Fortunately I stumbled across a 30A circuit breaker. So if the circuit breaker “breaks”, it resets itself within 40 seconds. The lower amperage should also afford a better protection against incurring other electrical issues due to the failing compressor motor.

The worst part? I still get Air Suspension Fault as the compressor overworks, blows the breaker, and overworks again. That can only mean a leak somewhere. And since my original issue was with the rear sagging I’m sure I need a rear air suspension assembly. But which side? More diagnostics to come. It’s drivable so I’m just hopping it can all last until Spring. If Spring would ever come. The wind chill was below 0 degrees F this week!

Thanks for all the assistance.
Directly and indirectly via all the threads I have read over the years.

 

Please see below a link to the file "BagPipingAndy - An introduction" as now hosted by our Mediafire account.

The pdf offers an intro to Andy, his background and the compressor repair kit he has developed and sold successfully for issues on various suspension setups, various car / models.

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?nfa9qy5ob3fm9g3

We will be offering some ofthese kits as prizes in the very near future, with the kind assistance of Andy.

Just a heads up for you guys at the moment

 

its the same and proboblly the issue too.

 

To curie,

Why would you replace a 40A fuse with a 30A breaker if it is blowing the 40 A? Also, the problem is not the piston seal if it is blowing fuses. It can mean much more than a leak. My guess would be the motor itself. It is probably not getting up to speed. Could have bad bearings causing excessive current draw. Probably has brushes and those could be shot. Sounds like you need a new compressor-the whole enchilada.

 

Andy is a young, handsome dude. I had imagined an old fart like me.

 

Yeah, I mentioned those things I'm my long post.
And the breaker is a stop-gap so the car is drivable until I can complete the proper repairs.
(Replacing the entire compressor unit and at least one rear shock.)

 

Actually, it would not cost THOUSANDS of dollars to produce this, about 50.00 bucks to get ponoko to 3D print you one to make a mold from

for that matter, with the advent of super cheap high quality 3D printers, that can print from things like PTFE plastic, you could produce these things for a few bucks each lol.

As for the guy that suggested shimming, just thought id let you know, I rebuilt mine about 5 months ago, just wrapped 2 layers of duck tape around the groove that the piston ring sits in, snapped it back on, work like a charm, not 1 problem since lol.

Also, it is 100% possible to replace/repair the piston ring, with the compressor in place on the car, it took me less that 15 min, start to finish, just removed the protective cover, the 2 bolts are sitting right there, just allen wrench them out, the whole top comes down in one piece, a small plastic breather tube for the piston hold the top and bottom together, just grab the piston, pull it down, wrap your choice of thin, fix all shop material, replace ring, replace head, replace bolts, done.

My all road was drivable again, start to finish, 25 min, at most lol, fixed it on my lunch break, still made it to lunch and back without being late lol.

 

Welcome to the forum Kalboon, don't forget to post an intro in the new members section.

Have you tried changing a Jag compressor on your lunchbreak?

 

Lol, nope haven't done that lol, but I have always wanted a jag!

Props. To Audi for making the thing so in believably easy to
Access lol, it's seriously right there, a really skinny guy might
Be able to change it with no jack lol.