Can't speak for this car but on the STR the intercooler heats cold air but cools boosted air. Runs well below 200F but also well above cold outside air temps. It's in effect a nearly separate coolant circuit.

 

The Minnesota service rep said that it only happens when it is really, really cold. The way I understood his explanation, it was because the air temp is so cold coming into the s/c, it was frosting on the rotors.

Anyway, I decided to remove the intake snout and allow the air to be sucked in from behind the radiator (see photos). The temps aren't supposed to get in the single digits any time soon, so hopefully I won't have to deal with this for awhile.

 

I'm not sure frost would form on a spinning rotor...but where ever it is forming in the intake your new "mod" should help. Be sure to update us if the temps turn cold again!

 

I can't imagine it either. If it froze before any work was done by the S/C- all cars would have frosted intakes.

 

well then, what is happening?
I only posted my thread to the TDI's having issues with the freezing intercoolers because it is a somewhat similar issue; like the fords.
Similar things do happen.

IT just seems to have to be the 'just right' atmospheric conditions or we would probably be seeing it all the time.

 

If you have read all these pages...then you probably see that we really don't know what is actually happening. I think we can credibly say that it only occurs in single digit temperatures when the car is driven and then parked in the severe cold for several hours.

The current "best" (and highly debatable) theory is that condensation is forming water or frost within the intake tract...although we don't know exactly where. At some time after shutdown the condensation (or melted frost) drains into the cylinders with open valves...usually towards the rear cylinders.

 

I've followed this thread, but not really read each post of the back and forth, as having an XJ8, not something I will encounter

I agree it's still an unknown John; I was just trying to point out what reads like some people are still skeptical that it is happening at all, and that similar issues do happen with other makes.

 

The intake air goes through the throttle body and into the supercharger where it is compressed and then goes through the intercoolers and into the cylinders. These intercoolers have a radiator in them that is part of the cooling system and operates at about the same temp although there is an additional radiator and pump for this system to keep the temps under control. When it is 5 deg outside, the intercoolers are heating the incoming charge, not cooling it as they are still at about 195 deg f. It is possible that if the enigne is running hard at high rpm, the compressed intake charge may be hotter than the intercooler, in which case, it would be cooled in the intercooler. When the heated charge cools and contracts in the intake, it will release moisture and this may be part of the problem. But, leaky intercoolers have been known to occur, and this will dump coolant right into the intakes, so get them checked.

 

I thought the intercooler used a separate section of radiator, and was only joined at the header tank. A separate electric water pump circulates the coolant, since it is not part of the engine coolant flow.

 

Is there an end of the story, please ?

 

There probably wont be an end to this story until after the next cold season. We are all watching with bated breath....

 

Yep, so far the "end" is that the weather warmed up and the car drives beautifully...at least until the next abnormally cold winter!?!

 

Apologize for overlooking the recent 6 pages ...

 

Not sure there will be an end to the story as I will be putting the XJR up for sale before the temperatures drops. I need a vehicle that will get me where I need to be and unfortunately this one isn't it. I was about 200 miles away from home, stopped at a gas station, when I heard a "fftht" sound from the left front corner, and saw my front end start to sink. D@#!, another blown air spring. Fortunately the air compressor was strong enough for me to make it home before the "vehicle too low" message appeared.

I really love almost everything about this car - the performance, ride, looks, etc., but with only 3 Jag dealers in the State, and the closest one being over an hour from my home, no knowledgeable indie shop that I could find, and the length of time it takes for me to get parts, I'm going to move on to another manufacturer.

 

Sorry to hear about more bad luck QuikCat.

It seems that Jaguar forgot about testing the car in Norway. (usual car pre sale testing ground)

 

I'm half tempted to buy this car to do the testing that Jaguar may have overlooked.

SWMBO would kill me though.

 

Air suspension just NBG in cold climates.

 

Just saw this now and thought I'd give my experience as we are heading into winter again. I would be the one with the STR mentioned with the frozen starter. Happened to the wife after a massive snow storm. They had cleared out our parking lot but left a nice big wall of snow behind all the cars. Needless to say, backing out she packed the undertray with snow, drove to work, melted it, it sat and froze = starter no work! (I know unrelated to this) However, as someone who lives in the great white north (not uncommon to see sub -40 temps here for long periods of time) and drives a SC jag, here is what I have experienced over years of driving this beast all year long.

The car is always parked outside in all types of weather. Not uncommon to have to brush off a good 10in of snow or have to scrape off a coating of ice from freezing rain. Also, its never left to idle after a drive, you get home, park, car off. I have NEVER had the car not start (ignoring the frozen starter issue). It doesn't like the cold sometimes but even outside for days at -40, actually not plugged in once, turn the key and off we go. Now, after reading this thread, based on the theories put forth here, either I am the luckiest person in the world to not have had this happen (conditions this car is in is ideal for this to occur) or maybe something else is going on. Also, I have had my aux coolant pump fail, in winter, as well as the intercooler pump and still, no issues (other than the MIL for a failed IC pump). Also, I know Minnesota does get pretty cold, even can be as cold as here, but our dealer here in Winnipeg never seems to have these issues with the SC jags (I know, very small sample size). I have even washed the car on those days that no human should be out in and never had any ice issues in the engine.
I am not an engineer by any means and never liked physics (Microbiologist actually), but based on my experience, it sounds like something is broken or not working right to cause these issues (maybe I'm completely wrong though, it has been known to happen).

All this being said, I came across this thread because I'm looking to buy a 08 XJ Super V8 and started reading up on them. Now, when I do get my hands on it, likely before this winter, maybe the water getting in will be an issue, but considering the car I'm looking at is at the local dealer, with a good number of miles on it (145Km), I doubt it will be an issue as it has lived its life in the Great White North as served its pervious owner without issue through several winters already. At the very least there will be someone here that can provide first hand experience about both the STR and Super V8 in a climate where neither man nor beast was meant to live in!

 

Just seeing this thread for the first time myself, very interesting read. Halfway through my thought was "why not cover the radiator?" then saw this was discussed as well.

Been a very long time, but anyone remember back in the day car owners would cover the radiator with cardboard to try and get extra heat in the car (40s, 50s cars). My thought would also be that this would keep the engine bay warmer (not the engine coolant). In cold weather, most cars do not even use the radiator, as the heater core can provide all the cooling necessary for the engine. In single-digit temps, I imagine it may not even reach full operating temp with the heater core struggling to keep the interior warm. Blocking 75% or 90% of the rad might be just what it needs. Though I agree, keep a watch on the ECT with a scan tool or similar to ensure you're not overheating on the highway (doubtful that would happen in 5F temps).

 

we still do it with diesels VW sells a cover made for the TDI, typically in Canada.