Okay,

1: Only one code p0121
2: faulted while slowing to a stop, or when pressing the gas while continuing to accelerate from a rolling stop.
3: Battery did not fix it, seemed to improve it but no fix.
4: As of now, you mentioned compatibility, perhaps my rewiring improved that.

Just curious, and not contesting your post, but are you insinuating that my possible fix is impossible?

I'm open to all suggestions due to I'm always willing to try another approach if my solution does not work.

 

Just read the p0121 link, what I just read, to me, seems to justify my repair. You tell me.

 

I provided this information not to criticize what you did I did it to show the reason for the repair and posting the codes help with the proper dialog related to the problem. If it works for you it is fine with me just remember that the issue is compatibility between the two conductive materials. Did you solve that issue?

 

I really think I did. If so, the jag owners buying new throttle bodies would actually be wasting money.

Also, I noticed the link you provided looked to be for x308's, if so, is this why they recalled the TB, and if it is, they must have found the issue to be a safety hazard. Why will they not recall the same issue on x350's is beyond me. I understand that there is a TSB, and i've seen safety complaints on a DOT website, but TSB's do not fix the problem at all since they are technician aids.

Any thought?

 

Here is the new wiring. (attached photos)

Tell me what ya'll think.

There is one thing I know I need to do. I need to make something to protect the connection at the throttle body, where the green and black connectors are, to protect against moisture and corrosion.

Besides that one last mod, that is my custom harness/wiring.

As you can see, I cut the old wires off where the Throttle body wires meet at the large conduit at the engine wiring harness.

I used 9" of silver wire. Its just copper wire plated in silver.

That wire has Teflon insulation, figuring it will protect my wiring from all the heat.

The female pins I used are gold plated. k-s 5 16-14 gauge female connector.

I soldered the wires to the connectors, NOT CRIMPED (Important)

The heat shrink is generic.

Then, I soldered the wires to the wiring harness, each wire soldered side by side, NO SPLICING OR BUTT CONNECTOR.

Using butt connectors, splicing, and crimping all adds resistance. I engineered these wires, researching and using the best materials, to ensure the least bit of resistance, and best connectivity.

 

wiring and text look good to me

 

Thank ya

 

Understand that condensation is an issue and positive connection is critical. Think about the cannon plugs used on aircraft they are sealed with an “O” ring, fitted tightly and locked into place with safety wire. You may have solved your problem for now but if it comes back you know where to look.

 

I hear ya. On the corrosion thing, being that those connectors are exposed,
they are gold plated. They will resist some corrosion for a little while. I am probably going to use a series of shrink wrap, build the layers up, making a rubber gasket.
Then, I will probably use a larger piece of wrap and shrink it around the connector on the TB itself. This will work, it will just make it difficult to remove and re-connect the wires if need-be.

 

That sounds good. As a side note see if you can track down a power company employee and see if he has a short roll of Scotch 130C tape that is used on underground cable that he can give to you. That tape once it is stretched a little it will bond each layer to itself resulting in a water proof connection/area. Cover it with a little electrical tape and you are good to go.

 

Funny you mention that tape. We have a ton of it at my shop. I am a ATC Radar technician. We use it to weatherproof waveguides and any other outdoor connectors. "Green line vulcanizing tape" is what we call it. That is a superb idea.

 

When I was in the field repairing cable it was nothing to use a full case and a half of that tape on one cable splice. Give it a try and do not forget to seal between the two wires.

 

yeah, three nights ago, I was at work til 4am, weatherproofing an antenna. I used 9 rolls, 5 rolls of 2" electrical tape a two cans of a UV protect black goop (we call it monkey snot)

 

If that monkey snot comes in a can I think I know what it is. We used it when working emergency cable splicing at night to start a fire to keep the tape pliable and keep us warm in the winter. It never made it to the cable or tape…….

 

lol. Innovation.

 

Today is day 3, post wiring repair.

Me and the Jag went for a ride today. All was well.

Very responsive.

Running great.

I was filling a little shimmy in idle from the engine. Maybe related to the fact that I accidentally ripped of the resonator on my intake hose and sealed the hole for it. So, the airflow through the intake is uninterrupted. I will fix the resonator when time permits.

Just reporting that the Ole Jag is doing fine after her operation.

Also, its weird here in south carolina today. Its pretty nippy and raining. Low 60's, It was in the 90's yesterday.

 

good fix sherlock! What's next...I'd hate for you to become lax and unchallenged.

 

I have found a supply of 198500-3300 Denso TPS if anyones interested

 

Are those the correct sensors for this generation of xj's? and, how much?

 

The battery is there to start the car and provide temporary power in the event of alternator failure. Unless the battery is internally shorted and drawing massive amounts of power, it is transparent when the engine is running. Bad batteries reveal themselves when they are unable to start the car. An eight year old battery is living on borrowed time. The main enemies of batteries are heat and cold.