Hello Everyone. I noticed a leak around the oil pan during the last oil change so today I decided to change out the oil pan gasket. Not a hard job, BUT I blame myself for being CHEAP and using a cheap Harbor Freight torque wrench and not realize I was apply too much torque. I snapped one oil pan bolt in the block.

I"M SO SO UPSET WITH MYSELF and DEPRESSED.

Can someone please punch me in the stomach for being so stupid!

 

For me it was valve cover gaskets on the Land Rover LR3 that love to snap with the smallest of pressure. I don't think it will be too hard to back it out depending on where on the pan it is and how much might be sticking out. The oil pan is refreshingly easy to access on the X350 V8s. Some questions:
1. is there any bolt protruding? If so, then clamp some vice grips on the stub and back it out counterclockwise.
2. if there is no bolt protruding, you have some options. You could put a dab of epoxy on the broken loose end and hold it in place (with a jack or similar) until it cures and try backing it out once the epoxy sets. Use very little epoxy, you just want to bind the broken bolt together, and not bind either part to the threads or bolt hole itself.
3. if you can reach it with a thin steel probe, you could try hammering it out counter-clockwise.
4. drill out a small hole in the broken bolt and use a screw extractor
5. drill out the entire bolt (really painful as this always takes forever) and rethread the hole.

Good luck with it! Best case scenario, the bolt hole was dirty / filled with some oil and you hydrolocked it causing the bolt to sheer but the resulting stub isn't actually held in with any force. You might want to blast all the bolt holes clean by the way.
- scooter

 

Thanks so much Scooter! My brother and I also have an LR3. We picked it up this past summer and love it. Boy they do have a lot of modules that like to fail, but it's a great SUV. Good luck with yours!

I'm facing Option #2. No bolt protruding.
Very interesting, I've never tried the epoxy method. Have you tried this and have had success? Thanks for sharing all the options. I've always tried #4 and #5 (I hate #5) but the screw extractor tip has snapped on me a few times.

The threads were clean, I was just a dumba$$ and kept tightening and tightening. I hope these oil pan bolts don't bottom out into the block and the bolt is just hanging out in the block without any force. Like to mentioned. Fingers crossed.

You can still punch me in the stomach.

 

sorry to hear this, but i can relate....two years ago i was also using a cheap torque wrench while doing a valve cover gasket on our Audi A8. I snapped one of the two bolts in the center of the cover. I left it as is....the cover leaks some, but not worth the effort of redoing.

Good luck on the pan. I had an issue finding the correct gasket for our XJR. I tried two part#s and used some gasket maker with the rubber gaskets. So far so good.

 

It always hurts when I cause the issue and it's not the car's fault. I'm hoping the oil pan still doesn't leak, but I doubt it won't. Still going to extract anyway.

I used the MAHLE OS32287 oil pan gasket and it fit perfectly. Something to consider if you decide to do the job again one day.

 

Before you drill it, how far away from the surface of the hole is it broken? Could you get a small probe or nail in on one side and try to see if you could hammer it to spin counter clockwise?

Re: the LR3, the trucks are a blast (why have a unibody chassis or a frame when you can have both and approach 3 tons of car?) but everything takes 2x as long as other cars... Want to change your oil? Sure, it's a DIY job. Step 1... remove the 40 pound armor plate underneath! The one big no-no is don't replace the gas tank shield by yourself... not only is it a shield it also holds up the LR3's gas tank! Best tool I have had on the LR3 is the GAP IID tool, it's expensive at $500 but it lets you talk to all the modules.

 

Hi Scooter.. The broken piece is just below the surface, so I'll try the small probe method this weekend and see if it can spin clockwise. I'll be doing backflips if it does. Thank You again

The LR3 is HEAVY and gets the horrible gas mileage 12-14.mpg, but feels like a tank(looks great!) and enjoy the fact that its the same engine (4.4 vs 4.2) that's in the XJ8! I almost bought the GAP IID, but went ahead and (did I say I was cheap) bought the Autel Maxi. It's been great because I can use on any of my cars. I've changed the TPMS Module, TPMS sensors, Parking Module, multiple Parking assist sensors, electric clutch, alternator, and now the remote box doesn't work(maybe antenna is bad). The big girl keeps you busy. I let me brother use the LR3, I like the XJ8 much better.

 

Most pan bolts protrude thru the flange of the transmission and can be felt if you run your fingers along the top of that flange.

Thats why soaking them in some penetrating oil to get stuck ones out is so easy.

See if you can feel this one on top of the flange. If you can you have another easier option to get it out.

 

Things called "Easyouts" were once on sale that had a very course opposite-way tapered thread on them. First you drilled a suitable hole, then with a tap-wrench inserted the Easyout into the hole and turned anticlockwise, and hopefully the Easy out threads locked onto the sides of your drilled hole and allowed the broken stub to be removed.
I see they are still on sale, but the name is changed !!
https://www.screwfix.com/p/bolt-extr...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

OMG! Jack you may of made my day, if the oil pan bolt protrudes out of the transmission flange. I could soak and use a pair of pliers to loosen it up.

Thanks Frasier. I've been already research what are the best bolt extractors, I'll check out the Easyouts.

 

If you broke it tightening it, it should come back out pretty easily.

 

leave it alone it will not leak, ask me how i know. there is always just one bolt that just keeps spinning and you need to know when to stop.


now watch this video

https://youtu.be/DC2Lo4sqoDI

 

Most of the time i only use a torque wrench on motor work.
There is a general feel for many things after a while.
Lot of smaller torques on motorcycles you best pay attention to.
You know how tight just feels right.
Holding the small ratchet this way on smaller bolts.

 

Thanks everyone for all the advice, knowledge and support. Very much appreciated. I watched the video and I'm going to pick up a beam type or better type of torque wrench. I also like doing it by feel with a smaller 1/4 ratchet.

 

Update: 3 days later and no leaks from the oil pan! I'm still going to remove the snapped bolt, but now going to wait until the next oil change.

I like Good News

 

that is good news, but if there are no leaks at next oil change, why take a chance. Leave it and monitor occasionally. You may remove the pan to find out you cannot get the bolt removed...then what? Leave as is....my vote.

 

You are right!, though I tend to be destructive with my hands sometimes and can't leave good enough alone. My **** thinking doesn't like leaving things bad in the car, but lets see how I feel next oil change. thx

 

Often times drilling with a left hand bit will back the broken bolt right out if not too tight. make sure its centered..

 

If you can feel the bolt from above the flange you should be able to take it out without removing the pan.

Then simply put a new one back in place....to the correct torque spec.

 

Easy out is a misnomer, they should be called a last resort. Harbor Freight has a set of left handed drill bits that sometimes work wonders.