I have a 2005 Jaguar Vanden Plas with a parasitic draw. I want to install a kill switch to the car because I don't have the money to have a bunch of mechanics tearing apart my dashboard to find the source of the issue. I can't install it in the trunk because the battery is in the trunk and the trunk is powered. So, I need to install it on either the fuse box or under the rear bumper. I want to know which would be easier to do and I wanted to know how I should do it.

 

Have you considered fact that it is a normal operating procedure for car periodically power up certain systems to check their status? I do not mean this is the source of your power loss, your car may have a parasitic current on top of the fact that air suspension system is monitored even when owner is deep asleep in a bed.
You may have a bigger annoying issue if you turn power completely off when you leave it:Parasitic current is not something new, some people are just not patient enough or knowledgeable enough around electricity. You need to find a meticulous SPECIALIST. It is a tedious slow job.

 

The car is drawing 800 Milliamps. I don't consider that normal.

 

I have the same car ,but no problem with it, Problem is with 03 Range Rover, dead every two days. Exhausted all my abilities to find the fault, it has many.. Used an equiptment type power switch.in the negative battery cable. Hardest part is finding a .place to put it. I guess under the bumper would be the only place on your car. Just don't be like me and forget to shut it off.

 

I agree that 800 mA are not normal if they are drawn continously, but, as Big Kodhka said, the car periodically wakes up some of the control units, and then of course it draws more current than in the sleeping mode.

Also, when did you measure the current? To have reliable measurements, you have to lock the car with the boot open and wait for a minimum of 30-40 minuteds for the car to go "to sleep". Only then you will be able to se how much current the car is using in sleep mode.

In case the car really draws too much current in sleep mode, you can try removing fuses one by one and see whether there is a change in the current drawn. That way, you can at least narrow the fault down.

BTW, you can install the kill switch in the boot, as you can also open it mechanically with the key. The lock is next to the license plate lights, so not immediately visible.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

+1 What Thomas said!
Kill switch will not fix the problem, just mask it.

 

Hey Noble,
Frustrating problem, I know. My old M3 tends to run the battery down as well. Problem is that these Jags don't like to have the battery connected and disconnected repeatedly (it resets various control modules. etc). You may want to consider using a trickle charger with a quick connect harness permanently attached to the battery. Works well for me....

 

Whatever you're measuring that draw with, leave it connected as you pull fuses one at a time. When the draw stops, you've found the circuit. An assistant to watch the meter would save quite a bit of walking between the meter and the fuse boxes! And don't leave fuses pulled, replace them and move on to the next one.

 

If you're determined to track it down:

- Do the courtesy light circuits last, as they will reset with fuse pull and monkey up your subsequent tests (ask me how I know this)
- Be super suspect of any aftermarket stuff (eg alarms, radios, cig lighter and USB thingies)
- If 800 ma draw persists, disconnect alternator...may be back-leaking diode

Remember that these cars go through various waiting periods before settling down. Plus the air suspension does an All Well with each watch change. You almost need a recording ammeter, which I believe you can approximate under detail-level live data recording, with Jag OBD diagnostic software. Also, make sure your battery maintains 12.6 VDC or better after being disconnected from car for a few days. Go out and look at your car in the dark of the night. Bad rear chassis module may leave a taillight on. Glovebox light may be stuck on (my issue); underhood light, lic plate lights, etc.

Hope this helps....

 

So the car does have the mechanical lock but the previous owner destroyed it and it is unusable now. It's just an empty hole. I also didn't measure the amperage. The repair shop measured the Amperage. I don't know how they measured the Amperage but they wanted $1972 to find the source of the drain so I decided to just fix it myself.

 

The Battery is currently disconnected

 

Where do I buy a Trickle Charger and how do I install it?

 

Hey Noble,
Just get a decent little trickle charger and follow directions; it may take 5 minutes to install:

(eg, 2A Noco charger; about $30...)

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/search...ger&referer=v2
it is straight forward and self-explanatory; however if you need help how to install it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...arger&ie=UTF-8

 

And if you go with a trickle charger, which may be sold as a battery maintainer, take it with if you travel.

 

If the parasitic draw is isolated in one of the circuits, this tool is invaluable: https://www.harborfreight.com/30-amp...ool-70079.html
I own one (actually 3) and swear by it.

It makes it easy to isolate a parasitic circuit. I would, however, start by simply disconnecting the alternator to make sure you do not have a leak caused by a bad diode bridge

 

Wau!
Beats a living poop out of messing up with connecting multimeter!
THANKS FOR THE TIP!