I'll be taking it back in a few week when I have time and check the AC.

By the way, anyone know what this is?

XJ205-01 - Driveshaft Vibration/Drone Noise - Revised WDS Balancing Procedure

 

See attached.

 

JAHummer, I think we should pick a date, you in Cincinnati and me in Columbus, drive to Indi and have xjrguy figure out what is up. Afterwards a few adult beverages and some fine food.

I'm always up for a road trip.

 

Here's the US version for what it's worth. The method described requires Jaguar's WDS or IDS and some high priced special tools.

Cheers,

 

Thanks a bunch for posting. Any chance this might be it? Or would it always vibrate?

 

I'm going to say no in this case, because this procedure addresses a vibration or drone noise noticeable at road speed, generally 45-55 MPH, and sometimes as high as 70-72 MPH. As I recall, you have noticed something abnormal sitting still, as well as when moving.

Cheers,

 

It is not the driveshaft. I don't see how you balance one on the car effectively.

If that car was mine, I would put a new AC compressor on it. If that didn't fix it I would park it in the ghetto with the keys in it.

 

Irrelevant then, no doubt. Thanks anyhow!

 

No doubt it is getting frustrating. As mentioned before, I am taking the car to a local Jag tech to see what he thinks about the compressor.

 

If it only happens when you turn the compressor on, then it's probably the bearings in the pulley. They're likely going out. The engine will bog down and struggle for a moment as it tries to get the pulley to begin turning at speed, because the bearings are cracked/flat/shattered. Those bad bearings are creating the grinding noise you're hearing.

This is mostly a guess, but a guess born of experience. Father-in-law's Ford had the exact same symptoms and issues and ultimately, the solution presented above.

 

If it looks like a Duck, walks like a Duck, quacks like a Duck..........

 

Well, at least for today, some things have changed.

The noise I have been hearing is kind of like a chugging/hammering, loud enough to be heard clearly but not what I would consider to be a loud noise.

Today I noted the noise now persists whether the AC is on or off, but again only when stopped in drive. And to top it off the vibration increases when turning the steering wheel in either direction along with a creaking noise.

Again none of this happens when in neutral.

The vibration is strong enough to be felt in the wheel, seat, mirrors and rattle keys in the door, FWIW.

 

When you turn the steering wheel at a standstill, it loads up the power steering pump, because it now has to generate quite a lot of pressure to turn the wheels, far more than assisting the driver on the move. This then puts a load on the engine, and the ECU will detect loss of revs and compensate to return revs to normal tickover. The creaking noise could be the serpentine belt at the pump drive pulley, or crank pulley.

 

But the vibration goes away in neutral. It didn't do this with the steering before and it still does it even if I am not turning the wheel in drive if the AC is on. Again this is all a recent development. Never had the vibration before, other XJ at dealer had no vibration.

Anyhow the point of my last post was this:

Noise is present even with AC off so perhaps AC is not the issue
Steering is now making creaking noises and contributing to the vibration
Better description of noise and vibration

I understand about the load but RPMs do not increase and if I press the gas pedal, nothing changes.

Hope my updates help with additional suggestions.

 

Still seems as though the COMMON THREAD here is the load applied to the engine, whether it be the compressor, the steering or the load of being in gear. I'm guessing a heavy alternator load would cause something, too. In my mind, that leaves us back at the flexplate or a ground-out somewhere. A ground-out is a physical contact between the engine, or something on the engine, and the body of the car when a load is applied. Sometimes a ground-out can be very elusive, because it can be completely out of the line of sight. That can mean it has to be traced by feel, microphone or some other method.

Good luck!

 

Steve,

I wasn't sure JAH and I had the same problem until his symptoms changed and now match mine.

What are the procedures to repair/replace the flex plate? Can you give an estimate of costs associated with the job?

Dave

 

You have to pull the tranny then unbolt & R&R the flexplate. It is like a flywheel on a manual trans. Also carries the ring gear for the starter.

 

Did duff engine mounts get mentioned anywhere on this long thread ?

 

Brutal,

And I thought I was a cynic! You & SuperTrav I can learn from! I won’t even comment about the myriad of codes except to say to the issuer “and your point is”? See, I can be gentle on dealers.

My first reaction was the compressor, either about to **** itself internally, or the magnetic clutch bearing is ‘kaput’. But jahummer’s observation about vibration coming from the rear of the engine is a bit of a curved ball.

I have a ‘mechanics’ stethoscope that I have had for years (it has a long aluminium rod attached to the diaphragm) which is very good for tracking down the source of a noise. I don’t know if you can still buy them, but maybe you could ‘scrounge’ an old one from someone in your family, and modify it. An alternative, jahummer, is to use a long handled screwdriver with the handle against your ear, and see if you can locate the source of the noise that way. You just put the blade on the component area you are checking, and it will transfer to sound to your ear. Just be careful around moving parts, or the screwdriver may end up sticking through your upholstery!

Cheers,

Languid

 

Learning a lot catching up on this thread however, not sure exactly what but I'm still reading.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/i...n_clapclap.gif