Note; I have never posted with a picture -so I hope this works as the picture is key to this post..


I learned the hard way --- and in the spirit of giving back to the forum I'd like to share some tips that worked for me. First tho, a mandatory disclaimer: These tips worked for me but they may not work for you. Your life is dependant on good brakes so read your own risk.

So if you are considering takling replacing the rear 2004+ XJ8 pads, here is some - obvious to me NOW, not obvious in the moment -- tips.

1. It is an easy job to do and handbrake complicates a little, but not much.
2. I released the handbrake by starting the car – put it in neutral, released the handbrake and then switched off the ignition. Key still in the ignition. Installed my wheel stops.
3. I bet there is another more conventional way but there you go – that is how I got the job done… .
4. The hand brake cable, spring etc… is a distraction. By that I mean there is no need to disconnect any of it. Just remove the caliper block assy as normal. I spent some time making the job more complicated in my mind as I wondered whether there was something special I needed to do.
5. The piston rotates clockwise and inwards. May be obvious but I know I spent 15 minutes wondering.
6. As mentioned – you need to press on the piston while rotating clockwise. It rotates but it will not move inwards without some pressure. More later…
7. I did not have the compression tool mentioned in other posts and to make matters worse I had rotated the piston anti clockwise and it came out a 1/8 inch. So there was no turning back. I would not be able to simply put it back together and order the tool.
8. So as they say “Invention is….”
9. Here is what I came up with as one option…..
10. I created my own tool with a C clamp and a ½ inch socket. As shown in the picture..
11. Now its klutzy I admit but it worked for me. I first “loosened” the piston by rotating it a few times with a thin pipe wrench. . As I mentioned it does not move inwards – but it does rotate.
12. Watch to not damage the rubber seal while rotating'llosening.
13. I put grease or oil on the surface of the piston and also on the head of the C clamp.
14. Assemble as shown. Tighten up
15. Loosen the brake nipple and place a plastic pipe over the nipple to allow the oil to drain into your container.
16. Here is where you use your finesse and nurturing skills to get the job done. As you tighten the clamp the clockwise force & motion will tend to transfer – some not all - to the piston/clamp surface. You will see slight clockwise movement on the piston. It’s not 1 to 1 but it should move. There is a sweet spot that has it rotate and if you are too loose or to tight it will not move. You need to find the sweet spot, which may mean loosening the clamp and tightening again. Took me two minutes and I was on a roll.
17. You will get the hang of it – tighten/loosen the c clamp till the piston is rotated all the way back into the housing.
18. Done
19. The rest has been covered in other posts and is easy so I won’t bore you, sufficed to say at 47K miles my oil was dark on one side and black on the other. So bleed the system

Hope this help those contenplating a rear DIY brake job.

 

Thanks for sharing!

 

I suggest anyone planning this job go to Harbor Freight and get a $39 tool set for disk brakes that has the adaptors for the rear brake piston retraction. This fits inside the caliper and both rotates and presses in on the piston, retracting it in a matter of a minute.
As we know, the right tools make a hard job much easier. Most modern cars need this tool, so it will be money well spent. You should be able to do this job in 30-45 minutes per caliper.

 

The rear caliper retraction tool can used for free. Auto Zone parts stores loan this tool for free with a $60.00 deposit. It works great and the pistons move back easier than using a C-clamp on the front calipers. I however had on rear piston come out of the bore, which must have allowed air to enter the system, before I found the tool. While it went into the bore perfectly using the retraction tool, when I fininshed the job the brakes were spongy indicating that air was in the system. I then bled and refilled the system to finish the job.

 

Hi all,

Quick question - do I have to worry at all about the electronic handbrake shooting off while I'm working on the brakes?

I plan to do this over the week and want to make sure this is a DIY kinda thing.

Thank you!

 

For all you XJR owners with a separate rear park brake caliper the Harbor Feight and Autozone kits don't fit but see this solution which worked like a dream. It's in the Sticky: X350 / X358 'HOW TO' quick links section

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...action-145571/