The valve body repair isn't hard at all as for a splitting it and putting that separator plate in. The main thing is to make sure you have it positioned to where when you take it apart. The springs and the check ***** are on the bottom half. Then you just put little punch marks where the check ***** are and everything is straightforward.

 

Thank you for the vote of confidence Scott haha. I was more concerned about the zip kit installation. Which, if I’m separating the vb I would plan to do. I guess it will all depend on what happens Wednesday. If it’s still wonky I may try to install the parts. Or have a shop do it. I’ll keep yall posted.

 

the zip kit is easiet than it looks. Do one valve at a time and it is easy to follow. Nice diagrams in the sonnax kit. Like i said crucial part of the whole thing is orienting the valve body for splitting so the ***** dont fall out. I think it lays down opposite of how it comes out of the trans body. If you decide to do it google gary ferraro on youtube. He has fantastic videos on zf stuff. Even if you dont do it yourself his vids are very informative. Best of luck

 

The way i look at it, if you bring car to a shop the shop is only good as a tech working on it!
Wrench turning is hobby o mine, I always ask my self a question before starting doing something:Of course there are things I would not touch with a 10 foot poll!

 

Scott, I may tackle it after all. I appreciate your feedback on the zip kit install.

Big Koshka, this is true. I’m an industrial mechanic by trade and wrenching on cars is a hobby of mine also but I was just getting a bit nervous reading other folks reports. If the legacy Jaguar dealer messes it up I would sure hope it would be on them and they would repair whatever the screw up. But then again, who knows lol.

 

Man what a day. If you don’t care to read all about long story short my XJR is still in the shop and I drove a loaner Range Rover the 2+ hours back home.

If you do want to read about my day here goes.

Firstly, I don’t want to speak poorly of the shop as of yet. They were incredibly slow today that is for certain but have been accommodating every other way so take my first rant with a grain of salt.
I made an appointment for 10am last week for me to have The transmission adaptations reset. The young lady is scheduled service with put me on hold to double check this was a service they could do and came back with a yes saying it was an hour long procedure. I arrived with a friend who wanted to tag along at 9:50. The young lady asked if I wanted to do the diagnostic service or just the reset and I asked a few too many questions I suppose as she soon had the head tech there to talk to me. I told him about the single odd shift and he agreed we needed to take a test drive. With me driving we covered one block and he was satisfied there was an issue although he didn’t say what he suspected it was. Which, I was ok with. Liability reasons and all. But after talking with him and he telling me in order to do an actual trans diagnostic test it would need to be a cold start among other things we both agreed while I was there today to do the adaptation reset as that had no stipulations and could be done easily.

I told him I had changed the fluid twice and he was impressed when I explained how and told him the procedure I followed. He congratulated me and said it sounded like I did it perfectly and they would reset the adaptations.

4 hours later I get a text that the tech has my vehicle in the bay. 5 or so hours in I get a video. Have a bad bushing in the front driver control arm, they noticed a new pan so pulled the fill plug to check level in trans and say it’s 3 qts low. Otherwise looks very good.

2 more hours and I get a text saying my car is ready so I make my way to the service desk but the young lady comes up and says, your car is ready but there is an alert on the dash now. I said well, there wasn’t when I brought it in here. To which she asks would I like for them to clear it. I replied yes, but I’d like to know what it is for. So she takes it back to the bay and soon returns to say that after the adaptation reset it drove the same and now it has a p0736 fault and is stuck in one gear and won’t shift.

I expressed my dismay as nicely as possible after being in this place for 7 hours now and told them it made the 2+ hour drive down just fine with the exception of the odd shift at first start and that there were no warning lights on and I would very much like to know how the tech deduced that the trans was 3 qts low as it is impossible to get a measurement from what I can tell. By this time the service manager comes up and we have a convo about what the car has been doing, why I’m here and what has been done. He goes back and investigates but at this point it is past 6 o clock, they are closed and I am a bit irritated.

The tech that said the trans was low did not add any fluid and at this point there is no one there aside from us to get any fluid so has to wait till tomorrow. I asked him what he was using to reset adaptations and he said SDD. I thought my car, being an 04, needs ISS so I tell him this and he said he’s never ever heard of that. He also said that the tech was trying to update the software now. I replied with wasn’t that already done and he said no we only reset the adaptations earlier. I explained to him that resetting the adaptations without first updating the software is like installing a new printer on your computer without the drivers and that the software update should have been first. He went to talk to another worker and then they offered me a loaner to get home as I’m sure they were all ready to go home.

Couple questions,
I replaced the fluid with ravenol 6 fluid that I ordered with the assumption it is compatible with this trans. Was I wrong?
Can performing the adaptation reset before a (surely needed) software update cause this sort of mayhem?
How should I handle this whole situation? I am really at a loss on this whole day. I don’t want to spend thousands of dollars for them to fool around with my car, plus, frankly, I don’t have the money for that.

I am going to call them tomorrow and see what the head tech says as he had left before all this and that’s who the service manager wanted to work on it. Any specific things I need to say or ask?

What a huge debacle. I am worn out. I appreciate you for reading all this if you made it. You are a trooper haha

 

Two things come to mind and I apologize if you'd covered them in your post. I would've not done any trans clears or adaptations until all the work was done on the transmission that you were going to do and I think you did that. From what I have read on the forum, I believe the raven all is a very good replacement for the lifeguard fluid. Being 3 quarts low they say did you do the fluid check yourself follow the explicit instructions and if so, did they know how to do it. It sounds to me somewhat that they have someone not familiar with the Jaguar software that applies to that car. You are kind of in between a rock and a hard place because you are so far from home and having to trust someone that is giving you information that doesn't jive with what you have heard on this forum I think.

 

I agree. Something for sure is not jiving haha.

Ok, that makes me feel better about the ravenol.

I did not recheck the fluid after the change. I did do it by the book. But perhaps it sucked more up while driving after the fluid change and it is indeed low. But as to how low, come on. How are you going to be able to tell.

I did not do any of the work inside the trans yet. I was really hoping all it needed was the adaptations reset after taking it to the local shop. That’s what they seemed to think.

The shop it is currently at is a legacy jaguar dealer and service center. Only one of three on the east coast and by far the closest to me. But I’m with ya. Seems like they aren’t too familiar with the older stuff.

As far as money goes I have my paperwork and it was totaled to zero. Like I don’t owe anything. So I was intrigued but didn’t ask any more questions haha. I don’t mind paying if they are adding fluid or what have ya to get it where it needs to be obviously. I just don’t want to rack up thousands of dollars of repair work. But I also don’t want to mention too much because heck idk, maybe they will cover it. They were pretty apologetic about my being there all day and then not being able to take my car at the end. I guess I’ll try and talk to the head tech tomorrow and get some better answers from him hopefully.

 

Hi ChattownXJR,

What a frustrating situation! Here are a few quick thoughts before I head to bed:

1. P0736 is defined as Reverse Gear Ratio Fault. The published possible causes are ECM Torque Signal Fault or Transmission Mechanical Failure. The torque signal comes from the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAFS) through the ECM, but I would first suspect possibly a problem at the transmission electrical connector. As to mechanical failure, if the technician dropped the fluid pan and valve body, he could have failed to get the park lever returned to its proper position (which is easy to get wrong), this will prevent proper transmission operation.

2. The kinematic viscosity of Ravenol ATF 6 is 24 mm2/sec, which is a little lower than that of ZF Lifeguard 6, which is 26.8 mm2/sec. But that should not cause any serious problems if the base oils and additives are similar to those in LG6. The fluids we have known to be correct in the 6HP26 are Lifeguard 6, Ford Motorcraft Mercon SP, and Shell M1375.4. Mercon SP has been the easiest and most affordable to find in the U.S., but was reportedly out of production for a time when Ford claimed that Mercon LV could be used, only to experience a high percentage of transmission failures.

3. SDD works just fine on a 2004. You do not need the earlier IDS or WDS. And clearing the transmission adaptations does not require a software update to SDD, since this just involves erasing stored data in the Mechatronic/TCM. Updating the Mechatronic firmware is a different (and for your '04 probably desireable if not necessary) function which does require SDD to have the latest files. But since the lastest update for the 6HP26 was issued by Jaguar in mid-2005, any version of SDD your dealer has will probably have the correct file, or should have access via an online connection to Jaguar. According to my records, the last updated firmware file is Z63k5660x350ww.phx

4. If the tech opened the fluid pan drain plug, drained the fluid and measured the volume, it would certainly be at least 3 quarts less than the total transmission capacity, since nearly half the fluid can remain in the torque converter, pump, valve body and other recesses of the transmission.

Hoping for good news tomorrow!

Cheers,

Don

 

Don,
I sure hope the code isn’t pointing to mechanical failure but at this point who knows! I rewatched the video and the technician says that he pulled the drain plug and no fluid came out after noticing a new trans pan. So if that is the case, which, to me it seems like the wrong way to check fluid seeing as to how the fill plug is right there, and no fluid came out then yeah, she is super low. I don’t think they dropped the pan at all at least they didn’t say they did. But I didn’t ask specifically. If it is indeed that low on fluid I don’t know how it drove just fine until after they reset adaptations?

That is good info on the Ravenol. Looks like I should have done a bit more research before ordering it as I would have ended up with one of the other fluids you mentioned m but I don’t think that is the issue at least.

I suppose they were doing the procedure right then. I got my acronyms crossed anyway and was saying ISS so the service manager probably thought I was the crazy one haha. He did say that it takes a while to do its thing with the car but they were communicating just fine. I will ask about the firmware update today. I guess that’s what I was referring to as software update but again, got my terminology mixed up. Which I do all the time.

I just don’t see the tech draining the fluid and then not replacing it and I’m sure they didn’t replace or add (to fill) any fluid because I made a point of that and how if it’s that low it should be corrected not quoted as part of a trans diagnostic that was thousands of dollars.

Which reminds me, they sent me 4 quotes but they disappeared after I declined them and they were a 4 wheel alignment, trans diagnostic, suspension service and front drive service. None of them had a description of what they entailed and they were all, as you can imagine, very pricey easily costing almost double what I paid for the car when combined. I believe the service tech put them in my paperwork but again, no description and the prices weren’t listed there. Just seems crazy to me that if you check the fluid level of anything be it the engine, trans, brakes and it is dangerously low you would add the fluid before taking for a test drive and completing service with the customer.

I will try and call them this morning now that I am a little more relaxed and at home and see what we can figure out.

I really really appreciate you all for your knowledge, insight and willingness to help a fellow Jag owner with all of this!

 

Small update. Called and asked a few questions.

Did they do a firmware update? Not sure have to get back to me.

Which plug was pulled to check fluid level? Same answer.

asked about the breakdown of the recommended trans diagnostic report which is top off fluid (estimate of 3 qts) and test drive. 2 hours labor and 100 dollars a quart after taxes and fees is $1064.00. I told her that seemed astronomical to me.

She said the head tech and service manager are looking at/having a meeting about my car as we spoke so I told her to just call back if and when they figured anything out. She said she could work with me on the pricing a little but seems crazy to me. Then again, I never go to the repair shop let alone the dealer. I don’t mind paying if my car is repaired but if it’s not then that’s a whole different story.

 

Just got a call from the service manager.

they put 1.5 qt of fluid in and it is still low but that’s all they had haha.

But the major update is the file was loaded incorrectly when flashing the tcm and that’s why the trans is not working. They are working on it so will give me an update by the end of day today.

Any pointers I could let them know that you all may have?

Glad I got an update and I’m not totally in the dark now at least.

 

As far as the fluid goes, there's got to be a Ford dealership nearby that has some Mercon SP that is the fluid that is exactly correct for that transmission. I guess you could make the calls yourself to the dealership for the fluid but getting them to put it in might be something different. I guess you could show them the many posts on this forum that shows Mercon SP as an exact replacement for the shell specification. They are probably downloading files from the topix website because they're using the newest version of the SDD software. The last versions of SDD did not have standalone calibration and programming files built into them.

 

Oh I can go ahead and tell you they won’t put that fluid in. At this point I’m just going to let them take as long as they need I suppose.

When they call me back later I will ask about the files and where they are getting them from. I would imagine by this time they have reached out to the other dealers for assistance but who knows.

Will they be able to revert back or reflash this and get it working again do you think?

 

However they go about it the fluid fill is your number one concern to be correct. The trans reflash usually deals with software glitches that were discovered after intial programming at factory. Any valve body issues are of course hard parts to correct failing valves or solenoids. Even leaky end caps can cause issues. I know you do not want to bust their butt so hopefully they have a tech or two very familiar with the 6hp26 and related software. I am sure with the knowledge on this forum it can get sorted if the shop is willing to use it if the issue requires it. Best case is fully topped off with proper fluid the right way. Reflash successful and drive cycle done successfully. Then you can get car home and go from there. These transmissions are pretty robust. The main killer being lack of maintence

 

Scott, thank you for your help buddy. I really appreciate it!
I got a call back and the car is ready to be picked up BUT…

So turns out SDD read my car as a naturally aspirated model and when it programmed the updates I guess that’s where the problem came from.
They then used IDS today and everything worked well. They said the trans is shifting better but not 100% still.
However, while updating the tcm evidently it updated a bunch of other things and the drivers seat module is now kaput and the seat won’t move. Hopefully it’s stuck where I had it because I am going to get the car tomorrow and be done with this conundrum.

All of this is info I got from the service tech tonight when she called me. She said they added 1.5 litres of fluid to the trans and I told her I talked to the service manager around 1 today and he already told me that and they were needing more. She said they found another bottle but that still doesn’t totally add up to me but I’ll get those answers tomorrow when I go down there.

I am relieved they got the trans working. A little annoyed about the seat but maybe I can figure something out with it. Especially with the awesome people on here helping out. You all have been way more knowledgeable than the dealership and I honestly think they found some papers I had in the center console that had step by step how to update the firmware and reset adaptations from this site. I didn’t tell them they were in there but I did have the service manager grab some personal items out of there so maybe he took a look.

I will report back how it goes tomorrow and let you all know how she drives. I can’t thank you all enough for all the help!

 

The door module is probably a glitch in the files or they did not have a battery maintainer hooked up. All programming is crucial to maintain amps and volts. The remote fob operation is coded into the driver door module. Check that they work. Otherwise it may magically cure itself. These cars are notorious for glitches that appear then go away. I would be curious to know what version sdd/ids they are using. It is a common practice to not use sport mode or heavy throttle for about 200 miles after a trans clear and reflash. Even if drive cycle has been done. The clutches need time to adapt in normal mode. Especially the torque converter lockup clutch. Let us know how the drive home goes

 

I will ask about what they used and see what they say.

My wife had a doctors appt this am so we will be heading down shortly to get her.

They did just send me an estimate for the seat module repair haha. 1300 bucks. For a problem they caused. Hopefully it is just a glitch that fixes itself. I know I can access the module with my buddies autel so maybe I’ll give that a go.

I will for sure take it easy with the go pedal for a while. I appreciate the reminder.

I will hopefully post some good news later today.

 

Well, got to the service center around 11 today. Spoke with the service advisor for about 10 seconds before the head tech came up to discuss everything. He apologized for the trouble and explained that the SDD program automatically assumed my car was naturally aspirated and therefore loaded the incorrect files causing all the issues. He said he had to dig out an old computer with IDS dvd 118 on it and reload everything. He said after that all was well. I also had a headlight module fault and he reset that and saw the driver seat fault for 3 potentiometers and when he went to reset it the seat quit working all together. He said the 1.5 litres is all they put in and it is at the correct level. They did not do a drive cycle so I plan to just drive it easy for a tank of fuel. I drove easy on the way home but it was about 95% freeway so not much shifting action.

As for the shifting, if you are at very light, just off idle the shift is great. What I would consider normal acceleration, which is still slow judging by all the cars around me in traffic on any given day, the shift is still pretty bad. I haven’t tried anything more than light throttle as of yet and don’t plan to drive the car until Monday as I plan to take it down a fairly calm 4 lane highway close to the house and do a lot of slow start/stops in hopes to aid in the relearning process.

There is 100% for sure a sizable scuff of red paint and rubber across the driver side to center of my front bumper I didn’t notice until I was an hour away from the service center. But that could have been any number of the 50 people working there moving cars around and they may have just not said anything to anyone. Plus my front bumper has some damage anyway so I didn’t contact them to complain.

I will say that everyone there tried their best to take care of me and it really did show. As aggravating as the whole ordeal was they gave me a pretty sweet loaner vehicle, did the service I asked for specifically, communicated other concerns about my car not even related to why I brought it in and the best part, DIDN’T CHARGE ME A DIME.

The head tech even said if I get a used seat module and bring it down he will set it up with IDS for me free of charge since he messed it up. But he’s an older gentleman so I asked when he’s retiring and he said June 1 this year so I better hurry haha. Although I was pretty frustrated and stressed out about the whole thing and wasted two days I won’t get back I feel thy did everything they could to help me out. And for that I think they deserve 5 stars. My service girl was brand new as well so I think she got some good learning/coaching moments out of this whole ordeal too haha.

I will keep everyone posted on the shifting after I put some miles on her but I am glad she is back home with me. Also, I would rather drive a 135xxx mile x350 over a 2xxx mile 2026 Range Rover any day of the week.

 

Sorry I haven’t given an update. I’ve been pretty busy since getting the car back home. I did drive it Tuesday and did my best to complete the drive cycle but I haven’t a clue as to if I did it because I do t have IDS obviously so just accelerated from a stop through all gears shifting between 12-1800 rpm not in S mode nine times. It shifts pretty much the same. Seems like the first 2-3 shifts from cold are better but then back to how it was for the most part. I also got a suspension fault right before I pulled back in my driveway Tuesday and noticed the car sitting pretty low. It was cold that day. Much colder than it has been in my area. It seems this old air suspension set up doesn’t like it cold anyway it seems so maybe that played a factor. Anyway, once I get back in the swing of working on the Jag I will update more.