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Thomas, thank you again. Received my key fobs last night and programmed them this morning. It took me several tries as I wasn't flashing the lights quickly enough but it works like a charm............Jack.
I replaced the RR tail light this morning, pretty easy job. The damage was there before I bought the car, the back of the light was duct taped together which was a little disappointing to find. The remote fob programming went well following the instructions provided earlier in the thread by Thomas. It took me several tries but the trick is you have to flash the high beams very fast, literally as fast as you can. I used JB plastic weld on the glove box door and used a plastic syringe with an extension tip to apply it (available at any drug store, ask for oral syringe). The JB weld was pretty liquid so easy to apply. Time will tell if it will hold but hot glue is just a waste of time. I'm just going to grit my teeth and drill the front bumper cover, I found a genuine Jag front license plate bracket on eBay so the fit will be okay. Now to find a key shop that can cut the Jag key, peel the cheap tint off the windows and have it tinted properly.
It's always a shame when you find such things have been hidden from you, at least it wasn't anything major. Where did you get the FOBs from? I've seen that many don't include the correct transponders, so that's great that yours did. Have you decided on a brand of tint? That whole industry is so full of smoke and mirrors, it's really frustrating, so I've yet to decide who's to use. Lumar does seem to be quite good, as does Global.
It's always a shame when you find such things have been hidden from you, at least it wasn't anything major. Where did you get the FOBs from? I've seen that many don't include the correct transponders, so that's great that yours did. Have you decided on a brand of tint? That whole industry is so full of smoke and mirrors, it's really frustrating, so I've yet to decide who's to use. Lumar does seem to be quite good, as does Global.
Well, I got the keys cut this morning @ $30/key. It was quite a job for the guy as the eBay no name fobs have a key blank just a tiny bit different than OEM and he had to hand file fine tune it to get them to work. I got home and they won't program to the car. The lock/unlock buttons work but they won't accept the programming to start the car. Not sure what to do with it now. I'll wait a bit and try again, I took the fobs apart and they have the little transponder tube in them. As far as tint I'll just go to the same guy that's been doing it for me for 25 years, he used to use Lumar but I think he uses Global now. In any case I'll get the good stuff. Ugh, drilled out the bumper and put my license plate bracket on.
Thomas, thank you again. Received my key fobs last night and programmed them this morning. It took me several tries as I wasn't flashing the lights quickly enough but it works like a charm............Jack.
Follow up. I got my key blanks cut this morning but the keys won't accept the start programming. The red PATS light just keeps flashing when I put them in after the two good keys. The remote works for lock/unlock. I did take the fobs apart and they do have the little transponder tube in the key head. Any suggestion?
Follow up. I got my key blanks cut this morning but the keys won't accept the start programming. The red PATS light just keeps flashing when I put them in after the two good keys. The remote works for lock/unlock. I did take the fobs apart and they do have the little transponder tube in the key head. Any suggestion?
Can you identify the transponder? You should be able to remove it to have a look. I've heard of many cases in which they came with the wrong one installed. The people were able to get them switched at a local locksmith.
Can you identify the transponder? You should be able to remove it to have a look. I've heard of many cases in which they came with the wrong one installed. The people were able to get them switched at a local locksmith.
The transponder is a small black glass cylinder, no identifying marks. I tried turning it around in the fob but that didn't work. I removed the chip (which looks completely different, smaller squarish) from one of my good keys and put that in the fob but still no luck. I'm thinking now to buy a used OEM fob from eBay and switching out the metal key head and trying to program that as I still have two keys that will start the car.
The transponder is a small black glass cylinder, no identifying marks. I tried turning it around in the fob but that didn't work. I removed the chip (which looks completely different, smaller squarish) from one of my good keys and put that in the fob but still no luck. I'm thinking now to buy a used OEM fob from eBay and switching out the metal key head and trying to program that as I still have two keys that will start the car.
If iit's opaque then it sounds like the wrong one. What my search shows is the Texas Crypto 4d60 which is translucent. I'd just call a few locksmiths first, they appear to be readily available and dirt cheap. That model works on Ford and Kia too so someone should have it in stock.
If iit's opaque then it sounds like the wrong one. What my search shows is the Texas Crypto 4d60 which is translucent. I'd just call a few locksmiths first, they appear to be readily available and dirt cheap. That model works on Ford and Kia too so someone should have it in stock.
Thanks, I'll check that out in the morning........Jack.
Follow up. I got my key blanks cut this morning but the keys won't accept the start programming. The red PATS light just keeps flashing when I put them in after the two good keys. The remote works for lock/unlock. I did take the fobs apart and they do have the little transponder tube in the key head. Any suggestion?
I am glad to hear that you managed to programm the fob, but that is for the remote locking only.
The transponder for the ignition needs to be programmmed via SDD. Basically and as a simplified explanation, the information stored in the transponder of the existing (and working) keys gets copied to the transponder of the new key. If you do not have SDD, there are key shops that have equipment that can do this job, as well.
And yes, there are diffferent types of transponders, but even the correct one will not work without the programming.
I am glad to hear that you managed to programm the fob, but that is for the remote locking only.
The transponder for the ignition needs to be programmmed via SDD. Basically and as a simplified explanation, the information stored in the transponder of the existing (and working) keys gets copied to the transponder of the new key. If you do not have SDD, there are key shops that have equipment that can do this job, as well.
And yes, there are diffferent types of transponders, but even the correct one will not work without the programming.
Best regards,
Thomas
I don't believe that's correct Thomas, I just re-read the documentation to be certain as you made me question my understanding of it. There are two distinct processes for programming both portions of the key without SDD. The process that involves having the door open and flashing the headlights programs the Fob. The one where you insert various keys and turn them to the run position programs the transponder. As far as SDD being required for the transponder programming goes, that is only if you don't already have two working programmed keys.
I am glad to hear that you managed to programm the fob, but that is for the remote locking only.
The transponder for the ignition needs to be programmmed via SDD. Basically and as a simplified explanation, the information stored in the transponder of the existing (and working) keys gets copied to the transponder of the new key. If you do not have SDD, there are key shops that have equipment that can do this job, as well.
And yes, there are diffferent types of transponders, but even the correct one will not work without the programming.
Best regards,
Thomas
Thomas, according to the link you sent at the beginning of this thread I should be able to program additional keys if I have two working keys which I have. That's what I tried and it didn't work. I also took the chip out of one of the good keys (I had three) and inserted it into the fob and that still wouldn't work. I'm taking a bit of time out now to reassess the probable problem.
Yes, also according to the Jaguar workshopmanual it should be possible to program additonal keys to work with the immobilizer of the car if you have to functioning keys.
Here's the relevant excerpts about key programming:
In any case, if the programming was not successful, a code reader (or SDD), would be useful to see whether there are some fault codes that could give a hint as to what did not work.
Do you have one? If not, it's something to consider buying as you will only be needing it in any case for the car.
What's also intersting and a bit worrying is that you say that you took out the transponder from one of the working keys and that it did not work when inserted into the new key. Have you tried if it works when put back into the key it was originally? If not, then it seems that the transponder got corrupted.
Yes, also according to the Jaguar workshopmanual it should be possible to program additonal keys to work with the immobilizer of the car if you have to functioning keys.
Here's the relevant excerpts about key programming:
In any case, if the programming was not successful, a code reader (or SDD), would be useful to see whether there are some fault codes that could give a hint as to what did not work.
Do you have one? If not, it's something to consider buying as you will only be needing it in any case for the car.
What's also intersting and a bit worrying is that you say that you took out the transponder from one of the working keys and that it did not work when inserted into the new key. Have you tried if it works when put back into the key it was originally? If not, then it seems that the transponder got corrupted.
Best regards,
Thomas
Yes, thank you again. Those are the steps I followed but the PATS light just keeps blinking after I insert the "to be programmed key". I took today off and will revisit the situation again tomorrow. The car is still driveable with the keys that I have so this has become a matter of, am I smarter than a key fob.
Yes, thank you again. Those are the steps I followed but the PATS light just keeps blinking after I insert the "to be programmed key". I took today off and will revisit the situation again tomorrow. The car is still driveable with the keys that I have so this has become a matter of, am I smarter than a key fob.
Haha Well if you don't have any luck with it, I should have SDD up and running in the next couple of days. My cable and charger are both set to arrive tomorrow, just need to get the software set up. BTW, I don't believe you saw that I replied to you in my intro thread, but if we do meet up I have a spare sun shade you can have if you haven't already bought one.
Haha Well if you don't have any luck with it, I should have SDD up and running in the next couple of days. My cable and charger are both set to arrive tomorrow, just need to get the software set up. BTW, I don't believe you saw that I replied to you in my intro thread, but if we do meet up I have a spare sun shade you can have if you haven't already bought one.
Fred, yeap, I missed your reply. No need for a sun shade as this Jag is car ported at home and won't see the road all that much, but thank you for the generous offer. I am planning on building a two car garage in the back yard to have a proper enclosure for my cars, but will require a permit variance from zoning dept. I'll have the slab poured by a professional and stick frame and build the garage myself.
Not sure. I bought them from eBay with many hundreds sold in the US. Will revisit the purchase to see if a frequency is mentioned.
sorry. I was stupid. I believe you said remote opening works... so it's right frequency. Starting ( transponder ) has nothing to do with those frequencies. I added confusion to your thread. Ignore my comment.
I will be interested to hear what your solution was.
Rob
Last edited by RobRAK; Aug 21, 2025 at 01:28 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Did you check you ordered the correct key FOB? 315 MHZ is USA and Japan, 433 MHZ is UK and most of Europe, as far as I recall.
I wasn't able to find any frequency numbers but the "model" number is NHVWB1U241.
I may have damaged (it looks okay) the chip when I took it out of a good key. When I insert the bare metal key in the ignition with a known good key next to it the car recognizes it. If I try it just using the chip I took out, nothing, the PATS light just keeps blinking. Since I only have two good keys left I'm not going to try and get another chip out of a good key.
Oops, I just saw your latest reply but thank you for trying to help. I'm going to try and track down another transponder as Fred suggested and see it that will work. So far, Key Fob 1, me 0.
Last edited by jbellK75; Aug 22, 2025 at 11:51 AM.
If iit's opaque then it sounds like the wrong one. What my search shows is the Texas Crypto 4d60 which is translucent. I'd just call a few locksmiths first, they appear to be readily available and dirt cheap. That model works on Ford and Kia too so someone should have it in stock.
Fred, I looked at the images of the transponder and they look just like mine. I ordered a replacement transponder which should be here in a few days and will see if that will program. Will let you know........Jack.
