It’s been a long time since I’ve had to post one of my own issues.

It all started with a bad P/S line, no big deal. Then it went very bad.

This has what’s been done.

Pulled air box, and intake pipe to plenum, to clean up P/S fluid. Cleaned it all up, reinstalled all intake parts. Started it up, drove off ramps, pulled back into driveway and noticed the Christmas tree including coolant temp light. Shut her down immediately, that was the last time she cranked over.

Now I get the Christmas tree, and all the fault associated with the classic “low battery” issue. including "cannot set park brake"

No crank, and can not release gear shift from park. I also noticed that the steering lock doesn’t lock. All the rest of electrical works fine, ie lights, seats ect.

I have checked the following:

Battery was good but 7 yrs old, changed to new.

Every fuse on front, and rear box.

All grounds are clean

Maf connection and all connectors that were removed for intake/filter box cleaning

“Not in park” sounds when pulling lever towards driver

Bolts on transmission cable present and tight

I can scan codes, but where to start? Live data?



It seems to act like its in gear. No crank. No locking column, no interlock unlock function on shifter.

The shifter does light does light up in park.

I have not checked mega fuse in boot, passenger fuse box

Everything I’ve read covers some of the issues in each post, but nothing definitive.

I am too far down the rabbit hole at this point.

Some have had issues with the front fuse box (relays), and others the shifter unit. Don’t want to throw parts at it just to guess. $$$

Thought it might be the interlock brake switch but that shouldn’t keep it from cranking

I’ve been staring at the diagrams for days, and can’t pinpoint which is the common denominator.

While watching the live battery data, the voltage doesn’t drop at all when trying to crank

Infotainment screen blacks out while trying to crank as it should

I have not done a load test on the new battery, but same thing happens when hooked up to jump start. Even a poor new battery should lock the steering and unlock the shifter


I know that's a lot but really need some help on where to start checking pinout, relays ect.

Thanks

Mark

2006 SV8

 

Hi Mark,

I'm probably the least qualified to solve what sounds like a difficult puzzle, but did you check to see if you have current to the ignition switch?

Best,

Steve S.

 

Start by scanning codes and post them here

 

What's the PATS light doing?
It's in the center of the dashboard in the demister panel.

It's item 2 in the diagram. It will flash codes so try and count the flashes. It will repeat the code 10 times. It's normally lighted for 3 seconds until the internal checks are done.





Here is additional symptoms.




Post back if it is the PATS.
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The car has been on hold for a long, long time. But here is the update.

The battle set up:

No rain for weeks, a real Power supply (can’t believe I’ve gone all these years without one). Same results as prior, no crank. Ran a full scan.

The codes were all over the place, but started to see a couple of the common items.

Massive codes on ECU from parking brake module, transmission, everything was pointing towards a bad/corroded ECU. Next step, go after the ECU connector, and pray that I don’t find it packed with corrosion.

I remembered a post about key RFID chips going bad and trying his other key worked. But I have never heard of a Jaguar/Land Rover chip going bad, ever, Transponders go bad, but not RFID chips.

I was out of holy water, so I tried.

Old 2nd key turned and the car FIRED UP! No way is this happening. It’s not LUCAS. Everything worked perfectly (shifter, parking brake, ect). Cycled it on and off a couple of times, fired right up.

Current key, also worked as above!

With absolutely no warning/fault dash lights.

It sort of freaked me out, so I took a break.

Came back to hook up and look at codes/live data, ect. Pluged in my carsoft, and nothing, back to the same dead car, no crank same faults as original. SH#T! Went after the ECU connector for corrosion, looked for water traces while disassembly. Found ONE tiny trace, but no ware near the connector, no leaves, all clean. Checked connector, all immaculate inside with no water signs. Cleaned out with contact cleaner, reassembled. Still no crank.

At least I’m confident the ECU and other modules aren’t toast, as it did start over and over with both keys. Yes, I’ve been monitoring the battery the whole time.

After reading pages and pages of 2006 SV8 schematics until my head blew up I decided to check the front fuse box again. All supplies read correctly off and run, except the following:

F2, F12, F13, F14 all read in “run” 1.13V ??? It was easier to look up the basic circuits they power in the owners handbook of all places.

F2 Throttle, F12 ECM, F13 Fuel Injectors, F14 Purge Valve/EGR/Mafs. Went to the scmatics and found they are all fed by….crap, PCB relay R11.

It seemed that it might be similar to the issue of R12 failing for other owners and installing a temporary relay to supply the heated O2 sensors, found under: front power distribution fuse box on the forum.

So instead of adding a fuse box saga, I’ll start another thread for that portion, and update this one.

 

I had similar results occur when I forgot to tighten down the ground cable on the passenger side of the engine bay, in the area of the cabin filter access door in the cowl panel. Close to where the top of the fender meets the inner fender (body structure), hood hinge area. Sorry I can’t provide pics or more information. It was a long ground wire with an eyelet on the end if memory serves me correctly.

 

You probably checked this but for what its worth...Ground points behind the headlights? Could one have been knocked and damaged during your work on the power steering.. Seems like a bad electrical connection?