Yes, I have watched that video and am aware of the filling technique/ temp. I think I've figured it out.

(I haven't done this yet)
1) jack up and level car
2) Drain Transmission fluid pan
3) Replace with new pan/filter & replace the common leaking sleve ring
4) hand pump in fresh fluid
5) Disconnect lower Trans cooler line and run to a drain pan
6) Start car and shift thru gears (old fluid will start to pump into drain pan)
7) I plan to let approx 1 quart at a time get pumped out, Turn off car add more fresh fluid repeat until the fluid runs clean. I plan to have 12 quarts of Mircon SP on hand.
8) follow temp guidelines to confirm transmission is at proper level and cap off.

 

The fluid is ejected with great force and more than a quart will be ejected within 3 seconds.
I had my wife turn the engine on and off for me while I did this as I did it a quart at a time.

 

Perfect. I'm pretty sure the fluid has never been changed and it has 130k on it so I prefer to get as much of the old out as possible.

 

I think that is a very good idea.

Others have had trouble installing a new sleeve unit. I had no trouble just took my time.

 

Hi Karaudio23,

I do have photos but have not had time to go through them, edit them, upload them an write captions. Sorry! I hope to do so in the near future.

Blowing out the cooler lines evacuates the old fluid from the cooler, but in order to replace the fluid in the TQ you need to run the engine. This ejects the old fluid from the lower of the two cooler line ports, and you can then add new fluid via either the upper cooler line port (very slow - there is no suction at this port), or at the fill plug (also pretty slow but at least the port is a little larger diameter).

I figured out a way to connect inexpensive vinyl hardware store tubing to the ports so I could direct the ejected old fluid into a graduated bucket, and use a funnel to replace the amount of ejected fluid with the same amount of new fluid. When clean fluid is ejected, you're finished with the flush. Use compressed air to blow out the cooler lines, with a vinyl hose connected to the opposite cooler line so you can collect the fluid in your graduated bucket.

I added about 1/2 quart more new fluid than I collected in the graduated bucket so the process of getting the fluid level correct would be one of just letting the fluid drain at the correct temperature, rather than having to add fluid and ensure the gearbox remained within the correct temperature range.

Personally, my recommendation is to do a full flush if you are willing to go to just a little more effort and buy the additional fluid. Ideally, I would do a full flush, then drain into a clean container, replace the pan/filter and sleeve, then refill with the new fluid you just drained. If you replace the pan/filter before you flush, you will run old fluid through your new filter, which seems less than ideal.

I promise I'll get photos posted eventually - live is just very full right now.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don. could you email me raw pictures and I can see if I can piece it together? I'm doing this tonight. the info you just provided was great!

 

Should 12 quarts be enough to do this the way you suggest? Wont the fluid mix in the pan causing it to all be dirty? Might it be a catch 22, dirty oil in new filter or slightly more contaminated oil? (I'm not an expert in any sense when it comes to this its just a honest question)

 

The pictures of the setup you used for the lines would be great. (or just knowing the diameter line used and approx length to pickup)

Could you leave the line feeding to the oil cooler attached and then use the return line to drain the oil rather than blowing out the lines with air essentially flushing the lines and cooler with fresh oil also?

 

If your willing to email me some pictures or would like me to snap some additional pictures when I'm doing it tonight I can. adam.kleinschmidt@ymail.com

 

HI
I think the concept is sound if you picture how the fluid flows through the tranny. It is 'sucked' up the tube that comes out of the filter in the pan, and so if you drain the pan, refill it, and then start pumping with the engine turning the torque converter and pump, then only clean fluid starts to be pumped through the system. It is a good way to go.

 

Update: I did the oil change tonight. I was able to disconnect just the upper line push on some clear plastic tube and run to the drain pan. (the tube looked kinked but it was still effective. its a tight space and i found a long needle nose pliers helpful for attaching the tube. I must have flushed more than I needed to as I went thru nearly 14 quarts of Micron SP. The lurch is gone and shifts are much more crisp! Also as a note to replace the sleeve pull the transmission cross member off to get reasonable access. The old sleeve slid out very easily and the new one I ordered on amazon required a hammer to tap it into place (make sure its aligned so you don't bend any pins.)

 

Real useful post, I am about to perform a trans flush on my 05 XJR (73k miles)
I'm interested in flushing out as much of the old fluid as possible. I will be using ZF lifeguard 6, and only have 8 quarts.. Maybe I should get more for this type of flush?
From reading this thread, here are the steps Ive gathered:
-Drain fluid and replace pan/filter
-Refill with new fluid
-Disconnect lower cooler line, hook tubing to it, direct to container
-Run engine, allowing fluid to pump out of cooler line, until clear fluid comes out.
-Refill with fresh fluid (same amount as what's been ejected from lower cooler port)
-Run until 35-45C operating temp is achieved, Replace fill plug. Done

the ZF fluid isnt cheap, so Id like to make sure I can do this as efficiently as possible.. I assume Ill drain out approx 6-7L from the pan, and perhaps another 2-3L from the lower cooler port w/ engine running?

 

Only allow about a quart at a time to pump out and replace about a quart before pumping more out and so on.

 

Maybe I'm going to ask a stupid question, so please indulge:
When draining the old fluid, changing the pan and refilling with new oil, and then flushing old fluid from cooler lines, converter, etc. while running the engine and shifting gears, isn't there a risk of creating air pockets and/or unwanted wear of some moving/turning pieces within the gearbox (or do these remain still during the process)?

 

Good question. Thats why I would only do a quart at a time, once initial fill is done, to minimize the possibility of damage.

 

A couple of questions for those that have changed the pan before. I've done it once before, but it has always shifted into reverse slow (a delay/lag--about the same amount of time it takes the passenger side rear view mirror to angle down. One other thing is that while it was supposed to take 5.5 quarts, it only took 4.5 quarts to fill it at 40c.

Now I'm getting what I guess is that squawk sound during some shifts. So I got a kit with the pan and 6 qts of ZF 6 (same as last time).

1. When you level the car, what surface do you use? Last time I used the underside of the frame/body just behind where the front jack goes. However, this time, after leveling it based on the frame/body, I decided to check the level of the pan and found that the rear is higher than the front. I don't think my jacks will go much higher, so was wondering where others have checked the level.

2. For those that had that noise and got rid of it, did you have someone do a complete flush, or did you just change the pan with the 5.5 quarts? I'd love to change the whole thing, but don't know how to o it and that's a lot of $23/quart fluid.

3. If any of you have done a flush by yourself, can you please advise the process? I assume you still have to do the level check after flushing. And if you do, what did you use? I can't see using $23/quart fluid to flush it.

Thanks in advance. I want to do this tomorrow if possible.

Best,

Gordon

 

HI
First, I'd recommend that you take the time to read the info in the forums thoroughly - this is an important step, and you want to do it right. I read a LOT of posts before I became comfortable with my decision.

Second, I'm stingy - after LOTS of research I came to believe that Ford Mercon SP is the identical chemical made by the same company (Shell Oil) that bottles up ZF Lifeguard. $7 versus $23 per quart. ZF makes transmissions, not oil, which it buys from an oil company (Shell).

Third, I simply bought 4 identical jack stands from Harbor Freight (all the same brand, as they do differ) and used the diagram of the proper jack positions to support the right areas. Didn't worry if I was off by 1 degree.

Four - I did it the old fashion way - kind of. I drained and refilled twice. I used an old household scale to weigh the amount of fluid I drained when I first replaced the pan - about 6.7 quarts after leaving it drain for a couple hours. There are about 11.5 quarts in the system, so it would be unwise to try and flush without at least 12 quarts on hand. Again, at $7 a quart, it doesn't hurt so much to have a case ready to go. I drained, waited, then refilled. Then ran the engine (while on the stands) for 20 minutes, then stopped, drained and refilled again. Then, the second time I made sure to get my level correct. I had just bought the car and was too nervous to try the 'run engine and let it pump' method.

Next time I'll do the 'use the engine to pump out the old as you pour in the new" method. This time, I took a funnel, taped a long plastic tube to it, and wrapped the last two feet of the tube with aluminum tape. I wedged the tube into the filler hole in the tranny, so I could just pour in fluid as I needed to. With $7 fluid, I was unaware of the 'pump' method and simply did it twice: Drained and filled, getting out 65% of the old fluid the first time, and then about 1/3 more the second. Not a 100% flush, but got most of it out.

I like the engine pumping method others have used as the fluid follows a linear path through the tranny and there should be no air pockets, which is also why you use the temperature method to make sure you put back in the right amount. If your tranny isn't shifting well now, you might be low in fluid, and simply replacing what you take out might not do it -you need to make sure you have exactly the right level of fluid when you are done. Temp measure is a pain, but you have to get it right.

Good luck with it.

 

The original posting had to do with the high cost of shop or dealer transmission flushes. I was surprised (no, astonished) when I was charged only $300 by Jaguar of Hartford CT. So much so that I asked them three times what the price was, before I had it done. They said it was a "machine flush" but did not elaborate.

 

I found this ZF video informative and assisted me in visualizing what everyone has been posting.

 

I'm in WV, also. What shop did you take it to?