Folks, I can use some advise.
I undertook updating rear upper and lower control arms in my car, 2004 VDP. I was planning to do it for a long time. got parts. the whole shebang.
I did driver side, personally I think I lucked out: I did the whole thing without dropping subframe nor taking out airspring.
Now I am working on passenger side. Here is a problem I run into:
rear inner bushing of an upper arm. I was successful in removing nut from that bushing's bolt; other bushing and ball joint are disconnected already. I am pushing bolt out with nothing more than just finger pressure. Bolt moved but then stopped.
After some time time working on it and with help of additional light source I see that head of the bolt or captive washer under the head are hitting body of subframe and/or body of a car above. I need to figure out how much of the bolt is still engaged in the bushing. Upper control arm does not want to come out.
I can devise a way to take the control arm in pieces: cut of rear part of wishbone and/or gut out already destroyed hydro bushing.
The question remains how to install new control arm if I cant remove bolt out completely.
If I could increase the space between body and subframe by most 5mm I will be home free!
So, my question is for all those gurus that used to work on these cars:
What does it takes to lower subframe by 5 mm? Can I do it by loosing few subframe bolts while supporting subframe with jack?

Thanks in advance for any advise.
P.S. I will have some picture of my predicament. I neglected to take any today.
OK, some pics, this should give viewer some idea of the issue:

 

Sorry I don't have great advice here--I can confirm I replaced the rear upper arms on my '06 without touching the subframe (did have to R&R the brake hose).

In your picture those are metal sections the bolt runs into? I wonder if Jag changed the design for the '06-onward or for the LWB models. I agree, cutting things will help get the old part out, but not the new part in.

I recall having the entire wheel liner out to get the arms done, wonder if you can see a way around this with that removed?

 

One other thought:
I should measure how much of screw length remains in the bushing. I will do it using 'deep stick' method. Then, if it is a small amount; then my approach of cutting control arm in place may work!
After I will get screw out I will be able to grind off length that is in excess. and dress up leading end.
Too bad I already assembled driver side and torqued it up. I am not in the mood to get it out to compare bolts!

 

OK! I GOT IT!
Important thing is to get old CA out. Cut it out, slice-&-dice it. whatever.
Then I should be able to get the bolt out it will have more room to move bolt's head.
Now where the elegant part comes in: I will insert the troubling bolt from other side, where nut was and put nut where the head is now!
Now I have to wait for the weekend to finish it.
WOW! I feel good about myself!

 

I had the same issue no need too cut anything just take a flathead and a hammer and hammer on the inside side of the head of the bolt then do as you did and put it on thru the other side.

 

Thanks, Broken!
Hammering away, I will keep this as a last resort.
Meanwhile, I had a day off today and decided to move ahead with my plan.
First, lets see how much interference is there, meaning how much of the bolt still sticks into bushing:
Step one improvise a gage:

The above shows a dipstick and how far bolt needs to be, to clear the bushing
Below is how much far I need to pull bolt more to free CA it shows also bolt from front bushing of same CA, same length

This gave me a food for thought: tip of the bolt is tapered; I am pushing it straight out; however, if I tilt bolt away from bushing ceterline....
I have a tool that I use very seldom:

I grabbed bolt by the 'neck' and pulled head outboard. At first it did not move. Then I took a breath; CA is completely loose Ball joint disconnected, front bushing bolt removed...
Let's push CA so, ball joint moves forward as far as it goes.
Let's grab bolt' by the neck again:


Viola!
It is all downhill from here!
I will be able to to put it together on Saturday
Bleed breaks
Calibrate suspension
Schedule wheel alignment

New rear suspension!
BTW I also replaced air spring bushings; they did not need to be replaced, but I already there and I did ordered them just in case. I made myself a bushing extraction tool. Here it is in action:

This taken when new bushing is pressed all the way in
If someone would like a drawings how to make it send me PM

 

Im glad you got that bolt out. I just had the whole debacle of changing those bushings. I found the clearances on those bolt heads to be absolutely the least possible, but it was doable (for me) without too much fuss. I gave myself just as much trouble by not removing the wheel well liner.

 

Happy to report:
Car is back in service: new rear control arms uppers and lowers;
Breaks bled; I realized that one of the banjo bolts connection was not plugged properly and fluid end up on the garage floor and nothing in the line from master cylinder.
I had to bleed master cylinder, then using SDD to purge ABS pump. Keep in mind that you need to remove outer break pads to bleed rear breaks, according to JLR bulletin. Looks like there are some restrictions inside fluid path in rear calipers. What really did not make sense is that bulletin suggested to bleed calipers while they are not bolted to brackets. Nah! one need to support caliper with bleeding nipple being on top of fluid path, best way to do it is bolt to bracket!
Calibrating suspension was a learning experience with SDD:
I have 14.6V 60A RV charger. I use it as maintainer, and desulfiticator in winter when jag is dormant.
I have 12v computer switching power supply 50A . It has fine voltage adjustment. The adjustment allows to set voltage to 12.8V.
I had difficult of a time to do anything with it. To the point SDD would not read VIN.
The battery is NOT AGM, 900CCA. That could be a problem.
I noticed that in SDD battery icon is 'half green' at best, after few engine starts it goes to 'half red' then SDD almost none responsive.
Later, I found DTC saying battery voltage out of range. 14.6 V from RV charger (?) while trying to use SDD.
Anyway, I was frustrated that I can't calibrate suspension for few days.
Good thing I have in office programmable very clean power supply 50A. It also have fixed 13.8V setting.
Brought it home and finally got both battery icon and Mongoose icon green in SDD!
Calibrated suspension from first try! HOORAY!
Used this opportunity to clear transmission adaptations that took more than an hour computer updating and me watching clock in SDD.
Now car is back together rides wonderfully!
Lesson learned: do not try to use SDD if battery icon and Mongoose icon any color but green
I guess front suspension is in the cards for next winter break.
Immediate task is to gather and clean tools: they are all over the floor!