What are your thoughts on rust protection on these aluminum cars?

I know the suspension and cradles could benefit, but I'm not sure if drilling holes for door skin access is a good idea.

I have the car booked in for Krown, but I'm not sure what to tell them to do.
Rob

 

Rust proofing is never a bad idea, as, although aluminium does not rust, there is the possibility of corrosion.

For door skin access, instead of drilling holes I would rather remove the door boards for access, as they can be removed fairly easily.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

The only place rusting is front and rear subframe and the oilfilter and crumbling screws from below.
loosen each screw grease and put back in.
the desiccant beads in the drier chamber at the compressor ( front lfront left side behind bumper in front of tyre) are worth being exchanged to keep the airsuspension system dry esp. Valveblock and struts.
feel your carpets foot room front and back
Keep pollenfilterbox clean and make shure water can drain at bottom hole down behind front wheel.
If sunroof try on an incline 4 holes 2front 2rear with a tiny bit of water should come out at the tyres

 

Pull slightely on the seal lower part of each door and wiggle a bit so the grime inside door is loosened and lets water pass through the seal.
have a look belov spare tyre for humidety . Wich could come in at the riveted glued seams right below rear window in each corner... clean up put transparent silicone in the seam . The other place is through the seal of the rear lights touching the painted alum wich can get pretty dirty 3 screws , unplug take out , clean , put a little bit of grease for leather on the seal put back in tighten and tighten again a hint more a couple of days later

 

I spray Fluid Film on all my vehicles. For the Jag I do the same as all the others. I coat the entire underbody of the vehicle, I get into all the small holes and tight spaces, I coat spots along the engine bay under the hood, and any existing rubber seals I pop out and spray some in there. Only downside is it has to be applied yearly. However, I don't drive the XJR in the winter, so I treat that one every two or three years. Takes me about two hours to do each car. My truck takes a bit longer.

 

The front and rear subframes rust, being steel, and also the straps supporting the fuel tank which are very badly protected, One rusted through on my first X350 and I bought Jaguar replacements, as there was no after-market provision. I then made sure the new straps were better protected. However, I have seen that there are stainless steel ones now available on the after market.

There would be no harm in using the usual rust-protection products on the aluminium parts as they will protect against the aluminium corrosion process, which produces aluminium hydroxide, a white powder. This happens in crevice areas where oxygen is not present or is in low amounts, but water is present and especially salt water. This is why airports don't use salt on runways and taxi areas, using urea instead. Aluminium exposed in the open, forms an oxide layer on the surface that prevents further corrosion. The industrial anodising process makes this oxide layer a lot thicker, and at the same time colour can be added in the process too. When I owned my MG Midget the windscreen frame was anodised aluminium, and was is perfect condition even though the car was well over 35 years old when I bought it.