XJ XJ6 / XJ8 / XJR ( X350 & X358 ) 2003 - 2009

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Old Dec 17, 2023 | 11:15 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Wingrider
Jag Dog.
Fully charge the battery before any testing is done.
Let it set overnite then check the reading.
Anything less than i believe 12.8 volts.
Indicates the battery is lgetting weak.
Cruse not available when first starting.
Is a heads up for the battery needing attention
General rule, if you suspect the battery is to take it to an auto parts store, or other place, that can charge it and do a load test. As batteries age, sometimes they can develop surface charges. In that case the voltage reads fine, but there is inadequate actual charge capacity.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2023 | 08:29 PM
  #22  
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Thanks everyone for your prompt responses to my issues. I have some things that I will be checking on over the next several days and I will come back and update the group. So I do have one additional question. So when I use my scantool to deflate my system, I can hear the air releasing from when I deflate the rear suspension but when I try to do it on the front, it does nothing. No air releasing or nothing and the height stays the same. I crawled under the car to check on the ride height sensors as I was instructed by some members and I noticed that the bracket that holds the front ride height sensor in place was missing. So I made a makeshift bracket to brace it in place but to no avail, the air ride will not calibrate nor will it release air from the front suspension when I use the scan tool to deflate the front axle. So my question is this: are there two relief valves on the compressor? One for the front and one for the back or is the valve block in the trunk responsible for releasing pressure to both the front and the rear axles? As it relate to the ride height sensor, I'm going to order a new one being that the bracket is missing. Could the ride height sensor be the issue as to why air will not release from the front when I use my scan tool to deflate?
 
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Old Dec 18, 2023 | 08:15 AM
  #23  
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Your in pretty deep? Is the scanner the Jaguar dealer tool SDD?
I have spent many hours inside SDD attempting to do similar things.

What little I know is the valve block releases the air so "I think" that's the only place you will hear it? It's been a while and since I went to springs I have tried to forget the endless "plausibility" errors the system tends to throw. Have you seen that error yet?

You have not got to the leveling procedure yet but be aware that you likely will need to "fool" the system to get a level car. Too complicated to go into it right now but you can put any number you want in for the ride height. So don't get stuck because you entering the actual measurements and the system still won't level. I usually need to go thru that several times with various numbers to get close.
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Old Dec 19, 2023 | 12:47 PM
  #24  
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Clubairth1
So according to what we are seeing from the scan tool and from what we are reading here on the forum as well as another forum that my mechanic is reading, the car is in Transport mode and will not come out. I have read here on the forum that the only way to get it out of transport mode is by a jag dealer. I have called one dealership and they will not take a look at it and the other I called said that they are not sure they even have that software anymore to work on a car that old. So my question to you and to the entire group is this: Is this SDD that you are referring able to take the car out of transport mode? If so, where can I purchase this SDD?
 
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Old Dec 19, 2023 | 02:32 PM
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Do yourself a favor and avoid SDD/IDS if possible. Although I personally use it, its a fairly formidable task to find the right version(s for our cars (v1.31, v1.36) and install and operate it.

If you really believe it's in Transport mode, buy a simple scanner that can enable/disable Transport mode.

My Foxwell can, and the attached link says the this scanner can do it.
Amazon Amazon

Other members probably can verify a specific scanner tool. Best Regards...ct

p.s., you are only about 2 hrs from me, If you really really need help, just reach out via PM, and I can ride up there and help.

p.s.s if you are thinking of just tossing in the towel and going to the Arnott coil over solution - I wholeheartedly agree with Wfooshee on the viability of doing the retrofit in your own garage. Having done two XJ's, its really not a very hard task, and the Arnott explanation id very clear. I do suggest, do an inventory before you start, and replace any common damaged/worn, i.e.; rear sway bar links, tie rods, control arms with rotted rubber covers, etc, etc. I attached the install manual for Arnott coil overs, it really is quite simple. I will attest the ride is different; I actually prefer it, a little less cushy but the feedback from the road surfaces seems sharper and, to me, improved.
 
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
c-2745_installation_manual.pdf (5.83 MB, 58 views)
File Type: pdf
C-2745.pdf (3.50 MB, 35 views)

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Old Dec 20, 2023 | 08:11 AM
  #26  
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I use a Foxwell NT510 scanner for servicing my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L, and it works for me.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2023 | 09:33 AM
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If those aftermarket scanners can take the car out of transport mode then yes they are easier to use. Now that's getting very deep into the car?
Can you post a picture of that scanner giving you the different options for the air suspension?

I have and use SDD but do agree with you that it is a monster to master or even use at all!
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Old Dec 20, 2023 | 11:47 AM
  #28  
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[QUOTE=clubairth1;2704675]Your in pretty deep? Is the scanner the Jaguar dealer tool SDD?
I have spent many hours inside SDD attempting to do similar things.

What little I know is the valve block releases the air so "I think" that's the only place you will hear it? It's been a while and since I went to springs I have tried to forget the endless "plausibility" errors the system tends to throw. Have you seen that error yet?

You have not got to the leveling procedure yet but be aware that you likely will need to "fool" the system to get a level car. Too complicated to go into it right now but you can put any number you want in for the ride height. So don't get stuck because you entering the actual measurements and the system still won't level. I usually need to go thru that several times with various numbers to get close.
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Old Dec 20, 2023 | 11:51 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ctsemicon
Do yourself a favor and avoid SDD/IDS if possible. Although I personally use it, its a fairly formidable task to find the right version(s for our cars (v1.31, v1.36) and install and operate it.

If you really believe it's in Transport mode, buy a simple scanner that can enable/disable Transport mode.

My Foxwell can, and the attached link says the this scanner can do it. https://www.amazon.com/LAUNCH-Diagno...0C7MNXRJX?th=1

Other members probably can verify a specific scanner tool. Best Regards...ct

p.s., you are only about 2 hrs from me, If you really really need help, just reach out via PM, and I can ride up there and help.

p.s.s if you are thinking of just tossing in the towel and going to the Arnott coil over solution - I wholeheartedly agree with Wfooshee on the viability of doing the retrofit in your own garage. Having done two XJ's, its really not a very hard task, and the Arnott explanation id very clear. I do suggest, do an inventory before you start, and replace any common damaged/worn, i.e.; rear sway bar links, tie rods, control arms with rotted rubber covers, etc, etc. I attached the install manual for Arnott coil overs, it really is quite simple. I will attest the ride is different; I actually prefer it, a little less cushy but the feedback from the road surfaces seems sharper and, to me, improved.
Ctsemicon,
Thank you for your reply, let me give you this information and see what you think. And before I forget, if I can't get this done soon, I sure will take you up on the offer to assist. A two hour drive is not bad. Okay here is what I want you to know.

I have a scan tool that gives me rhe option to to deflate, inflate, geometry and calibrate. But when we try to deflate the front suspension it does nothing. When we deflate rhe rear, it bleeds the air out and the car goes down. But when we do the geometry or inflate or calibrate, the compressor runs, it lifts the back 1st then the front then the back until it reaches max height then the front again until it reaches max height. After this, the compressor will just run for a while then stop, then start again and continues to do this. The compressor will not stop off and on. So we never get the opportunity actually perform the calibration. So my question is, can anyone tell me if what I explained is due to not having a dealer level scan tool or is there an issue with the air ride system somewhere.
My buddy who is a mechanic says the car is stuck in transport mode. The only code is C2780 and the DIC shows air suspension fault and vehicle too low.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2023 | 02:55 PM
  #30  
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As Rickk mentioned - I have a Foxwell NT510 Elite, and I just connected it and it specifically lists "Transport Mode/Customer Mode" enable /disable) under special functions menu. So, that would allow you to toggle it on/off.

My thoughts are; 1) it really is in Transport Mode, which is somehow inhibiting the Calibration routine from running, or, 2) Its possible the ASM has somehow gotten corrupted, and needs SDD to reload and return to "As-Built", or, 3) ASM is just plain buggered up.

I doubt it's 3), as these are pretty robust and I see little to no historical info on dead ASM units. If it was me, I would get a scanner that can toggle Transport mode, and do that first. If it still persists, then using SDD might be needed.

best regards...

P.S; Oh, do you have any idea how it got into Transport Mode? I don't see anything in the thread that indicates how it got there in the first place?
 

Last edited by ctsemicon; Dec 20, 2023 at 02:57 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 08:29 AM
  #31  
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Good morning Ctsemicon,

After I done some research on my own scan tool, I was able to update the software on it and when I did, the transport mode option to toggle from transport mode to customer mode appeared. So I used it and put the car in customer mode. So as of now the transport mode is not the case. So to answer your question of how it got there, this is all I know. I took my xjr into a local shop of my high school classmate who also owns a jag and he works on them for a few other customers as well as land rovers. I took it there because the car needs front end work so I was getting some of it done and my plan was to get the remainder done after Christmas. He put on lower control arms, inner tie rods and something else. But anyway, prior to taking the car in for repairs, there was no issue with the ride height or anything. When I went to pick it up, the car was low and the dic said car to low. He told me that they do that some time and to drive it a short distance and it should begin to level itself out. Well I don't live very far from the shop so I drove it home and nothing happen. I got on the jaguar forums and read where people have had to calibrate the ASU/ASM and so I pulled out my scan tool and went out to see if I could calibrate it. Once I got to the calibration, when I put the factory height for the front at 386 and rear at 373, the car started leveling up but it would not stop, it just kept leveling the back then the front, to the back to the front and just kept going and going and going. So I called my guy who did the work and we got the car back to him. He scanned it with his scan tool and tried to calibrate it with his and the compressor comes on and just keeps trying to raise the car from the back to the front and keeps going ang going and going. The only code that comes up is the C2780 and the DIC says air suspension fault and car to low. He looked at a few things and saw all the sensors giving readings and then something came up that showed him the car needed to be diagnosed by dealer. So he went inside and looked up somethings on his computer and he came out and told me that it was in transport mode and only a dealer or someone with SDD to get it out.

Let me add, that when I got the car back and once it got in this funk or maxing out the ride height, I noticed that the front ride height sensor bracket was broken. I got under there and braced it back up and it's still intact now and has been for about a week now but the issue still persist. Ctsemicon you mention that you would be willing to assist and to message you directly. I'm knew to the forums so I have not looked around at how to do that just yet. So I will be trying to figure that out to touch base with you.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 10:59 AM
  #32  
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OK, so, we are getting to the root cause . After looking at the history you put in last reply, here is what I'm thinking;

IF the mechanic doing the F.E.work broke the sensor bracket (quite possible), that has confused the ride height. Now, if you did not get the makeshift bracket just so, then the ride height value is snookered.

I HIGHLY recommend getting a factory replacement bracket. A VERY small change in bracket/sensor translates to a very large change in feedback to sensor that translates to ride height.

Now, as for the data values you are entering to set ride height...I had converted both my cars to Arnott before I ever learned the proper way to do this; Please, other members with Calibration experience please chime in.
Jag Dog, read over this thread before attempting calibration again. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ur-x350-75369/

Don't spend $ on Valve Block or Compressors - I have two perfectly working Compressors and two perfectly good Valve Blocks in the shed from my prior conversions. I'll PM you back soon as I submit this reply.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 02:23 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by ctsemicon
OK, so, we are getting to the root cause . After looking at the history you put in last reply, here is what I'm thinking;

IF the mechanic doing the F.E.work broke the sensor bracket (quite possible), that has confused the ride height. Now, if you did not get the makeshift bracket just so, then the ride height value is snookered.

I HIGHLY recommend getting a factory replacement bracket. A VERY small change in bracket/sensor translates to a very large change in feedback to sensor that translates to ride height.

Now, as for the data values you are entering to set ride height...I had converted both my cars to Arnott before I ever learned the proper way to do this; Please, other members with Calibration experience please chime in.
Jag Dog, read over this thread before attempting calibration again. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ur-x350-75369/

Don't spend $ on Valve Block or Compressors - I have two perfectly working Compressors and two perfectly good Valve Blocks in the shed from my prior conversions. I'll PM you back soon as I submit this reply.
OK i looked at the thread that you suggest that I read. Thanks for that. I'm not home right now and I can't respond to your pm on my phone. When I did it wants me to add credit card information so I'll try again once I'm home.

The Tuesday after Christmas is fine with me if you will have the time. If nothing else if you are coming to Florence, maybe I can meet you to get one of those compressors and valve blocks from you. I got what you said about the factory bracket and my makeshift bracket. I will get on that. Do you think this is a part that local parts house will have or will I need to oder online? In fact where do you suggest I purchase this from? I will pm you once I get home to discuss meeting.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2023 | 03:36 PM
  #34  
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The part number in the below drawing for #13 is XR834832. Please see the attached from Jaguar dealer I order parts from in Tenn.
https://parts.harperjaguar.com/v-200...rol-components
That price is a little ridiculous, so maybe cloning it out of piece of sheet metal makes more sense.




 
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Old Dec 23, 2023 | 02:42 PM
  #35  
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1.First idea reading your first post. They have been working on the front end . So your height sensor/ s might have been damaged. Had a high trousers situation last winter . Rear right went up to 460mm and right front to 430mm and was superstiff. Both right side so I changed them all 4. (On 2003)
. At jaguar you should be able tp get brantd new front ones for about 80£€.
2.The other thing is the sensor plug on top of the struts. If they have not been removed forget about that
3 . Pressure release valve at the compressor not working anymore. This is the only place (other than leaks)
where exess pressure should be released.
so try both plugs on the compressor. Plus the cables if it does not work then.

 
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Old Dec 26, 2023 | 11:13 PM
  #36  
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Good evening everyone, thank you all so much for all of your input, I've been checking and reading and checking and reading and checking some more. LOL Well here is the update, after the front end work, the front ride height sensor bracket was damaged and a part was missing as well as installed at the wrong orientation. So I played around with it and finally got it to the correct orientation and I begin to see the car respond to movement of the arm of the sensor. Next, I changed the valve block and between the two things done so far, the car did not rise to maximum height. It still was stiff and not quite right. It still would not go through calibration either. Ctsemicon suggested that maybe due to the bracket damage and orientation of the ride height sensor the back is chasing the front and vice versa, and maybe this has confused the ASU Module. Well the next thing I did was change out the ASU and wouldn't you know it, everything leveled out now. So as far as this part of my journey is concerned, it's fixed now. Thank you Jesus and thank each of you for your words of wisdom.

For those of you who pray, please keep me in prayer, I'm having knee replacement surgery in the morning, Dec 27th 2023. Needless to say, I will not be doing much work on the car for a while, at least I got the air suspension correct so it's at least drivalbe. I would like to ask this question for future reference. What is the best procedure to take when front end work is done, should I disconnect the battery and pull the fuse on the suspension compressor? The next thing that I plan to try and get fixed after I have recovered from surgery enough is to see why none of my windows will come down. Sunroof opens just fine but not the windows and they don't work from none of the doors nor any switch. I'm getting a code of driver seat module out of range and passenger side mirror ground to short. You guys can leave your responses, I'll be back to check on them in a few days. Thanks again for all of your help.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2024 | 09:18 AM
  #37  
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Hello, Jag Dog. I hope your surgery went well and you are not too uncomfortably resting at home.
I may have missed it, but I don't see where you've done anything with the battery. If not, take the car to NAPA and have them load test it. I just replaced the battery in my 04 XJR with their best battery, because the NAPA battery in the car was 9 years old....and still working. So, I'm pleased with NAPA and they beat Autozone and Advance Auto on price, too. Take your tools, because they don't replace the battery for you as others do. After you are safely home, unhook the battery cables and short the ends together for a couple of minutes as suggested before. Get a good battery maintainer, I have Diehard, and charge the battery overnight. This should eliminate battery voltage as the culprit for some of the other issues you are having.
My guess along with some others here, is that if the level switch bracket was broken, the switch got damaged in the process. I'd replace them both.
If you go the coilover route, I used the Blackdog Kit from Motorcars LTD. Unless you have a lift and I did, and have exactly the right tools and know exactly what to do, it is not an afternoon job. Watch the videos online first and then set aside a day or two so there's no rush and have at it. Be sure to get a kit that kills the suspension fault light.
Good luck with your repairs and the car's repairs. Let us know how it goes. These cars definitely require TLC, but I don't know of a better car. I've had my 04 for 11 and a half years and she has over 170k miles on her. I'm still amazed how good she is on a long trip.
 

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Old Jan 2, 2024 | 11:20 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by luv2fly
Hello, Jag Dog. I hope your surgery went well and you are not too uncomfortably resting at home.
I may have missed it, but I don't see where you've done anything with the battery. If not, take the car to NAPA and have them load test it. I just replaced the battery in my 04 XJR with their best battery, because the NAPA battery in the car was 9 years old....and still working. So, I'm pleased with NAPA and they beat Autozone and Advance Auto on price, too. Take your tools, because they don't replace the battery for you as others do. After you are safely home, unhook the battery cables and short the ends together for a couple of minutes as suggested before. Get a good battery maintainer, I have Diehard, and charge the battery overnight. This should eliminate battery voltage as the culprit for some of the other issues you are having.
My guess along with some others here, is that if the level switch bracket was broken, the switch got damaged in the process. I'd replace them both.
If you go the coilover route, I used the Blackdog Kit from Motorcars LTD. Unless you have a lift and I did, and have exactly the right tools and know exactly what to do, it is not an afternoon job. Watch the videos online first and then set aside a day or two so there's no rush and have at it. Be sure to get a kit that kills the suspension fault light.
Good luck with your repairs and the car's repairs. Let us know how it goes. These cars definitely require TLC, but I don't know of a better car. I've had my 04 for 11 and a half years and she has over 170k miles on her. I'm still amazed how good she is on a long trip.
Good afternoon Luv2fly,
I pray all is well with you. Thanks for your response, and no I have not replace the battery as of yet. I'm working on getting that done today or tomorrow. Once I get it done, I will keep everyone posted on how it goes. Thanks for the well wishes with the surgery, it went well and thank God the pain is under control. I just got done with a round of therapy.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2024 | 07:13 PM
  #39  
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Good evening, I have some updates for the group. I had a new battery installed today. I installed another battery that is identical to what was in the car. So I hear people making mention about at AMG or AGM battery, what is the difference between that and a normal battery and should an AGM/AMG battery be in the jag? I cleared all codes once the new battery was installed but I still have issues with the windows and key fob, lock and unlock.

So when I got the car, none of the windows worked, they will not come down at at all and I've tried each window from the switch on each door. After new battery, they still don't work. So I've replaced the master window switch on driver door but it doesn't work. I also changed the driver door module. Still no working windows. So I'd greatly appreciate any assistance.

Also, the key fobs does not work properly. So when I got the car, it would lock the car but not unlock it. I was given two additional new uncut key fobs and so I took one and had it cut and tried programing both keys, the program took and was successful, but the new one will not control anything but the original fob still will only lock the doors. Not unlock. I can use either key and lock and unlock manually and it works but when I use the key to unlock the doors, as soon as I open the driver door, the alarm sounds and once I put the key in the ignition, the alarm stops. Anyone can help with these issues, please by all means do so.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2024 | 03:41 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Rickkk
Installing the Arnott C-2290 coil/springs isn't that easy. Actually, it took the shop all day to install those coil/springs on my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L, and there were several mechanics working on it at times. Afterwards, the shop did perform an alignment, and then a road test.
I got a jaguar xjr x350 2005 4.2 v8 supercharged I had the same problem the front end pumping up to high took it for a slow drive still did not level found out there is one front level sensor if I remember it was on the drivers side uk Britain right side I changed that it cost me about £30 for the part whill I was at it I changed the valves on to of the front struts the parts 2 of them they are about £15 for the two after that took for a drive perfect from Robert rawle South Wales UK Britain
 
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