Good Morning!
Re: AGM versus conventional battery. AGM is what works best in Jag...AGM is a "glass mat" where there is no sloshy liquid and the cells are separated by the glass mat material (fiberglass in most). Conventional is the type where you have the caps at top where you add water as the sulfuric acid is depleted. AGM, sealed for life, is much lower maintenance and the way to go (but I'm sure someone will correct me ).

Ok, now for the key fob and windows. One item of note; when you disconnect battery, you must cycle each window three times full up/full down so that ECU "learns" the positions before the auto one-touch fast up/down functions. Not your particular issue, but just a note to remember.

As for your issue - I am pretty sure it is the Driver Door Module. The DDM has to be programmed to the car; just swapping in one from another car will not do it. The only way I know how to do this is with SDD. Other members - any experience programming a new DDM into car, and, can it be done by any third party scanner?

I would try the procedure listed in this link first...and see if it re configures Key Fob to Remote Keyless Entry in the DDM. https://www.autoreservejaguar.com/ne...ns-for-xj-x350

Very glad to hear surgery went well. Best Regards, CT

 

Jag Dog, other than battery, the rest is over my head. I've seen the discussion on AGM and conventional, but as I mentioned, the NAPA Legend 7549 worked fine for me for 9 years and I only replaced it as a precaution. You might check if your nearest Jag store can recommend an indie to check your car, one familiar with these cars and SDD. Jaguar of Columbia will probably not work on it, but they might know an indie that will. Maybe there is a tech online here with SDD close to you.

 

Great! I'm very glad that it all worked for you! As for the Arnott C-2290 coil/spring conversion on my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L, all I could tell you was that after the Goodyear auto service center had completed the changeover, and followed up with a front end alignment, there was no "settling down" whatsoever with the 2005 Jaguar XJ8L. The wheel height was perfect right off the bat,, and so was the ride & handling.

One thing to remember was that Jaguar was fully aware that the air suspension systems in the Jaguar XJ8Ls were trouble prone, and the company subsequently omitted the front air struts on later models.. I mean, that should tell you something right then and there. Speaking for myself (and I'm sure for others as well), I have to drive a car that is dependable, and I'm afraid that the troublesome air suspension system on the Jaguar XJ8s falls well short of that. Well, after the Arnott C-2290 coil/spring conversion on my 2005 Jaguar XJ8L, I never looked back. By the way, my Jaguar handled much better around the curves after the conversion too.

 

Thanks Ctemicon,
Now I know the difference but I'll have to switch to the AGM the next time as the standard battery has already been installed. I tried the keyless entry key fob remote procedure that you left the link for. However, it still only locks the doors, and will not unlock them.

 

Maybe worth a try.
take the key apart clean the contacts inside with Q tip and alcool

 

Good evening everyone. So just to give you all an update. I took the negative battery cable off for a few hours and zip tied it to positive cable. After a few hours I put the negative cable back on, the alarm begin to go off and would not turn off. So I'm stuck like Chuck. If I open the door the alarm starts to go off. Help help help

 

Put your key in the ign to stop alarm sounding.

The reason that the alarm goes off when you open the driver's door is because
of a faulty position switch in the drivers door actuator, These switches are of the 'wipe' type
and wear out with time and should tell the electronics if the door is locked or unlocked.
They are buried deep in the actuator which you have to destroy to reach them.
When using the remote you have a few seconds to insert the key and if you do that
straightaway every time then the system learns that you are not 'breaking and entering'
and the alarms will cease.
This has been my experience since I have the same faulty switch
WRT not unlocking I suspect that this is because the remote is not properly programmed to the JAG
You can remedy this buy using the head lamp flashing method NB Yo must flash very quickly.

The other possibility is a bad connection on one of the pins which plug into the DDM

Good Luck

 

Good morning Meirion,
when I put the key in the ignition it doesn't stop. It just keeps on going off until it stop on it on and then as soon as I open the door, it's right back to going off. I tried light switch dimmer switch to reprogram but I still get the same result.

 

Did you connect the -ve cable to the +ve cable when it was still connected on the battery?
If so try removing both off the battery and connect them together for a few mins.

 

^^^^^ This

Touch the cables to each other away from the battery. It doesn't seem like it should make a difference, but it does.

 

Good evening,
I did not remove both positive and negative battery ends. I just removed the negative and zip tied it to the positive battery end which was still on the battery post. I will try what you all suggest tomorrow. I will remove both the battery ends away from the battery and zip tie them together. Someone else made mention that the DDM need to be programed and they are not plug and play. So I will put the original DDM back in as well. I will update the group once I have done these things.

 

As for touching the cables together, it's not necessary to tie them and leave them for several minutes. All I've ever needed for a reset was a momentary touch, just a few seconds.

 

Good evening everyone, I hope all is well. Okay so here is my update on the car. I took battery ends loose and tied them with zip tie. I put the old DDM back in the door and once I was done with that, I put the battery ends back on and the alarm started going off. I grabbed a key and put it in the door and turned the key twice to my left and the alarm stopped. I put the key in the ignition and the car crank. I looked at the DIC and the car was still in valet mode. So I left one key in the ignition and went to the trunk with the other key and unlocked the trunk and turned the key twice in the unlock direction and I closed the trunk back. I went around to the driver seat and pushed the trunk button and it opened and so did the glove box. I checked the DIC and the valet mode information was gone. Thank God for that. LOL

So now that I have that out of the way, does anyone have any ideas as to what possibly may be wrong with the windows. When I got the car, my uncle was having issues with the windows not working properly. At the present, none of the windows will work at all. The light to the driver door master switch comes on when you push the lock out button for the passenger windows so I know that power is getting to the switch. I have changed the switch and I still get the same result. If anyone have an ideas, I welcome them.

 

The Electrical Guide indicates a Global Open/Close switch pack on the centre console.

Do you have that?

 

I will double check but I don't think so. The only open close switch that I know of is the one on the doors.

 

I know that global open/close can be problematic
Read through info below and see if there is anything you can try

https://www.google.com/search?q=jagu...hrome&ie=UTF-8

 

30 seconds touching together is recommended