I couldn't find much info about this task on the net, and had to rely on a few clues from a couple of forum members and my own wrenching ability to get it done. A failed first attempt left me backed into a corner with the car being a few quarts low, no access to a lift and the possibility of having it towed to a shop to complete the work.

A local indie shop wanted around $1200 and Lord knows what Jaguar would have gotten me for. Let me just say I was making this job more difficult than it really is. File this under the "had I known" category, and I'll share what I learned for future shade tree types:

1 - Hampton Jaguar had the best pricing for the lines.

2 - I started with 4 ramps, then elevated the front on up with some 6-ton 24" lift jack stands. The back wheels remained on the ramps to keep the angle from being too extreme. A lift would have been much better, but this was sturdy and provided just enough room.

3 - Take photos or a video of the new lines, noting where the 3 plastic clamp/ties are and their orientation. Sort out how the lines go on your car to determine which line is on top, and scribe a "T" on its plugin fitting. It is possible to swap these.

4 - Remove all the clamps to separate the lines, it will be practically impossible to snake them through as a pair and they are easy to rejoin and clamp once on the car.

5 - Invite a buddy over. It went much easier with one of us on each end of the line to feed it through. Do the top one first, then the bottom. Leave the lines loose until they are both in place on the car, then connect the ends.

6 - Don't fear the steering rack. I read a few comments about "dropping" the steering rack and got the impression it was some major ordeal. It is held on by 3 bolts and once those are pulled it stays on the car but simply drops down about 3-4" and out of the way. Took all of 3 minutes to do and made all the difference...it's tight in there. No adjustments are disturbed, and the rack simply bolts back up when done.

7 - The lines go in from rear to front. Take your time, flex the aluminum SLIGHTLY when you have to and take care of the crimped joints. Technically they do rotate but this is where the leaks eventually form. Why speed the process.

8 - Hook the rear plug-ins up first, then the front. Last, put the clamps back on.

The dealer says they are beginning to stock quite a few of these lines as more and more Jags are affected. They are a poor design and I think the market is wide open for someone to develop some fully flexible, stainless braided pressure hoses that would have 4 fewer joints/couplings.

I want to thank a couple of forum members for their help via PM/email and hopefully I am paying it forward for someone else to tackle this project.



Merry Christmas to you all.

 

Good advice! I was told my trans cooler lines had started to leak, but upon inspection found no signs of oil leaking anywhere.

So you pull them out and install them from the front of the car? Under the radiator or above?

 

Underneath the car. To remove they are disconnected from the car and each other (3 plastic block clamps). They are pulled out towards the rear of the car. A helper will be a plus because they have to be pushed down in the radiator area while someone is pulling from the other end.

Installation is reverse, from the rear TO the front.

HTH.

 

In June I had my Jag in to the dealer for final warranty work which they performed nicely, almost 4k with a cost to me of $36 but said my trans lines were leaking and they were not covered, est $1200. I then took it to my local garage that does my oil changes and they told me the lines were bone dry.


Since I plan to keep this car for some time I know there is a good chance they will leak in the future so this is great information to know, thanks

 

Glad to offer something to these boards, I've gotten so much help here just from questions others have asked.

Just in case your local shop missed something, the place where the lines leak is not back by the transmission, or at the radiator connections. Up towards the front of the lines there are 2 short rubber flex hoses. The crimp joints between the rubber and aluminum lines are the culprits and there are 4 all bunched together. These are hidden behind the drip pan.

If your shop didn't remove the front skid/drip covers they missed the potential leaks. I'd suggest pulling the front cover down and seeing for yourself if the rubber lines are in fact dry. The drip pan has a large foam pad and actually works against us by hiding various small leaks up front.

 

SaturnV, I want to thank you again. It's going back in for an oil change so I will have them check it again.