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Also,some people in the forum suggest to replace the knock sensors now, as well, because to reach them in case of failure means to do a lot of the work that you have done now.
Seconded. Strongly.
The valley can get wet, and stay wet - out of sight - for quite some time if there had ever been a coolant leak or a careless washing & drying of the motor. Degraded connection can follow.
On the NA engine, access can be had in reasonably short order.
SC engine? "Rumour has it, that might require more time and effort?"
Hi, Thomas, & thanks for the posts. Your knowledge on how to do this is inestimable and your willingness to share it has made it possible for me to think that I may eventually be able to complete this task. If there is such a thing as good Karma, you have lots! If I can ever reciprocate your kindness please let me know post haste!
For my next step, I have planned to wash all of the metal parts in gasoline (very carefully) and to take all of the many plastic parts outside for a thorough cleaning. & put my implements of destruction back in some semblance of order. I have been regularly hitting that big hex fill plug with penetrating oil since I have read that it has been known to break. Thomas, I chuckled when you sent the pictures from your teardown. The only one I've ever seen that is worse & more daunting is the one I have generated!!
You may have missed it, but when I couldn’t remove one of the long bolts holding the EGR, I followed Xalty’s procedure of taking the elbow out with the EGR attached. Once I realized that the big plastic plug cover could be moved enough out of the way by loosening a screw on one side and once I removed the pipe bolts on the other, it was relatively easy. I would recommend Xalty’s method for consideration in the future.
The two remaining things I would like to accomplish before commencing the rebuild:
1. Separate the MAP sensor from the plug (BTW: MAP sensor looks kind of raunchy; I will replace it.). The lever that is supposed to be the release is easily photographed by itself since it slides in & out of its groove & that along with the picture of the plug attached to the MAP sensor should be enough for another post on the Technical Forum to bring a solution; in the interim I’m spraying it regularly with a lubricant.
2. I am about halfway through drilling for a bolt extractor on the long bolt I was not able to remove. Needless to say, since I haven’t done this before, or any of this stuff for that matter, I will be concerned until it is accomplished. My biggest concern is that the bolt breaks. I will endeavor to stop before breaking & continue to hit with penetrating oil.
I plan to replace all of what you mentioned including the valve cover gaskets. I replaced a coil last year and was surprised to find that the old one had oil on it. Needless to say, I have a lot of research to do before getting started. While I have downloaded in pdf format the shop manuals, they remain pretty useless to me. At some point I will likely start another thread on Manuals after I have exhausted what I can find on the Forums.
& thank you, Bill, for your pithy, cheeky, sanctimonious and irreverent banter! It adds a wonderfully poetic dimension to the travail! Sort of like a soothing spice to the sharp engine spaghetti! If only your Cat was equipped with a blower (See, I’m learning; previously, I had no idea! I thought all blowers were in a band as in beaters and blowers!). Who knew?
For my next step, I have planned to wash all of the metal parts in gasoline (very carefully)
Please don't... EVER.. use gasoline to wash ANYTHING. It is not only TOXIC, it is more explosive per unit of weight than dynamite or TNT. Gasoline vapours can EASILY wander clear across even an open space to find an ignition source as unexpected as a static spark or a common electrical switch.
Then you have a "fuel-air munition". See "MOAB" for the general class of those pee-bringers.
Recent one was Propane, not gasoline, but they are similar:
... others use ignorant kerosene ('Water White" sold as "odorless" lamp oil) or common #2 Diesel fuel.
AND NOT "Brake-Kleen". Nasty stuff, if ever was.
I can NO LONGER ...be bothered with the STINK of any of those volatiles.
I use hog-bristle "chip brushes" - cheap pak from Big Box .... with Canola oil from the grocery store. Keeps Canola Oil TF out of the kitchen, where it shouldn't be, anyway.
Follow by cleaning the oily 'mud' off with abrasive free 'waterless' hand cleaner. "Chip brush" again. The cheapest plain-jane grade with no Pumice in it that wants kept in the "fridge lest it become food for bacterians. The microbes. Not the Camels.
409 or such and yer good to go.
Won't hurt paint, wiring, plastics, rubber..... nor even your skin. "Goop" hand cleaner won't burn. Won't Charlie-Fox the shop floor, nor ****-off the ladies.
If only your Cat was equipped with a blower...
My 6-71's of a bygone era had all the blower I care to be serf to, thanks.
"NA" AJ133 V8's?
Roughly 30 minutes, and I'm looking at buck-naked knock sensors. Younger man could get there and BACK in 30 minutes.
Besides...
.. the 'NA" engines respond faster from a standstill than SC does.
Low-speed "bubba-urban" combat for a fleeting opening in traffic is just about all I ever see, these crowded-road dayz.
I'm good wit' dat'. Very!
Cat has shat and scooted so smartly I don' even have to worry about the litter box.
If I don't count the plug still in the Map Sensor, teardown is done. I will pursue the plug later.
Now for the inventory, organizing a million photos, etc.
Bill, the secret is as small a plastic container as you can get by with and using cloth towels only & then, you get the cleanest parts in town! Also, gloves & plenty of vent - I use the out of doors!
Well, I will now be studying all I can find on the reassembly. I wonder if I should do a separate thread on the assembly? This one seems to be getting a bit long.
If I don't count the plug still in the Map Sensor, teardown is done. I will pursue the plug later.
Now for the inventory, organizing a million photos, etc.
Bill, the secret is as small a plastic container as you can get by with and using cloth towels only & then, you get the cleanest parts in town!
Rice cooker housing started to rust a new one in Stainless graced our kitchen. The old one cleans parts with near-zero labour. Low-cost Harbor-Freight parts washer has a fire-stop lid, works even better.
Well, I will now be studying all I can find on the reassembly. I wonder if I should do a separate thread on the assembly? This one seems to be getting a bit long.
I'd vote for that. It helps when a person who has to work harder at it details the process.
"Experts" usually skip right over 2/3'ds of the details on the assumption that everyone already knows how to deal with replacing the hairspring in a left-handed turbo-encabulator's liquid Oxygen feed.
Now for a little celebratory dancin:
Youngsters! No sense of romance!
I thought this was your FIRST supercharger? "First" is always 'special'.
Quote
Hi, Thomas, & thanks for the posts. Your knowledge on how to do this is inestimable and your willingness to share it has made it possible for me to think that I may eventually be able to complete this task. If there is such a thing as good Karma, you have lots! If I can ever reciprocate your kindness please let me know post haste!
Unquote
Hi Steve, sorry for the late reply, it is a period for me with quite a few business trips that make it difficult to follow the forum regularly...
And thank you very much for the kudos, you are very welcome
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For my next step, I have planned to wash all of the metal parts in gasoline (very carefully) and to take all of the many plastic parts outside for a thorough cleaning. & put my implements of destruction back in some semblance of order. I have been regularly hitting that big hex fill plug with penetrating oil since I have read that it has been known to break. Thomas, I chuckled when you sent the pictures from your teardown. The only one I've ever seen that is worse & more daunting is the one I have generated!!
Unquote
Well,yes, that table got a bit full, in the end... but at least I knew where to find all the parts...
As I have more that one car and do all the work myself, I invested in this parts washer to clean parts:
It is a small one, but works fine. For bigger parts, I use a plastic tray. And I, too,never use gasoline!
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You may have missed it, but when I couldn’t remove one of the long bolts holding the EGR, I followed Xalty’s procedure of taking the elbow out with the EGR attached. Once I realized that the big plastic plug cover could be moved enough out of the way by loosening a screw on one side and once I removed the pipe bolts on the other, it was relatively easy. I would recommend Xalty’s method for consideration in the future.
Unquote
It's the same way that I removed the EGR, complete with the elbow. It seems to be the only way and I am sorry that it was not clear from my explanations, and I had not taken suitable pictures at the time.
Quote
The two remaining things I would like to accomplish before commencing the rebuild:
1. Separate the MAP sensor from the plug (BTW: MAP sensor looks kind of raunchy; I will replace it.). The lever that is supposed to be the release is easily photographed by itself since it slides in & out of its groove & that along with the picture of the plug attached to the MAP sensor should be enough for another post on the Technical Forum to bring a solution; in the interim I’m spraying it regularly with a lubricant.
2. I am about halfway through drilling for a bolt extractor on the long bolt I was not able to remove. Needless to say, since I haven’t done this before, or any of this stuff for that matter, I will be concerned until it is accomplished. My biggest concern is that the bolt breaks. I will endeavor to stop before breaking & continue to hit with penetrating oil.
Unquote
I know the feeling, removing bolts that have either a round had or have snapped is a nightmare. The major concern here for me is not that the bolt breaks, but the bolt extractor, which can happen.
I wish you luck!
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I plan to replace all of what you mentioned including the valve cover gaskets. I replaced a coil last year and was surprised to find that the old one had oil on it. Needless to say, I have a lot of research to do before getting started. While I have downloaded in pdf format the shop manuals, they remain pretty useless to me. At some point I will likely start another thread on Manuals after I have exhausted what I can find on the Forums.
Unquote
Pray your business trips are enjoyable and successful. Considering your schedule, I have all the more gratitude for you for applying your exquisite teaching skills to help me!
Dang! That is a cool parts washer! I read that the supercharger, I assume the blades, have a coating that should be left alone and not cleaned. I can't imagine that the blades on my SC could be any newer looking. The snout and front are on the grungy side; so, I will clean the outside metal parts. The oil is an easy change - Just remove the plug with a 3/16" Allen wrench...
Your pictures were fine &, had one bolt not been frozen, it would have been easier to remove, even doing it the hard way. I think I learned again that if something seems unreasonably difficult, there is another way that is less difficult. Once the elbow was removed, at each step of trying to remove said bolt, I would whack the circumference with a chisel & ball peen and apply more penetrant. The bolt gave in after I had failed with various extractors and was in the process of grinding the head off. While this part of the process, the EGR removal, was by far the most challenging, it was also most rewarding since I had never done any of this and had never extracted a stubborn bolt.
I have a scheme for replacing the insulation on that dinky little plastic bulkhead. I'm amazed at how big it looked when I first started to remove it! I will share this scheme on another thread for correction.
Carpe diem,
Steve S.
P.S. Who could have ever considered this picture a beautiful thing?
Yes, the supercharger blades should be left alone if they look nice and black. If they are not like that, there are companies that are specialized in re-coating the blades. I, too, only cleaned the outside and made and oil change as my blades look prefect and were rotating freely. Be aware that when you do the SC oil change the smell will be awful!
And yes, the successful removal of the EGR is one of the most rewarding moments of the job, the other one is the one in the attached video /I hope that it will play...)
The picture looks very familiar, and it is beautiful, because it means that you are on the way to succeed!
In mopping up the valley, there was several tablespoons of a bright orange oil. Not engine oil and not SC oil (No Stink). What could it be?
What colour is the coolant it has been using?
5.0 AJ133, the Front pipes leak into the valley, leaves 'evidence'
Rear plastic manifold leaks down the back across the bellhousing, scatters the evidence.
Front has maybe half the life of the rear, but may have been replaced one or more times, already, as the rear is harder to get to.
Both are "maintenance" items, not warranty. Any time you have the SC off is a good time to renew them, as they are easier to reach while it is out of the way.
NA motors, it is "possiblle" to swap both without pulling the intake, but it is easier to go ahead and aside it. Not much to that compared to the SC models.
4.2 is not the same. look for the thermostat & hoses having leaked coolant into the valley.
Any where plastics are used, we have a cross-breed between sharp-penciled bean-counters and the Devil.
In general, plastic goods tend to fail at flange, spigot/nipple, and/or O rings where they meet metal, even if the body looks fine.
Differential cooeficient of thermal expansion is a sore patient Mike Foxtrot, tends to get its pound of flesh in the fillnesss of time, regardless.
04-27-2024, 03:36 PM
