This is a well documented fix. I am giving my experience with it to help others. Do this at your own risk.

The lines do not need to be removed to do this fix, just cut with a dremel cutting disc with the lines on the car.

Here is what you will need:
1. About 1 foot of this hose
Transmission Cooler Line Hose 1/2 ID x 10 Foot Roll Automatic Trans High Temp HD - I got 10 feet way too much!
2. 16-18mm fuel line clamp was too tight to be honest, but I made it work.
3. Dremel type tool with a stone cut off wheel
4. Safety glasses because working eyes are great

1. Take the air box out
2. Remove the radiator hose out on the air box side I just unclipped it and caught the coolant with a container (most of it) it was about a gallon that came out. I saved it to reuse it as it looked ok after the system is emptyish, just bend it over on itself so it's pointing towards the intake manifold and out of the way.
3. Pre-cut your hydraulic hose to the length you need. Put fuel line clamp around hose at it's loosest setting
4. Now use your dremel and a stone cut off wheel to cut right after the rubber hose on the cooler line meets the aluminum part (there are 2 hoses a feed and return) do not cut anything else you don't want to cut obviously, fingers other car parts etc. wear safety glasses. You will need to cut out the hose as this is what leaks, so above and below. I made 1 cut at a time to limit fluid loss. After the cut is made and old hydraulic hose is removed, install but do not clamp down the new hose to prevent fluid loss. The argument could be made aluminum shavings can get into your transmission with doing this on the car - to be honest the fluid rushing out when you cut it limits this and I didn't really care. Fluid loss is maybe 1/4 of a quart out of this whole process not bad the hose should stop losing fluid after a short period.
5. After you've made the cuts, wrestle the clamps on and make them tight. I used fuel injection hose clamps as they give the best equal pressure.
6. Once done, refill car with coolant, bleed that system check for leaks on cooling system as well as transmission lines. I didn't even add transmission fluid, I recently serviced the transmission and fluid was a little over full.

This job can be done for under 40 bucks. Enjoy your leak free transmission lines. I found the process straightforward and easy and much better than spending 200 on a new line set that will only fail in the future at the same spot.

 

I like it!!!!

 

Thanks man! I did this fix along with the auxiliary water pump at the same time as the coolant system was empty.

 

Ooo my this is like a gift from the Jaguar Gods... I've been researching how to hack this fix and now it just dropped on to my lap.

Thanks for the share

 

So it's basically just replacing the rubber hose correct? did you cut the crimp as well??

 

I cut the aluminum crimp that was attached the rubber hose, so per line you make only 2 cuts to take that section of crimped hose out and rubber hose out.

you could run the hydraulic hose however long you want, from the radiator cooling outlet/inlet to the outlet/inlet on the transmission as well. I kept it shorter for simplicity.

Be sure not to bend the hose aluminum or break it when sliding on the hydraulic hose, you will see what I mean if you do it.

Let me know if this makes sense if not I'll try to get you a picture from under the car.

 

It would be nice to see a pic, so I know what to expect

Thank you so much

 

If you look here, this is about what our cooler lines look like.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...BoCXqoQAvD_BwE

You are cutting before and after the rubber hose portion. So that the hydraulic hose will fit over the length of aluminum pipe that is left.

You are cutting out the crimped larger part of aluminum as well.

Also the o rings to the radiator and transmission for these lines can leak, I got those from the dealer, they stock them, mine are not leaking. I did not remove the transmission lines to perform this 'fix' because I didnt want to deal with creating leaks that were not already there that's why I did this work with it on the car.

If you don't feel confident about performing this, I would not. Perform this at your own risk.

 

$40 for a set of Dorman lines.
Seems to be a good price
Making replacement, over repair, a harder choice.
Have never priced them from the dealer, i could be wrong.

 

I believe there is a communication break down. I used that image as a reference picture to what needs to be cut. Those lines will not work on a xj8. They look similar though.

 

This is really helpful ...I didn't know you're cutting thru aluminum pipe ... I guess that's easier than cutting the crimp...thank you so much....did you put any sealant on the hose to prevent leaks?

 

You could flair the end, to make a better connection.
Sure read the post with the Dorman parts wrong

 

I just cut the pipes put on the new hose and used fuel injection clamps to equally clamp the hose to the aluminum pipe - it's tight so no leaks.

 

Couple of adds to this fix. I took a dremel and cut off the factory hose crimps. Above is the finished product of what the hard pipe looks like. If one is careful they can achieve a pretty nick-less result.

I attached the new 1/2" transmission line using two clamps on each connection. 1/2" hose is the right size as it fits good and snug and has enough give to go over the lip. On the inside (towards nipple end) I used a properly sized Oetiker clamp and on the other side a worm screw clamp which had the inside clamping tongue to prevent cutting and get even pressure. I was originally going to bubble flare the end, but saw some pictures on line of what the uncut pipe looked like - the added lip, with the clamps, will prevent the clamp and hose from slipping. No leaks so far.

One has to take off the coolant hose to the radiator - no comfortable way to access the fitting otherwise. I tired, as I hate coolant, but in the end I followed the OP advice. I had to cut one of the pipe crimps from below as I could not do it from above. It most likely would have been easiest to cut the uppers from above and the lowers from below. Not much fluid comes out. I used "used" latex gloves to close off any opening from debris. Cutting is pretty easy and one can cut deep into the hose, but not too deep where you hit metal. On the lip I scored the original crimp metal and it tore along the edge - got good at this after the first two hoses. I used a sharp knife to cut the hose to get it to release - it is tough stuff. Getting the Oetiker clamps pinched is a mixture of above and below, and was a challenge but it can be done. I cleaned up any nicks and burrs with some fine sandpaper. One last item - put the clamps on before the hose or on the hose as it makes it easier.

 

Oetiker clamps are a great way to clamp lines, but if room makes their use an issue.

Those Jaguar spring clamps might work out better.

Do like clamping past the ridge

 

hi!
any updates please on how does the exterior of the hose look like after all this time?
i have trust issues due to hoses exterior cracking on me
thanks

 

This post hopefully saved me quite a few dollars. We've had a leaking transmission line for quite a while, mostly in the colder months it seems. I was finally going to bite the bullet and check the cost on buying new lines and the difficulty of installing, etc. I ran across this post and figured it was worth a shot. I only did 1 for now because it's the only one that seems to be leaking but we shall see how it goes. Thanks to all who contributed to this thread!

 

Nice work .

 

How did you get the oem couplings off?
thanks

 

Dremmel flex shaft rotary attechment, with a cutting disk.
Almost like the one the dentist uses, but with a shorter shaft.