Transmission Mount Replacement
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 544
From: Spring, TX
Transmission Mount Replacement
Has anyone replaced their transmission mount? I'm assuming it's pretty simple: jack up transmission, unbolt old mount, bolt in new mount, done. Right?
Popular Reply
Oct 15, 2015, 01:13 PM
Thread Starter
Veteran Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 544
From: Spring, TX
Well, I finally got round to replacing the transmission mount and WOW! WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The car is brand new again. No more vibrations or shaking or rough noises. Acceleration is smooth and wonderful again. At idle, you can barely feel the engine, even with the AC on. The old one was completely wrecked. The rubber inside was torn and destroyed.
Symptoms:
-vibrations at idle
-vibrations at initial acceleration which would disappear until around 30 mph and then again just before 70mph
-loud hum like the inside of a jet
-loud whirring noise upon acceleration
-occasional slight bump sensation when decelerating
-when nose down on a steep incline, like a hill or driveway, engine would sometimes get super quiet and all vibrations would stop. I used to think the engine was about to stall, but now I realize that at those moments, the engine/transmission would sort of rock back into its proper position, and then when the car righted itself again, the engine/transmission would go back to its broken-mount incorrect position, whereupon the vibrations and noise would return.
Now all those symptoms have disappeared completely. Incredible.
Thanks to Don's advice, I was able to track down the correct part. #2 in the diagram above. It's listed in the EPC as an engine/gearbox mount under the engine section, NOT the transmission section. The part number listed has been superseded by C2D38505, which is also used on the current XJs. When comparing the two, its plain to see that the new part has been upgraded, especially in the center rubber component. This is the link off ebay:
Jaguar 11 14 XJ Engine Torque Strut Mount C2D38505 | eBay
Here are the steps to replacing the mount:
1. I drove the front up on ramps and jacked up the rear on jack stands. There's still not a lot of room underneath to work, but it's enough.
2. I used the jack and a block of wood the same length as the width of the gearbox fluid pan to support the transmission.
3. If you look at the diagram Don posted above, you'll see the #5 bolt that holds the entire assembly to the chassis. There's two bolts on either side. They are 13mm.
4. Undo the #4 bolts that hold the mount to the transmission itself. These are also 13mm. (be careful: the entire assembly will fall away from the car and is heavy)
5. Undo the #3 bolts that hold the mount to the assembly. They are also 13mm.
6. Bolt on the new mount to the assembly. I used blue loctite on all the bolts.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. The new rubber mount will be a bit stiff, so you may have to finagle things around to get the bolt holes to line up. I just jacked the transmission up a bit more and worked it all out.
8. You're done! Enjoy the silky smoothness.
Symptoms:
-vibrations at idle
-vibrations at initial acceleration which would disappear until around 30 mph and then again just before 70mph
-loud hum like the inside of a jet
-loud whirring noise upon acceleration
-occasional slight bump sensation when decelerating
-when nose down on a steep incline, like a hill or driveway, engine would sometimes get super quiet and all vibrations would stop. I used to think the engine was about to stall, but now I realize that at those moments, the engine/transmission would sort of rock back into its proper position, and then when the car righted itself again, the engine/transmission would go back to its broken-mount incorrect position, whereupon the vibrations and noise would return.
Now all those symptoms have disappeared completely. Incredible.
Thanks to Don's advice, I was able to track down the correct part. #2 in the diagram above. It's listed in the EPC as an engine/gearbox mount under the engine section, NOT the transmission section. The part number listed has been superseded by C2D38505, which is also used on the current XJs. When comparing the two, its plain to see that the new part has been upgraded, especially in the center rubber component. This is the link off ebay:
Jaguar 11 14 XJ Engine Torque Strut Mount C2D38505 | eBay
Here are the steps to replacing the mount:
1. I drove the front up on ramps and jacked up the rear on jack stands. There's still not a lot of room underneath to work, but it's enough.
2. I used the jack and a block of wood the same length as the width of the gearbox fluid pan to support the transmission.
3. If you look at the diagram Don posted above, you'll see the #5 bolt that holds the entire assembly to the chassis. There's two bolts on either side. They are 13mm.
4. Undo the #4 bolts that hold the mount to the transmission itself. These are also 13mm. (be careful: the entire assembly will fall away from the car and is heavy)
5. Undo the #3 bolts that hold the mount to the assembly. They are also 13mm.
6. Bolt on the new mount to the assembly. I used blue loctite on all the bolts.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. The new rubber mount will be a bit stiff, so you may have to finagle things around to get the bolt holes to line up. I just jacked the transmission up a bit more and worked it all out.
8. You're done! Enjoy the silky smoothness.
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 20,512
Likes: 15,284
From: Crossroads of America
Cheers,
Don
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 544
From: Spring, TX
Well, I finally got round to replacing the transmission mount and WOW! WHAT A DIFFERENCE! The car is brand new again. No more vibrations or shaking or rough noises. Acceleration is smooth and wonderful again. At idle, you can barely feel the engine, even with the AC on. The old one was completely wrecked. The rubber inside was torn and destroyed.
Symptoms:
-vibrations at idle
-vibrations at initial acceleration which would disappear until around 30 mph and then again just before 70mph
-loud hum like the inside of a jet
-loud whirring noise upon acceleration
-occasional slight bump sensation when decelerating
-when nose down on a steep incline, like a hill or driveway, engine would sometimes get super quiet and all vibrations would stop. I used to think the engine was about to stall, but now I realize that at those moments, the engine/transmission would sort of rock back into its proper position, and then when the car righted itself again, the engine/transmission would go back to its broken-mount incorrect position, whereupon the vibrations and noise would return.
Now all those symptoms have disappeared completely. Incredible.
Thanks to Don's advice, I was able to track down the correct part. #2 in the diagram above. It's listed in the EPC as an engine/gearbox mount under the engine section, NOT the transmission section. The part number listed has been superseded by C2D38505, which is also used on the current XJs. When comparing the two, its plain to see that the new part has been upgraded, especially in the center rubber component. This is the link off ebay:
Jaguar 11 14 XJ Engine Torque Strut Mount C2D38505 | eBay
Here are the steps to replacing the mount:
1. I drove the front up on ramps and jacked up the rear on jack stands. There's still not a lot of room underneath to work, but it's enough.
2. I used the jack and a block of wood the same length as the width of the gearbox fluid pan to support the transmission.
3. If you look at the diagram Don posted above, you'll see the #5 bolt that holds the entire assembly to the chassis. There's two bolts on either side. They are 13mm.
4. Undo the #4 bolts that hold the mount to the transmission itself. These are also 13mm. (be careful: the entire assembly will fall away from the car and is heavy)
5. Undo the #3 bolts that hold the mount to the assembly. They are also 13mm.
6. Bolt on the new mount to the assembly. I used blue loctite on all the bolts.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. The new rubber mount will be a bit stiff, so you may have to finagle things around to get the bolt holes to line up. I just jacked the transmission up a bit more and worked it all out.
8. You're done! Enjoy the silky smoothness.
Attachment 153508
Attachment 153509
Attachment 153510
Symptoms:
-vibrations at idle
-vibrations at initial acceleration which would disappear until around 30 mph and then again just before 70mph
-loud hum like the inside of a jet
-loud whirring noise upon acceleration
-occasional slight bump sensation when decelerating
-when nose down on a steep incline, like a hill or driveway, engine would sometimes get super quiet and all vibrations would stop. I used to think the engine was about to stall, but now I realize that at those moments, the engine/transmission would sort of rock back into its proper position, and then when the car righted itself again, the engine/transmission would go back to its broken-mount incorrect position, whereupon the vibrations and noise would return.
Now all those symptoms have disappeared completely. Incredible.
Thanks to Don's advice, I was able to track down the correct part. #2 in the diagram above. It's listed in the EPC as an engine/gearbox mount under the engine section, NOT the transmission section. The part number listed has been superseded by C2D38505, which is also used on the current XJs. When comparing the two, its plain to see that the new part has been upgraded, especially in the center rubber component. This is the link off ebay:
Jaguar 11 14 XJ Engine Torque Strut Mount C2D38505 | eBay
Here are the steps to replacing the mount:
1. I drove the front up on ramps and jacked up the rear on jack stands. There's still not a lot of room underneath to work, but it's enough.
2. I used the jack and a block of wood the same length as the width of the gearbox fluid pan to support the transmission.
3. If you look at the diagram Don posted above, you'll see the #5 bolt that holds the entire assembly to the chassis. There's two bolts on either side. They are 13mm.
4. Undo the #4 bolts that hold the mount to the transmission itself. These are also 13mm. (be careful: the entire assembly will fall away from the car and is heavy)
5. Undo the #3 bolts that hold the mount to the assembly. They are also 13mm.
6. Bolt on the new mount to the assembly. I used blue loctite on all the bolts.
7. Installation is the reverse of removal. The new rubber mount will be a bit stiff, so you may have to finagle things around to get the bolt holes to line up. I just jacked the transmission up a bit more and worked it all out.
8. You're done! Enjoy the silky smoothness.
Attachment 153508
Attachment 153509
Attachment 153510
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 544
From: Spring, TX
If its in really bad shape, maybe. You might be able to see torn rubber or perhaps even be able to jiggle it a little, but I'm not sure. I don't recall being able to tell until I actually took it off and compared it to the new part.
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 544
From: Spring, TX
Heads up: it looks like there are some aftermarket options available now.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Supe...53.m1438.l2649
If I recall correctly, I paid around $175 for the OEM part, so there's nearly a $50 savings with the aftermarket. This mount will fit the X351 and probably the X250 and F-Type.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-Supe...53.m1438.l2649
If I recall correctly, I paid around $175 for the OEM part, so there's nearly a $50 savings with the aftermarket. This mount will fit the X351 and probably the X250 and F-Type.
Thread Starter
|
Veteran Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,328
Likes: 544
From: Spring, TX
Actually just found it a bit cheaper:
Jaguar EUROSPARE Engine Mount C2D38505
I've gone ahead and ordered this and will install in my X351.
Jaguar EUROSPARE Engine Mount C2D38505
I've gone ahead and ordered this and will install in my X351.
Last edited by XJ8JR; Mar 6, 2018 at 12:13 PM.
Trending Topics
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 994
Likes: 709
From: CT, USA
Great write up, thanks.
The dealer told me he was able to confirm a bad mount by using a pry bar to force the bracket down. Anything more than a little bit of play indicates a bad mount.
I'll be tackling this job soon also.
The dealer told me he was able to confirm a bad mount by using a pry bar to force the bracket down. Anything more than a little bit of play indicates a bad mount.
I'll be tackling this job soon also.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 679
Likes: 150
From: California, USA
Actually just found it a bit cheaper:
Jaguar EUROSPARE Engine Mount C2D38505
I've gone ahead and ordered this and will install in my X351.
Jaguar EUROSPARE Engine Mount C2D38505
I've gone ahead and ordered this and will install in my X351.
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 259
From: Houston
I hunk mine myay be going. Noticed the vibration between 40 - 60 mph. Also hear a clunk.sometimes. Also planning on looking at suspension at upcoming oil change.
I will pass on the DP mount. But the Eurospare could be close to OEM at a 40% saving. Has anyone used the Eurospare part? I guess 200.00 for the factory part will not kill me.
I will pass on the DP mount. But the Eurospare could be close to OEM at a 40% saving. Has anyone used the Eurospare part? I guess 200.00 for the factory part will not kill me.
Veteran Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1,008
Likes: 259
From: Houston
I will ask Don or another expert. There are plenty of replacement parts that are as good or better than the OEM. But there is some pure junk also. I am concerned the Eurospare and DP are the same parts rebranded.
The OEM on some high end European cars. The rubber bushings on Jaguars, the 60,000 mile brake rotors on my A8, the ABS controller on our BMW all fail at unacceptable frequency. But most is solid.
The OEM on some high end European cars. The rubber bushings on Jaguars, the 60,000 mile brake rotors on my A8, the ABS controller on our BMW all fail at unacceptable frequency. But most is solid.
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 20,512
Likes: 15,284
From: Crossroads of America
I don't have any experience with the Eurospares parts. The original X350 suspension bushings were made by Lemförder (Lemfoerder), and it seems highly likely that they also made the engine mounts and transmission mount, so if you can find Lemförder parts those would be my first choice. I have had mixed results with products from Üro Parts, but there are some parts for which they seem to be the only current source.
Cheers,
Don
Cheers,
Don
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 679
Likes: 150
From: California, USA
I have a 2010 XJ (X351) with 89k miles on it. The trans mount will be replaced this Tuesday. The shifting has recently been feeling a bit more exaggerated, I also sometimes hear a clunk when I shift into park. The tranny fluid and filter have already been replaced ~7k miles ago. My engine mounts were completely falling apart when I changed them 3K miles ago. So I think it’s time to switch the transmission mounts out too.
I know my car isn’t identical to yours but as we use the same transmission mount, perhaps it will be helpful.
All the best.
I know my car isn’t identical to yours but as we use the same transmission mount, perhaps it will be helpful.
All the best.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 679
Likes: 150
From: California, USA
I don’t mind engine mounts going out after 9 years. The main point is that they seem easy to check and that they may reflect the condition of the transmission mounts as well.
I don’t know if the car was abused by the previous owner, but I’m sure it prefers the treatment it gets now. I’ve replaced almost every fluid and wear and tear item on the car over my past year of ownership. This has come at a tremendous cost, but at least I know what has been done to it. Hopefully the car will reward me with years of trouble-free enjoyment.
All the best.
I don’t know if the car was abused by the previous owner, but I’m sure it prefers the treatment it gets now. I’ve replaced almost every fluid and wear and tear item on the car over my past year of ownership. This has come at a tremendous cost, but at least I know what has been done to it. Hopefully the car will reward me with years of trouble-free enjoyment.
All the best.
Veteran Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 3,481
Likes: 879
From: Stow Ohio
As long as the transmission fluid had no burned smell, or metal on the magnets, & shifts well, life is good.
The XJ8's naturally asperated, just lack that extra hundred horse power, and torque.
As well as all the pedal to the metal, to hear, & feel the S C kick in miles.
Hoping that, the base XJ8's, will last me longer, as they should not have been driven near as hard.
The XJ8's naturally asperated, just lack that extra hundred horse power, and torque.
As well as all the pedal to the metal, to hear, & feel the S C kick in miles.
Hoping that, the base XJ8's, will last me longer, as they should not have been driven near as hard.