Ouch! That certainly is possible. I and others replace the bushings without the formal engine lift method. Passenger side (US) is much easier than driver side. Pass side you can loosen both bolts on the clamp and remove ONLY ONE and slide in a new bushing. Ther is some space to get socket/wrench in there but tight

Drive side is much more difficult. Some people remove the intake air box to get better access. I could not figure a way to loosen/tighten bolts from the underside so did from the top with lots of socket extensions and wobble head sockets.

But I fear if you have broken a bolt on one of the main clamps you MAY be in a real tough spot. Getting a broken bolt head out and maybe tapping hole I would expect to be close to impossible

But you may have just broken/loosened the sway bar links at the end? Have you been able to get on safe stands, pull wheels and investigate up close? I meant to add these pix last post. GOOD LUCK!!

Item 8 is the front sway bar and you can see the clamps and bushes on main bar.. item 3 is the sway bar end link

 

This thread is brilliant, I though that it is impossible to change sway bar bushings without removing the subframe. I changed the bushings this way last week, lots of work but it is only way. It is realy helpful to remove air inlet+box, main coolant tube, unscrew gearbox oil pipes from the cooler but basically unscrew the crossbar from the frame support - without that it is not possible to unscrew the sway bar clamps. I didn't have much time to implement a change related to the stabilizer mounting, but I will come back to that in some time: to make it not so difficult, nuts should be welded to the top of clamps, the threads in the subframe should be enlarged, the stabilizer will then be screwed from the bottom through the holes in the subframe. It would take half an hour to change bushings, end of story.

 

Thank you and happy thanksgiven!, yeah I got it secured under car jacks in the front, and I got both tires off and I did take the air intake box off which it discouraged me when I took it off, because lot uh things are crowded in there and I could not see anything, I'm hoping tomorrow to take the inner plastic fender out, also I alrady took the sawy bar link out. too.

 

Yes... The choices in life are pay ALOT of $$ to have it fixed... Or... Try things yourself and curse and be sad.. until you fix it! A great feeling once that happens 😁

 

true!

 

Hi, I do apoplogise for not replying sooner, the stabiliser bar from what i can see was fine, even though some bars with ball joints need to be changed upper and lower, what i did for now is I ordered 2 front Arnott struts AS-2890 and installed them, i would like to describe what had hapened so far, i had the car jacked in the front and had it on 2 car jacks,
1- I installed ther passenger side air strut and took the tension of the jack stand by a floor jack under where the bottom suspension arms towards the front, took the jack stand off and lowered the car jack and the car was sitting on the passenger tire and it was a normal clearence between the fender and the tire.
2- I repeated the same thing for the driver side, but as soon as I was lowering the car jack , the whole car was sitting on the floor jack and the fender was right over the tire, so I looked at the passenger side I had seen the fender was down over the tire also, so I harried up and started the car , then after 3 o 4 minutes the car was up.
3- the next day I checked on the car, now I live in ohio and the car is inside an unheated garage, the car was down about 1/2 inche on both side, what I did Is I unhooked the battery and left.
4- 3 days later which is today I checked on it and it was way down on both sides, so I hooked the battery back up and started it till it got raised, then I shutt it off and left the battery hooked.
5- Im gonna leave it till monday which 3 or 4 days and check on it., any idea please let me know and is that normal so far, but why the rear struts never go down, thank you!

 

Could be the solenoid valve in the trunk,.
Under the spare tire