1995 Vanden Plas No Crank No Start.... HELP!
#1
1995 Vanden Plas No Crank No Start.... HELP!
A few weeks ago I had a blowout on my front right tire. The tire shredded and in the process it took out the inner plastic fender shield and pulled down the wiring harness. The only two wires that I see that are broken is a white w/yellow wire and a brown w/purple wire. But now the car won't crank or start. It seemed to have stalled out when this incident happened as I was pulling off to the side of the road. All electrical works as normal in the car except for the right side front and rear parking lights which I believe is the white w/yellow wire. I'm pretty sure the brown w/purple is an injector wire. When the key is turned on all the dash lights come on as normal and no cranking. The park light is light up red and I've also tried starting it in neutral with no results. I've even checked the inertia switch too. I've got power to everything as normal except a no crank,no start situation. I've even tried doing a hard reset by turning the ignition to the on position and disconnecting the battery terminals and clamping them together for about ten minutes. Could this be something to do with the security system? My alarm and door locks work as normal.What should I be looking for?
Please Help!!!
Please Help!!!
#2
Reset the inertia / crash switch as this may have tripped by pressing with your thumb the rubber bulb . They don't always reset so you can remove the connector and put a paper clip between the 2 white wires .
Does the starter relay # 4 click by putting your finger on it ? if not put a meter on the White/ Pink wire at the starter relay socket as this is supplied constant power from fuse # 12 / 10 amp RH Engine fuse box which is supplied power from ignition positive relay witch is the one in the corner of the RH Engine fuse tray . The Green / Orange wire is the control ground to close the relay .
Does the starter relay # 4 click by putting your finger on it ? if not put a meter on the White/ Pink wire at the starter relay socket as this is supplied constant power from fuse # 12 / 10 amp RH Engine fuse box which is supplied power from ignition positive relay witch is the one in the corner of the RH Engine fuse tray . The Green / Orange wire is the control ground to close the relay .
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-23-2018 at 07:35 PM.
#4
Edited above post . Keep in mind the engine ECU will act up below 11.5 volts . The relay can be hard to remove so penetrating spray helps .
The White / Yellow wire controls the ignition positive relay to close it . It goes through the inertia switch and the ignition switch to proved a ground . Environmentally protect the repair on that wire for the future
Wiring guide :
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1995.pdf
The White / Yellow wire controls the ignition positive relay to close it . It goes through the inertia switch and the ignition switch to proved a ground . Environmentally protect the repair on that wire for the future
Wiring guide :
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxj1995.pdf
Last edited by Lady Penelope; 02-23-2018 at 07:50 PM.
#5
Update : Problem Solved! I located the two broken wires. They were attached to the right front fender fuse box circuits which was keeping the car from cranking/starting. One of the wires took care of the cranking and the other took care of the right side parking lights front and rear. Thanks for the help! Glad to have my kitty back!
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aholbro1 (02-25-2018)
#6
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