I got this car after it had been sitting up for about 10 years and am trying to get it going again. What I have done so far is clean out the gas tank and replace the entire fuel system from the fuel pumps to the injectors. Has new plugs and coils. The problem I am having is that all it will do is spin over and not try to start. I pulled the plugs and verified that all are sparking lik they should. pulled a injector and it was working. I sprayed half a can of starting fluid in the intake while someone cranked it over for me and still nothing. Am I missing something? I am new to jaguars and this thing has me puzzled. I really appreciate any help I can get.

 

Pull the plugs and pour a bit of oil in the cylinders turn it through a couple of turns ( plugs back in ) to get the oil in the area of interest ( the rings ) and let it soak overnight . This helps restores your compression so it will better start with that aspect .

 

appreciate it. I will give it a shot.

 

Did you get a cylinder to fire off with the starter fluid . I heard of someone blowing their oil pan loose with too much starter fluid . urban myth ?

 

I sprayed half a can in it with someone turning it over. It never even hiccupped or made any attempt to fire.

 

Code 340 Camshaft Position Sensor fail will cause the Crankshaft Position Sensor to take over ignition timing but after a few rotations after the starter fluid has cleared out . That with a combination of corrosion in the Papa Indy 1 connector causing weak spark . Let it soak in

 

I don't have any codes showing. That's one of the things that has me puzzled. Everything is showing that it should be starting but it won't.

 

What connection is that your talking about?

 

The PI1 and PI61 connectors look the same and are together and are below the wiper fluid cap both about 15 pins each . The wire of interest for the ignition in the PI1 - 4 ( White / Pink ) and for the #1 pump PI61 - 7 ( Pink / Brown ) . It can be hard to tell the Pink / Brown so you might count pins . Clean both of them by disconnecting them several times for dry friction to clean off before spraying it down . Have you verified pump operation by pressing a finger and feel for click on the relay for #1 only ( #2 does not turn on until upper RPM's ) as you turn the key to on and not start . This prime will charge the fuel rail for 3 - 5 seconds then turn off . You can place your hand on the pump behind the boot forward liner wall at the top flange to verify pump operation if you can't hear it .

 

Appreciate it. I'll check them out in the morning. The pump is priming for about 5 seconds. Verified that by cracking the fuel line. What should the pressure be coming from the pump before the regulator?

 

43 PSI idle or engine off bumping up with throttle , after the regulator so it should be higher before the regulator . Hard to find fitting to tap in a gauge ( not an aircraft fitting and looks more like a toilet tank fitting ) ended up drilling a hole in the regulator hex nut so if I messed up it can be easily sourced Vs. the fuel rail . That would flush me out of cash . I used a peice of small tubing from the hobby store with some epoxy and a tire gauge . This was a temporary set up to give me the information I needed for the cheap gauge may not be fuel proof . Suggest check pressure after the regulator for they don't last forever . Can you feel the injectors knock .

 

Ok. I'll check that tomorrow too. Thanks.

 

Edited previous post

 

I can try that pretty easy. I've still got the old regulator so if I screwit up it doesn't matter. I didn't feel the injectors for knock but I tookthe fuel rail loose when I replaced them all and they were all working before I assembled it all back together.

 

For the injectors there are some checks for the one single possible corrupted injector power wire ( Black Light Green ) at the ECU Black 24 and Red 17 as it taps into the Injectors , EVAP valve , Mass Air Flow , Canister Close valve , EGR valve , and the ECU Controlled Relay later in the morning that may have all your injectors under responding to the ECU commanded 6 grounds . Also look for and clean ECU case ground .

 

I tried everything you suggested and I think I found the problem. Put a quart of oil between all cylinders and let it sit a day. Cranked up, ran and smoked like a coal train for about 10 seconds then quit. Did this 3 times with same result. Rings are stuck or shot. Either way the motor has to be redone. I think I'm just going to drop a ls in it and call it good. It already has a480le tranny in it. Thanks for the help

 

You're going in a positive direction , Lets split this into 3 different items

1. Piston Rings , With the use of a different product you may be able to improve the seal for better compression . If you take a circle and look at it's circumference and the physical structure of a piston ring the ring has 2 important components , the interface of the surface against the cylinder wall seal and the other being the overlapping 3 layer slides of the ring as it is loose and expands along the Circumference direction in order to expand and grow out to radially and press against the cylinder walls . With the use of a oil treatment product containing Toluene ( Rislone or similar oil treatment product a bolt loosening product would be an xstream product ) you can get the Circumference sliding going better without a ring job . You would have to use the same procedure of plugs back in and turn over to force the product into the area of interest and let is soak . After you get the engine going again after 10 years I recommend the use of the same product in the oil system as it continues to free up " stuck " engine components including the rings from the bottom side . I have used Rislone for years and it works .

2. Fuel Delivery , The # 1 fuel pump ( # 2 dependent on higher RPM signal to the ECU ) will give the fuel rail it's initial charge before turning back off and will not give the constant " on " as it sees engine rotation by the crankshaft position sensor . This may also explain your engine stall out after 10 seconds , There is a way to power the pump on constantly in the key on position for mine was as a repair wired this way before back to factory configuration .

3. You have somewhat verified ignition as it stays lit for a while but may not be 100 %

Some others may have some better ideas for you before a engine removal or ring job .

 

I appreciate the information. I'm probably going to just pull the motor and go thru it. I might as well fix it right the first time and be done with it. I know it's internal now. I got a compression tester and none of the cylinders had more than 45 psi. I was thinking about motor swap but I really don't want to get that involved with this. Thanks for the help.

 

If you do a rebuild, I'd like to see pictures ?

 

Quite like my story with Rose, my XJR, which sat for three and half years - water in fuel tank; water in fuel rail, clogged injectors, stuck engine....in short, been there. Soaking the engine with oil, adding oil in fuel and clearing fuel system of water, and knocking and moving the engine and sorting out all other ignition and fuel system issues eventually fired up the engine. An engine that has been sitting for ten years has many more challenges. Might be more practical looking for a good used engine instead.