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1997 X300 Wiper Motor Fail & Body Processor Module Power Drain & other electrical
Wiper motor not operating but I can hear motor noise when ignition on/switch on/engine off. Coincidence that it stopped working when fluid empty warning came on?
Separately I have a parasitic drain (+/- 170mA). When I pull the BPM fuse amp draw drops to +/- 50 mA. Wondering if it's related to wiper motor?
Can someone point me to on car testing of the wiper motor?
Any input on how to know if the BPM is functional would also be appreciated.
The interior lights work. I also have some issues with rear door solenoids/key fob locking & unlocking not functioning consistently even with new batteries, but I don't believe that could be related. The dash security armed light does not come on.
I have a Power Probe & DVM for testing.
Thanks!
When you pull the key out of the barrel this makes a linier switch from pin 4 to 5 to start a security countdown process until the car goes to sleep
One of the count down steps is the seat and steering column retract to exit the vehicle , the security lock control module must have position sensors agreements in the items that they are retracted
You can turn off this feature by rotating the column switch from auto to off and address it later
The ignition switch itself can get stuck as well to be freed up
The key barrel and ignition switch are separate
The wiper has 2 relays that can be removed to address the system later
When you pull the key out of the barrel this makes a linier switch from pin 4 to 5 to start a security countdown process until the car goes to sleep
One of the count down steps is the seat and steering column retract to exit the vehicle , the security lock control module must have position sensors agreements in the items that they are retracted The system arms correctly when I use the key to lock the doors. Tested by opening the trunk to sound alarm. Key fob seems to work intermittently, despite new batteries, when very close to car. No blinking light on dash.
You can turn off this feature by rotating the column switch from auto to off and address it later It is turned off as the tilt does not work.
The ignition switch itself can get stuck as well to be freed up Works fine
The key barrel and ignition switch are separate ??
The wiper has 2 relays that can be removed to address the system later Understood. I can hear the wiper motor buzzing at 2 speeds when I turn on the ignition and the wipers. But nothing moving - retaining nut tight.. Internal motor issue? Is the only solution a used replacement?
See page 17
X300 1996 LWB.pdf (jagrepair.com) Aware of the relay setup
The sleep mode of the SLCM after the trunk is closed is 20 milliamps and this takes a couple of minutes to get there I left the door locks open and the battery attached (I have a cut off switch on it) and after an hour the mA draw was +/-158 mA and the battery was drained to 11.53 V. It's a good AGM battery too.
The SLCM and BPM can be reset to zero state by a " hard reset " which involves more than removing the battery positive terminal post What does this achieve and how do you do it? I cannot find anything about the BPM in any of the manuals/CDs I have. NADA. Pull the BPM fuse and the draw is +/- 50 mA.after 5 minutes.
The Hard Reset is taking both battery cable terminals off the battery and together with a tie wrap holding / contacting them together ( or a battery jumper cable )
This drains the items in the 2 modules returning the logic steps to zero if you had something hang up or just a hiccup ( there are many relays and fuses involved )
Place a shop towel over the battery post
The longer the better , like overnight
Your US model does not have theft protection in the stereo head so no concern like other world region models
This will not affect engine regulation like some cars
The wiper motor has brushes and a capacitor that can be changed but a easier thing to check is the park switch in the gearbox
Your articulating arms under the large black rectangle box / cover can also be dry of pivot bearing grease
on the bottom of the black cover there are 3 clips that are probably rusted so place some grease on them to let soak in to free up
A hooked cot hanger can reach under there to pull the clips , even a slide hammer arrangement
More on your findings later tonight
the ignition switch butts up against the inside end of the key barrel and just the switch can be replaced but no need to remove to check it at the connector
Following will be pics of your North American version security system
There have been reports of the door lock assemblies with the door lock switches mechanically binding and the connectors down the line having corrosion
Brendan McPhillips has some experience with this with pics
You can meter these switches at the SLCM located in the trunk by the fuel filler hose fwd of the cars left trunk hinge , it has 4 square connectors on it with many wires
there have been cases where the wires in the car's right trunk hinge arm underneath plastic cover wires wear through the wire insulation, the trunk lock position switch wire goes through the right hinge arm
The SLCM and BPM are one of those things you disconnect and reconnect with the positive battery cable lifted
There have been reports of the door lock assemblies with the door lock switches mechanically binding and the connectors down the line having corrosion
Brendan McPhillips has some experience with this with pics
You can meter these switches at the SLCM located in the trunk by the fuel filler hose fwd of the cars left trunk hinge , it has 4 square connectors on it with many wires
there have been cases where the wires in the car's right trunk hinge arm underneath plastic cover wires wear through the wire insulation, the trunk lock position switch wire goes through the right hinge arm
The SLCM and BPM are one of those things you disconnect and reconnect with the positive battery cable lifted
Rain today and tomorrow so I won't get much if anything done.
The behavior of the locks is as follows:
1. Key fob only works up close and intermittently despite new batteries. ? Key Fob failure or RF system?
2. When I use the key to open and close the door or the internal door lock switch, the door locks work, except the rear drivers side which sticks.
I'll try to find the Brendan McPhillips stuff.
Regarding the wiper - I'm going to check the voltages on the Red (Fast) and Blue (Slow) wires when stalk is in each of the 3 positions (Park/Slow/Fast). I know the grounds are good.
The single door lock relay is shared by all 4 doors so it is getting the command from the SLCM and the relay is responding for the other 3 doors
This points to the door lock assembly but the easier thing to try is if the relay has degraded to the point of good enough for 3 doors but not the 4th
The relays don't really have a swapping option as those tiny peanut relays are only used in this area of the 2 healboards
but you may see one of the same part # Thanks for the TSB. I confirmed earlier today that my system is 433Mhz. It ties up with my DBC11512 Remote, which shows red and green when buttons depressed and my later Vin.788nnn. www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1997.pdf Co-Incidentally I located a copy of this on my HD. Duh!
I do think there is an issue with the rear passenger actuator as I cannot move it manually, although it has worked periodically with the key.
Separately - I tried to re-program the key fob I have, using the instructions in the "How-To" for the '96 model. Nothing for '97. Are they different for the 433 Mhz system?
"Door and trunk open 5 depressions of the valet switch etc." I heard no sound/chirp.
Also - can I remove the fuse to the Security system in the trunk? I took a quick look in the dark. It seems to have a retainer over it. I'd like to see if that eliminates the parasitic drain.
Mine is a 315 hz system but I did pick up a 433 marked FOB for 3 dollars from a X300 that should still have the 433 hz SLCM still installed at the salvage yard
Mine is a 315 hz system but I did pick up a 433 marked FOB for 3 dollars from a X300 that should still have the 433 hz SLCM still installed at the salvage yard
Getting back on track after some delays - weather etc.
1. Battery - Mine was essentially EOL after 4 years. I've installed a new 4 yr Everstart AGM 900 CCA. Same as the one I replaced. Tested perfect with my new Topdon BT-200
2. Security module is LNA2600CC/009. I still need to do voltage tests.
3. Wiper Motor.- I think its toast. I'm going to replace temporarily with the one out of my XJ40 which is also laid up. I see a seller on Ebay who sells "renewed" ones. I'll bench test current one first.
Last edited by 2manycats; Dec 22, 2022 at 10:51 AM.
Reason: Images not uploading correctly
The Hard Reset is taking both battery cable terminals off the battery and together with a tie wrap holding / contacting them together ( or a battery jumper cable )
This drains the items in the 2 modules returning the logic steps to zero if you had something hang up or just a hiccup ( there are many relays and fuses involved )
Place a shop towel over the battery post
The longer the better , like overnight
Your US model does not have theft protection in the stereo head so no concern like other world region models
This will not affect engine regulation like some cars
The wiper motor has brushes and a capacitor that can be changed but a easier thing to check is the park switch in the gearbox
Your articulating arms under the large black rectangle box / cover can also be dry of pivot bearing grease
on the bottom of the black cover there are 3 clips that are probably rusted so place some grease on them to let soak in to free up
A hooked cot hanger can reach under there to pull the clips , even a slide hammer arrangement
More on your findings later tonight
the ignition switch butts up against the inside end of the key barrel and just the switch can be replaced but no need to remove to check it at the connector
Following will be pics of your North American version security system
More errands
Ok. - back on this after cold weather delay.
I'm focused on the wiper motor first to get the car running with new battery.
I've done some voltage testing after removing the wiper motor electrical connector and here's what I'm seeing on the input side, using my power probe to read voltage and confirm grounds.
Switch positions (with Engine running)
----------------------------------------------Switch Off------------------------------- Slow Mode -------------- Fast Mode
Park RY input wire from BPM -------13v ---------------------------------------------13v------------------------- 13v
Black Grounds-------------------------- Ground-------------------------------------- Ground--------------------- Ground
Red (Fast) ------------------------------- Nothing ------------------------------------Nothing -----------------------14.3V
Blue (Slow) -------------------------------Ground -------------------------------------14.3V------------------------ Ground
These reading seem strange.
I'd like to understand how the voltages work related to the park switch.
Also I'd like to know how to test the motor in situ.Can I just apply voltage to the Red input and ground the 2 black wires and ignore the park voltage input or does that have to be present also?
1997 X300 Wiper Motor Fail & Body Processor Module Power Drain & other electrical
