Hi All,

I am new to the Jaguar scene, been a mustang man just about all my life and decided to try something different. Right now, I'm kind of missing my mustang. Hope I didn’t buy a money pit… I've only had it for two weeks now and have been able to drive it for 4 days.

Here is what I bought:
A 96 XJ6, with 37K original miles, in mint condition. For $3000. I am the second owner of the vehicle and the first kept it garaged. The inside and out are immaculate, and it rides like a dream! The first owner was an older lady who hardly used it, realized this, and wanted to get rid of it.


Here’s my problem:
At any given time the car just dies. Sometimes it will start right away and sometimes it won’t. The check engine light and the Transmission limp mode light illuminate, but not all the time. So far the only codes it’s thrown are the P1775 and P0727. Sometimes the car will run just fine for hours, other times it dies multiple times in a short period of time

Here’s what I did:

• Scoured the Internet \ Forums (That’s how I found this site)

• Replaced the Crank sensor

• Checked the battery (O’Rielly checked it)

• Checked the Idle Air Bypass Valve. (Not stuck from carbon, closes all the way, moves freely)

• Disconnected and reconnected TPS. (Just because)

• Connected a scanner that allows real time data reading. (Figured I might be able to see something)

• Drove the car (Hoping to see something obvious)

• Replaced fuel pump relay (hoping it would be that simple)

Here’s what I noticed:

• When the car dies both fuel systems 1 and 2 are open. When the car is running both are closed unless I put my foot into it. I don’t know what the scanner means when it says open.. I am guessing it means the circuit, but not sure. Any enlightenment is greatly appreciated.

• When the engine dies my scanner displays Link Error and tries to reconnect to the computer.

• No dash lights come on except the battery and sometimes the trans and check eng light.

• When I try to start it, it just cranks most of the time. Sometimes it will start right up but be in limp mode.

• When cranking, I get movement on the tach. 200 to 300 RPM.

Any ideas? I need this car to work, it is my main mode of transportation..

Thanks!

RS

 

First, welcome, and what a deal.... 37k miles for $3000!

Second, it seems interesting that your scanner loses link when the car dies. I don't know for certain if that is a useful clue as it may depend on the scanner, but I'd think it would maintain connection. So I wonder if that indicates a power problem or something amiss with the ECU? Others may clue in on this and offer a more definitive opinion.

I'm sure we can help you sort it out though! I doubt it is anything catastrophic.

.

 

Thanks Al,

When I tell the scanner to try again it makes a connection and will read the live data, even with the engine off. When the car dies it's just like I turned the key off, but just the battery light comes on.
Thanks for the quick input!

 

Post some photos

.

 

I really want to get this car fixed. It's y introduction to the Jaguar family and I want it to be a good one..

 

Looks like a great car, fantastic color.

BTW, keep an eye out for a 2003 (actual, or equiv replacement) used cup holder with the updated steel hinges and you can fix your broken one with the plastic pivot points. New improved ones are available too, but they are pricey. Used ones pop up on eBay pretty regularly.



.

 

ANy ideas on how I might go about troubleshooting the issue I'm having? Hate having the wife bring me to and from work..

What would cause those codes to be thrown, are they generic or can they be translated into something useful?

How can I tell if its a power thing or ECU thing?

Thanks

 

Ray,
The error codes you mention often arrive as a pair, but unfortunately are not particularly helpful in tracking down the specific fault. (That said, have you tried clearing them? Do they reappear?)
Reading threads on this forum, I am struck by how often problems on the X300 come down to Crankshaft position sensors, coil packs, and battery condition, even although the symptoms often bear no obvious or logical connection!
You mention that you have already replaced the crankshaft position sensor, so lets rule that out for now. Given your cars amazingly low mileage, I would be wondering about the battery; I know you have had it checked, but the experiences of others suggest that the battery needs to be at least 99.99% perfect for trouble free running. If it has been in the hitherto relatively little used car for any length of time, it might be worth trying a new one. Coil pack snags are often accompanied by the "christmas tree" effect where pretty much all the warning lights come on, and rough running/ misfires, and it doesn't sound as if you have this particular problem at the moment.
It might be worth eliminating the battery as a possible culprit as a next step, before going on to check connections, and ECU moisture .

 

Hi Countyjag,
Yes I have cleared the codes and they reappear. I checked the ECU connections and they are dry as a bone and look brand new. That's part of the problem I am having, every thing looks brand new so I am having a hard time wrapping my head around the fact that I am having this issue.

One thing I did notice is the alternator gauge fluctuates.. meaning some times it stays steady at 13.5 and other times it can go as high as 15 and as low as 11 while driving. I don't notice any unusual performance of the vehicle while it does this, the car runs extremely smooth.

Is there a way I can have the ECU checked without having to bring he car in?

Thanks for the help

 

Ray,


Check your ECM relay. You have 3 relays behind the right headlights. Remove the washer fluid shroud and you'll see the relays and they're all the same type relay. The outer-most is the ECM, the inner-most is the AC clutch relay. If your AC is working fine then the AC clutch relay is a known working one. Just swap the inner relay with the outer one. Check to see if your stalling problems go away and your AC quits working. If so, you have your answer.


I had this problem a couple of years ago and read about this solution on this forum and solved the problem by buying a $19 relay.


Give it a try.

 

Thanks GaterJoe! I will do that tonight. You say there are 3 of them, and the ECM is the outer one.. outer one to the left or right if I'm facing the passenger side fender looking at the relays?

Going to bring it to a shop Wednesday if I cant fix it by then. This is my daily driver and I need it to work.

Appreciate the help!

 

If you're facing the passenger fender then it's the closest of the 3 to you. They are lined up parallel to the front of the car. Good luck.

 

Thanks, I will try it tonight and post when I know the results. How dependable has your car been? Did I make a poor choice for a daily driver?

 

My car has been very reliable, and no, for the price you paid for your car and condition it's in I'd say you did not make a mistake. Your car should be a good daily driver when sorted. Most of the issues with the X300's are posted on this forum, so this forum will help you keep your car on the road.

 

Good, I was hoping to hear that. I will let you now what happens with the relays.

 

Ok.. So I swapped the relays last night and drove the car to work. It didn't stall!! I did notice however, and I'm guessing the name, the re-circulation button (the one right next to the fan button) keeps going on and off. Is this part of the AC system that the relay would control?

Thanks for all the help!!

 

Yes, the re-circulation button is part of the climate control system. When the interior calls for either extreme heating or cooling the system will automatically recirculate the cabin air. The button can either choose that option or shut it off.
The fact that it is flashing may indicate a relay failure. You may have found the problem.

 

Perfect! I will post back over the next couple days and keep everyone updated.
Thanks again for all your help, this is the best forum I have ever encountered, keep up the great work! I look forward to being a contributing member one day!

 

Ok, I believe it's fixed! It hasn't died since I swapped the AC and ECU relay and now the recirculation function sporadically cuts out. Much better than the engine

Thanks to all who helped and especially GaterJoe and RJ237!!!

Ray

 

Welcome to JF Ray, congrats on your new Jag. Great to see its running well so far. Much sound advice given above.

Your car can be a very reliable daily driver. Most on the forums do. But because of its age and newness to you, it will probably take some sorting out as you have already begun.

Everywhere you see a relay: pull it, make sure the contacts are clean and its not burned or melted. Of course this is not a guarantee, but assuring good connection is a start. There are many relays around the car, probably 25 or so!

Unless you know of recent replacement, get new spark plugs in it. Champion RC12YC is all you need. Walmart has them (the only part to be found there that can be used on our cars!). Ok maybe a wiper blade too. Random stalling is sometimes directly attributed to old spark plugs.

Be careful of where you buy gas. Use "trusted" stations. There have been reports of stalling and hard restarting that likely were due to gas contaminated with water.

That's enough doom and gloom for now! Don't worry, most needs can be taken care of as time permits and often at little cost. So get on the road and enjoy the cruise!!